problems with dump tank handles

Sometimes it can be the cables and sometimes the valves themselves. Fixing the problem will probably mean exposing the valves and the cables by dropping some of the belly wrap. Look for sharp turns in the cables that is one of the biggest causes of hard to operate valves. The cables can be usually rerouted to form a straighter line sometimes it means cutting the cable to remove some of the slack that is coiled up. When the valves are exposed disconnect the cable and try pulling the cable is it still hard then it is probably the cable causing the problem. Most valves have 4 bolts with nuts holding the two halves together and they are too tight squeezing the inside rubber seals to put excess pressure on the sliding gate. Try manually moving the valve may need a pair of pliers or vice grips on the shaft that the cable was fastened too. If the valve moves real hard try backing the nuts off just slightly and try again. If you have loosened the nuts and the valve now works OK you should put some water in the tank to make sure the valve does not leak before closing the belly wrap back up.

I have always ridden dirt bikes and found this gadget to be handy for cables.

Easy cable lube

I just recently replaced my cable operated valves with Barker electric operators, no more problems. The Barkers were only $30 more than the cables.

As stated, the problem could be either valves, or cables. I had a ckass C with similar problems, and I ewplaced the valve. To me, the problrm, is getting the valve correctly installed, from the factory that valve was a little off, which made it sticky, and it eventually fail. Taking the time to align it correctly and it was as smooth as silk. Ny $0.02 would be check the valve, you could have a similar situation.

I had the same problem with my 2013 Cruiser. A couple of weeks after having changed the black valve and cable with a new one, it happened again. Enough, so I swapped the valve and cable for an electric setup. The other thing I did was to add an extra valve just inboard of the dumping cap. I did this when the manual valve first started leaking. For the past few months, there have been no more black valve problems. Touch wood............

Coach-man wrote:
As stated, the problem could be either valves, or cables. I had a ckass C with similar problems, and I ewplaced the valve. To me, the problrm, is getting the valve correctly installed, from the factory that valve was a little off, which made it sticky, and it eventually fail. Taking the time to align it correctly and it was as smooth as silk. Ny $0.02 would be check the valve, you could have a similar situation.

x2

I found once the handle starts giving you trouble pulling in or out the valves are in need of replacing OR there is something stuck in them.

The blades are 'very' then. A small piece of toilet paper, etc, stuck on where they slide up and down will cause problems. I always check that before replacing the valve blade.

Drain your tanks and get a toilet brush or any brush with a long handle and open the main cover and then open the valve blade and take the brush and run it around the opening to clear out any debris that might be stuck where the blade slides. This sometimes will clear up the hard to push in valve handles.

Same problem with my 2012 Cruiser.

eHoefler wrote:
I just recently replaced my cable operated valves with Barker electric operators, no more problems. The Barkers were only $30 more than the cables.

thanks, I may look into the barker valve setup. All 3 of my handles are very hard to open.
Thanks for all the info.
Happy Trails !

Been there, done that.

If you are doing the work yourself, check the cables *first*.

You will have to access the valves no matter what you do, so it's
part of the project anyway.

You *may* find that the factory cable installation is (very) sloppy,
which -over time- may cause a kink in the cable. (I did).
The cable "run" on the black valve was very poorly designed - but
simple to correct (with a new cable and proper routing).

BTW - once a cable kinks, no amount of lubrication will *fix* it..:(

Disconnect the cable at both ends, the pull handle -and- at the valve.

Open and close the valve (at the valve) to see if it works freely.
If it doesn't - you *do* have a valve problem.

However, if the valve moves freely, you obviously have a *cable* problem - (which should also be readily apparent)
AND.... you can save a lot of time and effort by *NOT* replacing a valve that is just fine.

Another BTW - electric valves fail also...:(


~

I had problems with my dump tank handles. I have a 2010 34' Freedom Spirit by Dutchman.

When my unit was built it was the model series end, and they put parts that were laying around and out of date or damaged.:M

I had all handles replace under extended warranty and now they all pull smooth as silk.:)