Please help me level my FW

[davisenvy]

I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 2500, Crew, 4x4, short bed, 285 tires pulling a Jayco Eagle HT 29.5bhds. I am using an Andersen Ultimate Hitch on my Gooseneck hitch with a Mor Ryde kingpin.
When in tow, the FW is about 6 in high in the front. When I measure the height of the Andersen Hitch vs the Andersen mount on the Kingpin (from the ground up) it is about 8 inches difference. I know the truck will squat and take some of this, but the king pin is adjusted all the way up, but it hits the fiberglass on the nose cone before I can reach the last or highest setting. I really don't want to do an axle flip because of the outside kitchen. Are there different kingpins that would work better? I do have airbags, but they are only at 7psi when loaded. Should I let the truck squat to help level the FW? Whats next? I do have pictures, but don't know how to post them.

[Bobandshawn]

davisenvy wrote:
Just got off the phone with Andersen and Mor Ryde. Andersen said the 3221 for the gooseneck flat bed truck "might work" and he seems to have done it one time before. This makes me a little nervous. Mor Ryde said they compensated for the rubber dampeners with the angle of the pin box so it is the same size/height as a static. Andersen also said they do not recommend dampening units with their hitch.

The MorRyde deal sounds funny as their video that shows how to install the hitch and king pin adapter has a MorRyde on the trailer!

[davisenvy]

Just got off the phone with Andersen and Mor Ryde. Andersen said the 3221 for the gooseneck flat bed truck "might work" and he seems to have done it one time before. This makes me a little nervous. Mor Ryde said they compensated for the rubber dampeners with the angle of the pin box so it is the same size/height as a static. Andersen also said they do not recommend dampening units with their hitch.

[davisenvy]

It was 7 in high before I raised the Kingpin to the highest possible level. I am measuring from the bottom skirt on the FW front and back. I used a level when unhooked and this seemed to be a pretty constant place to measure from.

I really don't want to raise the FW because of the outside kitchen. This is why I'm going with the hitch/ pin area first.

The Andersen hitch is at 16.25 at the lowest setting. This combined with the pin at the highest setting gives me just over 8 inches clearance between FW and truck bed rails and just over 4 inches nose high.

I understand I may end up adjusting trailer suspension to get the rear up, but I want to get as much out of the front as I can.

The Andersen for the flat bed is a good option, but I'm waiting to talk to Mor Ryde to see if their kingpin is actually thicker than a static one. Also, Andersen doesn't recommend using a dampener in the Kingpin with their set up. If my theory is correct, this would get me another 3 inches down in the front.

[alexleblanc]

davisenvy wrote:
Very good information. Thanks for the post. I also read that Andersen does not recommend using a dampening kingpin with their set up. I am using the Mor Ryde king pin. I'm also wondering if the Mor Ryde is a bit lower than a static kingpin pushing the nose up even higher. I'm going to call Andersen and Mor Ryde when they open today.

When the guys at the dealer hooked up my current set up they stood back and said "it ain't the worst I've seen" and sent me home. It being my first FW I took their word for it. It turned out to be close to 7 in nose high. I will also be contacting them today. I feel they sold me a set up that is not compatible with my truck FW combo.

where is that 7" measurement taken?

if you can get 1.5-2" lift from suspension and tires and another 1-2" lowering of the pin with your hitch setup you would be darn near level.

how tall is that Anderson hitch? I know that some hitches are adjustable height, mine has multiple holes to do just that and I needed to go to the lowest setting at the time so I was glad it could be adjusted.

[davisenvy]

Very good information. Thanks for the post. I also read that Andersen does not recommend using a dampening kingpin with their set up. I am using the Mor Ryde king pin. I'm also wondering if the Mor Ryde is a bit lower than a static kingpin pushing the nose up even higher. I'm going to call Andersen and Mor Ryde when they open today.

When the guys at the dealer hooked up my current set up they stood back and said "it ain't the worst I've seen" and sent me home. It being my first FW I took their word for it. It turned out to be close to 7 in nose high. I will also be contacting them today. I feel they sold me a set up that is not compatible with my truck FW combo.

[otrfun]

davisenvy wrote:
I really don't want to flip my axles. I have an outside kitchen that is already chest high to wife. I have the Mor Ryde Kingpin and I'm thinking it adds about 3 inches to my nose high problem. Also, why don't the Andersen hitches go as low as fifth wheel hitches? It is 2 to 3 inches taller.
My bed to nose clearance is 8 inches so I really want the nose down. I have it narrowed to a regular FW hitch or do away with the Mor Ryde kingpin.

Posted this a few weeks ago. You may be able to use the Andersen Ultimate #3221 (aluminum) to solve your nose-high lift problem (assuming you have a gooseneck ball capability, of course):

Took timflood, hbillsmith and WTP-GC's suggestion and called Andersen yesterday. Andrew at Andersen said the Ultimate #3221 hitch (supposedly only compatible with flatbed trucks with a "recessed" gooseneck) can actually be configured to work with a standard pickup truck bed with a gooseneck capability. Apparently they have gooseneck adapters of varying lengths (that fit on the bottom of the Ultimate #3221) that can match different gooseneck ball heights (longest one fits the recessed, flatbed version, the shorter ones fit standard pickup beds). All they need is the measurement from the bed of the truck (from the highest rib section) to the top of the gooseneck ball (installed on the truck) to match up the proper adapter. Was also told with the Utimate #3221 mounted in the bed of the truck, the bottom support structures should ideally rest on top of a portion of the bed area that is directly supported by bed/frame contact. Otherwise, there is a chance heavy braking could dent/crease/bend the bed of the truck. Hoping to get some Ultimate #3221 dimensional info from Andersen today to verify whether the fore/aft bottom supports rest on top of the bed/frame contact areas on my '16 Ram 3500 short bed. Again, to reiterate, I need the #3221 because it sits 4" lower than the other Andersen Ultimate hitches. The #3221 is the only Andersen hitch that **may** get me 15" of hitch height (from the bed to the bottom of the trailer king pin assembly) that I need to obtain 6" of bed rail clearance and a reasonably level trailer. If I use the steel rail mount or #3220 Ultimate hitches my 5th wheel will sit approx. 4-5 inches nose high (with 10" of bed rail clearance)---even when adjusted to their lowest position.

[IdaD]

You may not be as low as I was. I had to lift both to level and to get decent bedrail clearance.

[davisenvy]

I really don't want to flip my axles. I have an outside kitchen that is already chest high to wife. I have the Mor Ryde Kingpin and I'm thinking it adds about 3 inches to my nose high problem. Also, why don't the Andersen hitches go as low as fifth wheel hitches? It is 2 to 3 inches taller.
My bed to nose clearance is 8 inches so I really want the nose down. I have it narrowed to a regular FW hitch or do away with the Mor Ryde kingpin.

[IdaD]

I had to axle flip mine. The kits are about $45 per axle on etrailer and it took me an easy afternoon to do the job. I got about 6 inches of lift and my fifth wheel is nearly level now with it on the middle setting of my rail mount Andersen. Less than an inch off front to back.

[davisenvy]

I have been looking at traditional fifth wheel hitches and they seem to be around 2 in shorter than the andersen hitch. Would 2 in be worth switching hitches.


I just found a hole second hole in the bracket my leaf springs are bolted to. The hole is below the one where the leaf springs are mounted. Will it raise my FW by putting the leaf springs in the bottom hole?

[alexleblanc]

You may be able to pick up an inch of lift depending on what hole your springs are using on the spring hangers ( you will want to get something like the mor ryde braces afterwards ) and another inch or inch and a half of lift from tires and wheel. Combine that with a different hitch that allows you to bring it down another 1-2 inches and you're darn near level. I just went through this although it was only 2-3" nose high.

[davisenvy]

From what I've calculated, the tires only add just over an inch in height. I'll call Anderson on Monday and report back what they say. Thanks for the responses.

[SDcampowneroper]

Artum Snowbird wrote:
With my existing truck I had to put a block under the boat wheel to get it on the ball when I had the airbags at their lowest setting. After I removed the airbags completely, the back of the truck dropped enough to put the tongue on without the block.

In your case, are your tires oversized? Can you put 16 inch wheels, or bigger than you have on the trailer? Sounds a bit drastic, but it's what you want to do. Price out the options.

5 " clearance is normally adequate between truck bed and overhead. Your oversized tires and wheels on the truck are adding to the trouble, so if you want to keep your truck height the way it is, you'll have to lift the trailer. If you do that then weld in extra xmembers between the spring hangers to counter the lateral loads.
It boils down to lower the truck or hitch , or raise the trailer. Whats your choice?

[garyp4951]

My Eagle HT came with the springs over the axles, but I still had to do a lift.