Replacing Interior cab wall in upper bedroom
Trying to fix up a 2002 Keystone 5th wheel with major water damage in the front bedroom. Found the leak on the roof and repaired it, but had to open the interior wall to replace it. Found that the insulation was wet and moldy, and the interior paneling had completely de-laminated all the way across the front. Pulled out the paneling and insulation, installed new fiberglass insulation, and then attempted to replace the paneling.
Problem I'm having is the wall is curved inward, matching the curve of the front cap. The old paneling was stapled to the aluminum studs, but for some reason I can't get the new paneling installed with the same curve. The panel is too stiff to bend to the curve. I did push (force) it in against the studs and hit it with my crown stapler, but the staples just go right through the paneling and won't hold it in place. I've set the air pressure on my stapler to 50 psi (supposed to be between 70 and 120) and the staples just keep going through the wood paneling.
Does anyone have a suggestion on how to apply the paneling and follow the curve of the studs? Thanks in advance!!
Problem I'm having is the wall is curved inward, matching the curve of the front cap. The old paneling was stapled to the aluminum studs, but for some reason I can't get the new paneling installed with the same curve. The panel is too stiff to bend to the curve. I did push (force) it in against the studs and hit it with my crown stapler, but the staples just go right through the paneling and won't hold it in place. I've set the air pressure on my stapler to 50 psi (supposed to be between 70 and 120) and the staples just keep going through the wood paneling.
Does anyone have a suggestion on how to apply the paneling and follow the curve of the studs? Thanks in advance!!
