To block or not to block...that is the question

I'm not a big fan of just blocks, I worry of the side to side stress. We raised ours with a 4" "box" that goes between the axles and the bottom of the FW. This way there is no way for flexing side to side.

The best option is to have a good welding shop add a subframe between the spring hangers and the trailers frame. Square or rectangular tubing. While they are at it , it does not hurt to have tubes run side to side at the three spring hanger locations. The picture below is after a frame repair. It shows old subframe and new cross tubes and gussets at the hangers. Print it off and take it to the welding shop with you.

Chris

The right way and in my opinion the only way to do it, is to have a sub frame between the spring hangers and the frame, if you need more then 2". If you need 2" then I would go with instaling a correct track system.

The right way to do it is above in photos. You can go to any height using this method so if you really need 6", you can have it built that way without risk. Randu

The other thing I need to consider is cost. It is a 1992 and I can't see putting much into it. Is it that vital that I correct this nose up attitude?

The rig photo in my profile shows the level (or lack of level) better.

Me Again wrote:
The best option is to have a good welding shop add a subframe between the spring hangers and the trailers frame. Square or rectangular tubing. While they are at it , it does not hurt to have tubes run side to side at the three spring hanger locations. The picture below is after a frame repair. It shows old subframe and new cross tubes and gussets at the hangers. Print it off and take it to the welding shop with you.

Chris

Did you do the work or did Smiley's?

Looks just like the job a friend of mine and I did on our last 5er.

Huckleby wrote:
The other thing I need to consider is cost. It is a 1992 and I can't see putting much into it. Is it that vital that I correct this nose up attitude?

The rig photo in my profile shows the level (or lack of level) better.

With your truck/trailer combo,I doubt if you will be making many long trips.If that is correct then I would not worry to much about nose high towing.I would keep an eye on the rear trailer tires for wear,due to more weight in the rear axle
Others may not agree.
The rig does not look all that much out of level in the photo.

I would guess that your front is 4-6" higher in the front than the rear.

I have not measured the exact difference in height, but 5-6" I would guess to be pretty close.

Huckleby wrote:
The other thing I need to consider is cost. It is a 1992 and I can't see putting much into it. Is it that vital that I correct this nose up attitude?

The rig photo in my profile shows the level (or lack of level) better.

The best method may not be the best in your situation.
(at least monetarily $$)

The blocks may be a less expensive and viable solution, worth a try.

Try a combo of short blocks and taller tires - move up a wheel size?
Replacement steel wheels aren't that expensive.

Internet size comparison sites will give you the dimensions of tires - what you have vs the possibilities - enter sizes, results in inches.
Don't forget to consider an increase in size reduces the distance *between* the two tires on the same side.

Some trailer mfgrs used steel (factory) pickup truck wheels - if you're trying to further cut expenses - check the bolt pattern & rim width - then visit a salvage yard.

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