Pin box hits bed rail

Yes, you could move springs to top of axle, but that will make the trailer quite a bit taller. It would help to have a pic of the pin box, where it may make contact. In some cases, there is room to trim pin box, in an upward angle, so as to allow more clearance. Some of them come angled, mine did.

Jerry

Some have taken sawzall to the back corners of the pin box mounts as I did to my 2005 Cardinal. Chris

Unless you have already checked, it is likely your axles are already under your springs. As noted above, I would look first at cutting off the lower rear corners of the pin box. A number have already done that as a solution.

You want at least 6" clearance between bed rail and 5vr overhang....more is better BUT you also want to tow level.

Flipping axles is usually 1st modification before doing any subframe mods

Moving leaf springs to top of axles will gain you 4"-6" depending on axle tube diameter and number of leaf springs

Old-Biscuit wrote:
You want at least 6" clearance between bed rail and 5vr overhang....more is better BUT you also want to tow level.

Flipping axles is usually 1st modification before doing any subframe mods

Moving leaf springs to top of axles will gain you 4"-6" depending on axle tube diameter and number of leaf springs

I could cut the pinbox but that would not level my 5th. I made arrangement for a shop to make adjustment. They have done many due to new high trucks! They will check suspension as some have room for adjustments, failing that they will flip the leaf springs, failing that they will raise suspension. I'll let you know which route they took..

Jhurk wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
You want at least 6" clearance between bed rail and 5vr overhang....more is better BUT you also want to tow level.

Flipping axles is usually 1st modification before doing any subframe mods

Moving leaf springs to top of axles will gain you 4"-6" depending on axle tube diameter and number of leaf springs

I could cut the pinbox but that would not level my 5th. I made arrangement for a shop to make adjustment. They have done many due to new high trucks! They will check suspension as some have room for adjustments, failing that they will flip the leaf springs, failing that they will raise suspension. I'll let you know which route they took..

IF they end up doing a subframe lift.......make sure that includes cross-member supports and bracing
This one is a 6" lift with 2" cross-member


And IF all that is needed is 2" lift......
Check out LCI Correct Track Kit
Aligns your axles AND adds 2" lift

Keep in mind that a lift is going to make a tall trailer even taller. Many 5ers are already several inches over 13' high to the top of the A/C and/or vent covers, so that could put you over 13'-6", and you will certainly need to be more careful about low underpasses. Not to mention a higher step up to the first entry step.

A picture would be great, but lacking one I will take a shot.
The back of the pin box hit the rails, because from the center of the pin to that back of the pin box is greater than half the width of the bed between the rails, that should be obvious, just stating.
The rub likely comes from the install of the Anderson Pin adapter. If you installed with the ball forward of the pin you added about 4" to the distance from the ball to the back of the pin box.
If you are lucky you can trial the back of the pin box.

As was just mentioned, the ball adapter hooked up to your pin box can make the effective length of your pin box either 4 inches longer if the adapter is installed so that the ball socket is forward of the pin, or it can make the effective length 4 inches shorter if the ball socket is positioned behind the pin. When I used the Andersen hitch I had to install it so that the ball socket was aft of the pin or my pin box would hit my bed rails. I had plenty of clearance by turning it around, but it slightly decreased my turning. I couldn't turn quite as sharp without risk of hitting the front of the trailer into the back window of the cab. This isn't an issue if you have a long bed truck.

Searching_Ut wrote:
As was just mentioned, the ball adapter hooked up to your pin box can make the effective length of your pin box either 4 inches longer if the adapter is installed so that the ball socket is forward of the pin, or it can make the effective length 4 inches shorter if the ball socket is positioned behind the pin. When I used the Andersen hitch I had to install it so that the ball socket was aft of the pin or my pin box would hit my bed rails. I had plenty of clearance by turning it around, but it slightly decreased my turning. I couldn't turn quite as sharp without risk of hitting the front of the trailer into the back window of the cab. This isn't an issue if you have a long bed truck.

You have the right solution to fix the pinbox hitting the bed rails now you just need to do one more thing that will take care of the trailer nose to cab colliding issue. Get the Curt 4in gooseball extension. It replaces your inbed flip ball with one that will have the ball 4in closer to the tailgate. Pivot point remains unchanged like you have it to solve the pin of issue. The Curt solves the Cab issue. This what I do and it works.