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Pullrite Super Glide? or Reese manual?

roothoss1282
Explorer
Explorer
I have a 2015 F-250 6.2 short box or 6 3/4 and the prices I got to day were Super Glide and all the you need with it was $686 more than the Reese Glide manual hitch. Is it worth the money?? Also how often do you need to slide it back and are you normally in a place where its a nightmare to do it?? ( Like in traffic }
22 REPLIES 22

JIMNLIN
Explorer
Explorer
Also how often do you need to slide it back and are you normally in a place where its a nightmare to do it?? ( Like in traffic }

IMO your imagination is running away here. :).
I also own a 16K Reese manual square tube slider. Bought it new in '97 and it has been on two different trucks with around 310k total miles. I keep it lubed and maintained so it slides like a hot knife through butter at any angle.
I've been in all type of traffic situations and have never had to flip the arm to maneuver position while in traffic.

Let me ask this. I have a crew cab and when making a tight turn can you tell how close it is getting to the cab? I mean most of the time when making a turn the 5er is pretty close to the cab like just a couple of inches right? Do you have to worry when making most turns. If that is the case then its a no brainer.

Cab size doesn't enter into how close the trailer comes to the cab. What determines how close the trailer comes to a trucks cab is the distance from the back of the cab to the trucks rear axle or the CA dimension (cab to axle).
GM has the longest dimension and the most clearance. Lots of GM truck owners with the newer rounded/notched front corner profile trailers don't use any type of sliding hitch. A few GM owners bit into the you gotta' have a Superglide hype but after using their combos for a while they sold the Superglide to someone who needed it.

I seldom use the slide feature on my manual slider even with my old '97 5th wheel trailer with a very flat square corner profile. My hitch is located zero over the trucks rear axle. This allows the trailer pin to slide its full 10" behind the trucks rear axle. This allows for less steering input and quicker reaction by the trailer while backing in tight spots.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 two slides

mtofell1
Explorer
Explorer
Aside from the turning thing I needed to slide mine back when backing beside my house to keep the underside of the 5th from hitting the back corners of my truck. There is a bit of a crest at the curb and my slip goes down from the street. It's really not that severe but the distance back from the truck that the 5th's wheels are really make a large change in angle between the truck and 5th.

I've moved to a TT but am about to go back to another 5th and aside from any cab clearance issues I wouldn't be w/o a slider just in case I need it.

Me_Again
Explorer II
Explorer II
GraystoneHD wrote:
One thing to mention about the Superglide hitch is that if your truck is turned more than 10-15 degrees from the trailer, you will not be able to unhook the 5th wheel. The slider and pin box become one part, hence allowing it to slide back. If you are ever unhooking where you can't be pretty much straight with the trailer, forget it. That was the leading factor to me getting a B&W Patriot 18K manual slider. Hitch is extremely tight and has a full 12 inches of slide. From what I've read, B&W make some of the best hitches. My dealer gave me a Reese 16k manual slider as a package deal with my 5th wheel, took it back the next day in multiple pieces. I will never own another REESE product again. Piece of $#*!.


The alignment for unhooking and hooking up is what caused me to not go with an auto slider. I have the same Patriot 18K manual slider.

Chris
2021 F150 2.7 Ecoboost - Summer Home 2017 Bighorn 3575el. Can Am Spyder RT-L Chrome, Kawasaki KRX1000. Retired and enjoying it! RIP DW 07-05-2021

roothoss1282
Explorer
Explorer
Great stuff thank you for the comments. New to this and it all helps. Don't want to be anything but informed when we hit the road.

GraystoneHD
Explorer
Explorer
One thing to mention about the Superglide hitch is that if your truck is turned more than 10-15 degrees from the trailer, you will not be able to unhook the 5th wheel. The slider and pin box become one part, hence allowing it to slide back. If you are ever unhooking where you can't be pretty much straight with the trailer, forget it. That was the leading factor to me getting a B&W Patriot 18K manual slider. Hitch is extremely tight and has a full 12 inches of slide. From what I've read, B&W make some of the best hitches. My dealer gave me a Reese 16k manual slider as a package deal with my 5th wheel, took it back the next day in multiple pieces. I will never own another REESE product again. Piece of $#*!.

RollandB
Explorer
Explorer
I went from a manual slide to a Superglide and would not go back. I never released the manual, but it was worth the peace of mind of not having to worry. If I understand correct, you don't have a 5er yet. Keep an eye on Craigslist, I found mine there, had not been installed and coat me $500.
2013 Yukon

2021 Coachmen Spirit 1943RB

bbaker2001
Explorer
Explorer
x3
no worry
BB from California
2015 Ram 3500
2001 Cardinal
best friend is my wife ๐Ÿ™‚

Benjim
Explorer
Explorer
Colo Native wrote:
southernsky wrote:
Newer trailers have cut back front corners which give more room for turns. I have the pullrite on my rig and I never worry about hitting my trailer, cut back corners or not. What is the price of never having to worry about hitting....



X2


X3 peace of mind.
2014 Arctic Fox 27 5L Fifth Wheel
2013.8 Ram Larimie 3500 HD 4X4 Asin, Transfer Flow 50 gal Max Flo auxiliary Tank, PullRite Superglide

_1Flyboy
Explorer
Explorer
. . .Do not now have it but the PULL RITE Super Glide was THE BEST; easy to hook / unhook by myself & sweet as candy to use. . .Yes, worth it. . .( My friend has a brand X and always is entertaining to see & hear him with his hitch!!! )

Passin__Through
Explorer
Explorer
I would wait to buy a hitch until you buy your RV. Many will not need a slider, and even if you do, you can make it part of the package when you are buying the RV.


This^^.

We have a Pullrite and have had several occasions where we have had to make tight U-turns. It is great to never have to worry about the trailer hitting the cab or go through the inconvenience of operating a manual slider.

Have a buddy who has a Reese manual slider. Been thinking of nicknaming him "TwiceBump" since he has "kissed" the back of his short-bed Dodge on a couple of occasions.:B The repair cost of one incident was more than the cost difference between the Reese and the Pullrite.
2008 Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax 4x4 CCSB; Superglide 16k hitch w/3" lift kit; Titan 52-gallon replacement fuel tank :C
2007 HitchHiker II LS 26.5RLBG Mor/Ryde pinbox:B

Bionic_Man
Explorer
Explorer
I would wait to buy a hitch until you buy your RV. Many will not need a slider, and even if you do, you can make it part of the package when you are buying the RV.

I have had both a manual slide and a Pullrite, with two different trailers. My first RV I had for 2 years and I NEVER needed to use the slide. On my next (current) RV, I needed to slide it back EVERY time I put it away in my garage. The manual slide is a pain in the but. And, as others have said, you really have to watch the distance between the cab and trailer One time I did not, and ended up kissing my truck and putting a nice dent near the back window.

If I went back to a short bed truck, I would go back to a Pullrite.
2012 RAM 3500 Laramie Longhorn DRW CC 4x4 Max Tow, Cummins HO, 60 gallon RDS aux fuel tank, Reese 18k Elite hitch
2003 Dodge Ram 3500 QC SB 4x4 Cummins HO NV5600 with Smarty JR, Jacobs EB (sold)
2002 Gulf Stream Sea Hawk 29FRB with Honda EV6010

Dayle1
Explorer II
Explorer II
roothoss1282 wrote:
Let me ask this. I have a crew cab and when making a tight turn can you tell how close it is getting to the cab? I mean most of the time when making a turn the 5er is pretty close to the cab like just a couple of inches right? Do you have to worry when making most turns. If that is the case then its a no brainer.


When making a 90 degree turn, because the steering wheel cut is limited to about 36 degrees, the maximum angle between the truck and fiver will be around 45 degrees. This will not be a problem for any 6.5ft bed with extended pin box fiver. So, normal turns are not a problem, especially since we rarely turn the wheel to full lock anyway.

However, if you want to make a full 180 degree turn, then you will not be able to keep the steering wheel at full lock for the entire maneuver. Long bed trucks will have the same problem, but just later in the turn.

Finally, as MFL indicated, when backing a little extra jockeying back and forth can get the job done with less risk of cab to fiver contact and less stress on tires, etc. I use a fixed leg hitch with my 6.5 ft bed and never had a problem in 25+ yrs.
Larry Day
Texas Baptist Men-Retiree Builders since '01
'13 Silverado 3500HD LT 2wd CCSB SRW, custom RKI bed
'19 Starcraft Telluride 292RLS
Rig Photos

MFL
Nomad II
Nomad II
Normal driving going forward, no need to worry. If you are making a tight U-turn, better take a look, depending on FW front. If you are backing, best to have spotter watching. In most tight backing, it is best to pull ahead a little, then back again.

Can I turn my truck 90 degrees to my FW? I doubt it, but would not, even if I could. Can you back a TT to 90 degrees? Nope.

Some standard hitches are adjustable ahead/back, my B&W is. I have my pin about 40"s behind the cab, just ahead of axle center.

Jerry

powderman426
Explorer
Explorer
Have you considered a sidewinder or revolution pinbox??
Ron & Charlotte
WD8CBT since 1976
32' Gulfstream Ameri-Camp & 05 Ram QC LB

I started with nothing and I still have most of it left

I never fail, I just succeed in finding out what doesn't work