To block or not to block...that is the question

[Huckleby]

My newly acquired fiver rides quite nose high. I tried lowering my hitch a notch but found that it would be likely I would strike my bed rails on very little incline. The axles on the camper are already mounted under the springs, so I am left with the only other option available which is installation of spacer blocks and longer U-bolts. I would entertain any other ideas and welcome opinions on this. My signature pic shows my issue:(

[wandering1]

Your truck is too high.... lower it or get a 4x2,

[JIMNLIN]

Suspension blocks on a trailer are not the best idea. Axle makers do not recommend them nor do trailer makers use or recommend them on multiaxle trailers nor are blocks a option.
Dexter says blocks adds more leverage and much more stress to the U bolts and spring clips and the backing plate.

One poster did it anyway however he had the block center pinned with next size up in diameter U bolts (5/8" I think) with a heavier upper plate and heavy spring clips to keep the spring leaves together.

My area big rig trailer repair shop raises trailer using the method in the picture. They don't recommend blocks but will add them if the owner insists however only after you sign a liability waiver.

[big_buford]

I normally wouldn't recommend it, but due to the size and light weight of your rig, I might give a set of blocks a try. Use ALL of the road when you tow and try to stay away from real sharp turns. That's what I'd do. I welded in a box frame on my rig, it's big and heavy though.

[Cummins12V98]

Me Again wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Me Again wrote:
The best option is to have a good welding shop add a subframe between the spring hangers and the trailers frame. Square or rectangular tubing. While they are at it , it does not hurt to have tubes run side to side at the three spring hanger locations. The picture below is after a frame repair. It shows old subframe and new cross tubes and gussets at the hangers. Print it off and take it to the welding shop with you.

Chris

Did you do the work or did Smiley's?

Looks just like the job a friend of mine and I did on our last 5er.

Those are Smiley's welding beads!!!!! They are not cheap, however they do quality work!!!

They flipped the axles about 6 years ago and fixed the I-beam cracks a few years ago.

Nice people to deal with. I was two weeks from leaving for Arizona and they got me in to fix the I-beam cracks.

I contacted both Lippert and Cardinal, and one of them helped me with the bill!

Chris

That's funny, I am sure my friend probably did the work. Him and I beefed up the frame on our last RV. Did a similar thing with the tube steel going spring to spring support.

[Me_Again]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Me Again wrote:
The best option is to have a good welding shop add a subframe between the spring hangers and the trailers frame. Square or rectangular tubing. While they are at it , it does not hurt to have tubes run side to side at the three spring hanger locations. The picture below is after a frame repair. It shows old subframe and new cross tubes and gussets at the hangers. Print it off and take it to the welding shop with you.

Chris

Did you do the work or did Smiley's?

Looks just like the job a friend of mine and I did on our last 5er.

Those are Smiley's welding beads!!!!! They are not cheap, however they do quality work!!!

They flipped the axles about 6 years ago and fixed the I-beam cracks a few years ago.

Nice people to deal with. I was two weeks from leaving for Arizona and they got me in to fix the I-beam cracks.

I contacted both Lippert and Cardinal, and one of them helped me with the bill!

Chris

[time2roll]

Also check the springs if they are sagging a bit.
Should have a nice arc to them.

[socoguy]

All good input. Considering the age of your rig it would be a big investment. Investigate larger tires and wheels; however you will not achieve 5-6 inches. It may be the best economical fix but will not get you completely level.

[Me_Again]

ol Bombero-JC wrote:

Huckleby wrote:
The other thing I need to consider is cost. It is a 1992 and I can't see putting much into it. Is it that vital that I correct this nose up attitude?

The rig photo in my profile shows the level (or lack of level) better.

The best method may not be the best in your situation.
(at least monetarily $$)

The blocks may be a less expensive and viable solution, worth a try.

Try a combo of short blocks and taller tires - move up a wheel size?
Replacement steel wheels aren't that expensive.

Internet size comparison sites will give you the dimensions of tires - what you have vs the possibilities - enter sizes, results in inches.
Don't forget to consider an increase in size reduces the distance *between* the two tires on the same side.

Some trailer mfgrs used steel (factory) pickup truck wheels - if you're trying to further cut expenses - check the bolt pattern & rim width - then visit a salvage yard.

.

It is more than rim width. The offset has to be correct! Not many truck rims have the required zero offset. Chris

[ol_Bombero-JC]

Huckleby wrote:
The other thing I need to consider is cost. It is a 1992 and I can't see putting much into it. Is it that vital that I correct this nose up attitude?

The rig photo in my profile shows the level (or lack of level) better.

The best method may not be the best in your situation.
(at least monetarily $$)

The blocks may be a less expensive and viable solution, worth a try.

Try a combo of short blocks and taller tires - move up a wheel size?
Replacement steel wheels aren't that expensive.

Internet size comparison sites will give you the dimensions of tires - what you have vs the possibilities - enter sizes, results in inches.
Don't forget to consider an increase in size reduces the distance *between* the two tires on the same side.

Some trailer mfgrs used steel (factory) pickup truck wheels - if you're trying to further cut expenses - check the bolt pattern & rim width - then visit a salvage yard.

.

[Huckleby]

I have not measured the exact difference in height, but 5-6" I would guess to be pretty close.

[Cummins12V98]

I would guess that your front is 4-6" higher in the front than the rear.

[restlesswind]

Huckleby wrote:
The other thing I need to consider is cost. It is a 1992 and I can't see putting much into it. Is it that vital that I correct this nose up attitude?

The rig photo in my profile shows the level (or lack of level) better.

With your truck/trailer combo,I doubt if you will be making many long trips.If that is correct then I would not worry to much about nose high towing.I would keep an eye on the rear trailer tires for wear,due to more weight in the rear axle
Others may not agree.
The rig does not look all that much out of level in the photo.

[Cummins12V98]

Me Again wrote:
The best option is to have a good welding shop add a subframe between the spring hangers and the trailers frame. Square or rectangular tubing. While they are at it , it does not hurt to have tubes run side to side at the three spring hanger locations. The picture below is after a frame repair. It shows old subframe and new cross tubes and gussets at the hangers. Print it off and take it to the welding shop with you.

Chris

Did you do the work or did Smiley's?

Looks just like the job a friend of mine and I did on our last 5er.

[Huckleby]

The other thing I need to consider is cost. It is a 1992 and I can't see putting much into it. Is it that vital that I correct this nose up attitude?

The rig photo in my profile shows the level (or lack of level) better.