Power cord connections melting

[Thumbs]

I have been having problems with my connections getting hot and melting the plastic plugs. This mostly happens at my 50 amp to 30 amp pigtail going into the camper. I have replace the power cord connectors but they just seem to do the same thing. I check my voltage and its over 110 V. I am careful not to over load the line. Only one thing at a time. For example if the air is on the water heater and microwave are off. And visa versa with the other appliances. I have changed out the 30 amp cord female plug with Campco connectors. I am beginning to think the connections aren not tight and there must be some arcing going on and creating the heat. The female 50 amp connector from the pigtail to the camper is fine and never has a problem. Its just the connection from the pigtail to the 30 amp cord that has the problem.

Has anyone else had this problem and what did you do to correct it? I am thinking put a male twist on 30 amp on the pigtail and a female twist on on the power cord to insure and tight connection. Ocationaly I have to use two 30 amp cords together to get the length I need but where that conection is made I have no problems.

thanks for the help

[Thumbs]

Yes I suspect the connectors are low quality and are not fitting tightly together.

Yes checked the voltage in the caller. When the air comes on it drops but I always keep it in the "green" which is about 112volts at least.

Yes the voltage varies through out the day. In the mornings it's higher before people put on their air conditioners. It drops during the day but again I don't let it go below 112volts. When the air comes on the voltage drops but again not below 112volts. Even during the running it stays higher.

Thats for sure. I know I am up there but I dont believe I am to the point of burning the plugs caused by amp draw. Bad connections probably. Maybe bad connections and amps. I would like to try better connections. I have had more of a problem using the Camco connectors than the original molded in connectors.

[valhalla360]

dougrainer wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
Thumbs,

For 50 amps the continuous rating is only 40 (on each leg)

For 30 amps the continous rating is 24 amps.

110 is safe--but low, assuming that is voltage under load. Consider getting an autoformer to correct the voltage.

Mine is set to boost voltage to 124. It cuts in at about 115 volts. No more burned plugs.

I have seen you quote this before. I have 43 years as a RV tech, the FIRST almost 24 years when everything was 30 amp and NO 50 amp RV's. I don't know where you get your mis info. RV electrical systems have their OWN national electrical rating and at no time in my 43 years have I ever hear of the 24 amps for 30 and the 40 amps for 50 amp service. Please post the reference for what you state. RV 30 amp is designed up to 30 amps(3600 watts) of service. 50 amp is for 100 amps(12000 watts). NO DERATING at all. Doug

I used to work with a group of Master Electricians. We got onto the subject one day and they were all unanimous that 30amps is the peak load and continuous would be 80%.

I don't have a copy of the code book handy but I know people who push the limits and they tend to get burnt up plugs.

Maybe they were wrong and you are right but I'll take the option that doesn't burn up my plugs.

To the OP:

It might simply be a loose or corroded connection creating the heat.

Were you able to put an amp-meter on to see what it is actually pulling. You mentioned no hot water heater or microwave but what about other loads like the battery charger. If voltage is low amperage on motors will be higher (110v is in spec but towards the low end). The air/con might be pulling 15amps with low voltage. The battery charger might be pulling another 7-9amps depending on the size. A few misc items (tv, phone charges, etc...) and you might be bumping up against 30amps for longer durations. Now you are taking what are often marginal installations and pushing them till something fails.

How were you verifying the voltage? Put a meter on the plug and see 110v and when you apply a big load like the air/con, voltage may be drug down a few volts. Also, it will likely change based on conditions. Early morning when it's still cool, the voltage is often strong but on a hot day, mid afternoon, it's not uncommon for voltage to drop 8-10v...or more if the park system is marginal.

It also may be a combination effect. A marginal connection between plug & outlet might not be an issue when puling 3-4amps but when pushing to the limits, it can be.

[Thumbs]

Ha Well the reason for the dog bone is I never thought of eliminating it. LOL Seriously though the dog bone i use has a 90* angle so there is less pressure on the trailer 50 amp connection. Probably doesn't make any difference in reality. It was just my thought. There are a ton of them out there without it.

The problem still exists at the 30 amp side of the cord. If the problem is loose connectors then the connector to the dogbone will burn the new cable. Or potentially. Idono

[time2roll]

Thumbs wrote:
Oh ok Yeah the fewer connections the better. What I was thinking was to take the male off the Dog bone and replace it with a male twist lock. Take the female off the power cord and replace it with a female twist lock.

That works. But why have the dogbone?
Just put the right connector on the cord and put it right into the RV. Like a big long dogbone.

[Thumbs]

time2roll wrote:

Thumbs wrote:
Why not twist or locking connectors? I ask out of ignorance. If I put a male on the dog bone adaptor to the camper and a female on the supply cord I would think that would make a tighter connection rather than just pushing in a friction connection. I realize the limiting factor to the twist or locking connectors. If I put the locking connector on the supply cord and male on the dog bone that would be the only cable I could use unless I replace the other cables in the same manner. What leans me to the locking connectors is the one on the camper is like new and the 50 amp female at that connection is also like new. I was attributing it to a tighter connection because of the locking ability. Idono

Twist lock is fine but nothing off the shelf in the RV world is compatible.

Best to have a cord direct from the RV to the pedestal. No adapters. See my amazon link above.

If you go twistlock I recommend Hubbell brand.

Oh ok Yeah the fewer connections the better. What I was thinking was to take the male off the Dog bone and replace it with a male twist lock. Take the female off the power cord and replace it with a female twist lock.

[time2roll]

Thumbs wrote:
Why not twist or locking connectors? I ask out of ignorance. If I put a male on the dog bone adaptor to the camper and a female on the supply cord I would think that would make a tighter connection rather than just pushing in a friction connection. I realize the limiting factor to the twist or locking connectors. If I put the locking connector on the supply cord and male on the dog bone that would be the only cable I could use unless I replace the other cables in the same manner. What leans me to the locking connectors is the one on the camper is like new and the 50 amp female at that connection is also like new. I was attributing it to a tighter connection because of the locking ability. Idono

Twist lock is fine but nothing off the shelf in the RV world is compatible.

Best to have a cord direct from the RV to the pedestal. No adapters. See my amazon link above.

If you go twistlock I recommend Hubbell brand.

[Thumbs]

BB_TX wrote:
If you have quality 30 amp cables and adapters with no poor connections and you are connected to a 30 amp circuit breaker protected receptacle then the connections should not over heat even pulling 30 amps. Even if you have a longer cable. A longer cable can cause a voltage drop, but the current cannot go above the 30 amp breaker, and the supposed cable and adapter rating. And current is what causes overheating, not voltage.

The overheated plug and/or receptacle indicates resistance in one or both of those, either poor contact, poor wiring connections, or possibly cable/adapter not meeting stated rating.

I carried a 25’ 30 amp cable with a 30 amp male plug and a 50 amp female connector for the trailer end (30 to 50 adapter cable) to avoid having to use the dogbone adapter.

Yes it is the current not the voltage. This indicates the connectors are faulty. At least its a good chance. Like you say, unless the breaker at the supply box is faulty, the amperage is limited by the breaker. So that being true than either the cables are bad or the connectors are of poor quality. This problem has happened on a couple of cables. Either the cables are all faulty or the connectors.

Ok that makes sense eliminating the one connector that is giving me the problems. I will have to check again but the other connectors seem fine just the one at the dog bone continually goes bad. Hummmm

[Thumbs]

time2roll wrote:

Thumbs wrote:
the question is who makes good connectors|?. I really don't think the Camco connectors are the way to go.

The other question is does it make any sense to put twist on connectors on the female end of the cord and the male end of the pigtail. The male end of the camper 50amp connector is in perfect condition and its a twist on. Maybe that is the way to go.

I linked the progressive connectors earlier. I believe these are superior.

I would not go twist lock.

Do you have a removable 50 amp cord? If so consider a Marinco removable 30 amp cord that will connect to the 50 amp socket on the RV.

https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-Park-Power-3050PA-25-Male-50A/dp/B07BDYF4HD

Less bulk too when only 30amp is available.

Sorry I missed that link before. Why not twist or locking connectors? I ask out of ignorance. If I put a male on the dog bone adaptor to the camper and a female on the supply cord I would think that would make a tighter connection rather than just pushing in a friction connection. I realize the limiting factor to the twist or locking connectors. If I put the locking connector on the supply cord and male on the dog bone that would be the only cable I could use unless I replace the other cables in the same manner. What leans me to the locking connectors is the one on the camper is like new and the 50 amp female at that connection is also like new. I was attributing it to a tighter connection because of the locking ability. Idono

[BB_TX]

If you have quality 30 amp cables and adapters with no poor connections and you are connected to a 30 amp circuit breaker protected receptacle then the connections should not over heat even pulling 30 amps. Even if you have a longer cable. A longer cable can cause a voltage drop, but the current cannot go above the 30 amp breaker, and the supposed cable and adapter rating. And current is what causes overheating, not voltage.

The overheated plug and/or receptacle indicates resistance in one or both of those, either poor contact, poor wiring connections, or possibly cable/adapter not meeting stated rating.

I carried a 25’ 30 amp cable with a 30 amp male plug and a 50 amp female connector for the trailer end (30 to 50 adapter cable) to avoid having to use the dogbone adapter.

[time2roll]

Thumbs wrote:
the question is who makes good connectors|?. I really don't think the Camco connectors are the way to go.

The other question is does it make any sense to put twist on connectors on the female end of the cord and the male end of the pigtail. The male end of the camper 50amp connector is in perfect condition and its a twist on. Maybe that is the way to go.

I linked the progressive connectors earlier. I believe these are superior.

I would not go twist lock.

Do you have a removable 50 amp cord? If so consider a Marinco removable 30 amp cord that will connect to the 50 amp socket on the RV.

https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-Park-Power-3050PA-25-Male-50A/dp/B07BDYF4HD

Less bulk too when only 30amp is available.

[pianotuna]

Use some deoxit on what ever you get.

https://www.amazon.ca/DeoxIT-25cc-Precision-Dispenser-100/dp/B0000YH6F8/ref=sr_1_9?gclid=Cj0KCQjwidS...

[ford_truck_guy]

Thumbs wrote:

time2roll wrote:
Yes should easily run the fridge and air continuous without issues. A bad battery might run up the power from the converter but you would soon know that.

The connectors are bad.

Yep thats what Im goin with. LOL Anyway, as we progress down this rabbit hole the question is who makes good connectors|?. I really don't think the Camco are the way to go.

The other question is does it make any sense to put twist on connectors on the female end of the cord and the male end of the pigtail. The male end of the camper 50amp connector is in perfect condition and its a twist on. Maybe that is the way to go.

Progressive Industries makes good products -

Progressive Ind


Progressive Ind.

[Thumbs]

time2roll wrote:
Yes should easily run the fridge and air continuous without issues. A bad battery might run up the power from the converter but you would soon know that.

The connectors are bad.

Not saying the batteries are new. They have been in there a couple of years but they will hold a charge for a few days at least while dry camping so I think they are good. This burning problem as been haunting for for a while but is more pronounced after I changed out the connectors with the cameo. I can burn them up in a few days in the summer.
Yep thats what Im goin with. LOL Anyway, as we progress down this rabbit hole the question is who makes good connectors|?. I really don't think the Camco connectors are the way to go.

The other question is does it make any sense to put twist on connectors on the female end of the cord and the male end of the pigtail. The male end of the camper 50amp connector is in perfect condition and its a twist on. Maybe that is the way to go.

[time2roll]

Yes should easily run the fridge and air continuous without issues. A bad battery might run up the power from the converter but you would soon know that.

The connectors are bad.