Trying to decide which way to go on fifth wheel hitch

Another vote for rails. I don't haul dirt and rocks, but I do haul stuff. Last week I hauled a new boiler for a house I own. The rails matched with straps that fit the slots give a rock solid anchor system, not like those dinky little anchors in the bed sheet metal.

I have a very tight driveway where I park the 5er. I don't need a slider since the nose is notched, I do use a slider. Why? Because it moves the pivot back past the rear axle. Gets the old 5er swinging a little faster like a bumper pull.

Someone will always claim they have invented a better mouse trap and people will buy it. ;)

My currently old 2012 F250 has rails in the bed which are topped of with a Reese 15K Classic

That set up gets me there safe and sound every time. And I have no use for a slider.

So after getting advice from all the "experts", it would be interesting if you post back on what you went with and why.

When I bought my current truck I was trying to decide what to do for a hitch. At the end of the day I went back to the rails as I didn't have the puck option on my truck plus I really liked my Patriot hitch. I am in the camp of it doesn't bother me in the least having rails in my truck in fact for how I use it it's actually quite handy. It make a great stop for my various toolboxes that often ride back there and keeps them from sliding forward. As far as shoveling stuff or trying slide heavy objects in that is a non issue as I have various trailers that work better for that anyway.

Dan

We've only had two hitches so far and both have been Pullrite hitches. I'd certainly look at this brand for any hitch application. We have been VERY happy with Pullrite.

Bought a Demco 18k slider with the Ram prep rail. Works great but extremely heavy.

Here is some possibly useful information. Since the previous owner took the rails, look underneath the bed and ensure the mounting brackets are still there. Fifth wheel hitches don't mount to the bed, they mount to the frame through the bed. If the brackets aren't there, you get to start from scratch. Your choice.

If you plan on using your turning point hitch as designed; don't consider the Andersen hitches or the PullRite ball type hitches. They won't work.

If you plan on using your Turning Point hitch as designed; Don't use a B&W Companion turnover ball mounted hitch. The manufactured says not to. As a matter, I wouldn't use any single point attachment hitch with the Turning Point pin box system unless it was locked out.

If you do have the brackets beneath, I would order some industry standard rails in a heartbeat and do the simple installation. The finest fifth wheel hitches made are designed to fit in the rails and perform exceedingly well. They aren't obsolete technology, just the opposite.

ACZL wrote:

WTP-GC wrote:
Rails suck. They are obsolete technology. Do they work (and work well)? Of course they do! But there’s exactly ZERO reason for anyone to go back in time in favor of obsolete technology. Plus, there’s exactly ZERO guarantee that a newly purchased rail system will match the existing holes from an old rail system. How do I know? Been there, done that.

Here’s an article warning of the same issue:
https://www.etrailer.com/question-135802.html

I’d much rather put that brand new 4” hole in the middle of my bed and get the best hitch combo option available vs. trying to maybe re-use some old holes that might not work and is regressive technology.

I’ve used an AUH aluminum and had no trouble with it. The friend I sold it to also has no trouble with it and he uses it for more than just RV towing. There’s nothing wrong with that product or the idea of a single point attachment.

Well if you have a truck w/o the puck set up, then rails may be the best way to go. Sorry my friend, but I disagree w/ your assessment. My last truck and current truck didn't have the puck set up and I already had a rail mount B&W Patriot and not about to go buy another hitch as the B&W was bought in '17. Had no problems attaching the B&W to rails for either truck BTW. I personally do not have an issue w/ the rails in the track 24/7. Does it block complete clean out? Yes. Does it not allow for a complete flat floor? Yes. Do I worry about it? No. Can I still use the bed of truck? Yes. Do I have to remove the hitch to do so? Yes. Do I care? No. As it was said before, some 5ers are not so well suited to be a gooseneck set up. It really comes down to personal choice. Are rails obsolete? No. But for some folks getting into yanking a 5er around for 1st time, they maybe the cheapest way to start off with.

In your case, you already had the rail mount hitch. That’s the most expensive part of the entire arrangement. So that makes sense to stick with the rails. In the case of the OP, he has neither the rails or the hitch. He’s starting from scratch. Having 8 each 1/2” holes already in the bed means almost nothing unless you have the rail kit that it was drilled for.

I completely agree that the rails are the cheapest way to get started. But now we’re back to the idea of saving dollar bills while you’re spending hundred dollar bills. You get your $40K-$80K truck, connected to what is probably at least a $30K or greater 5er, yet we get stuck on saving maybe a couple hundred dollars to use a hitch system which industry manufacturers are clearly trying to get away from. Doesn’t make sense.

If rails don’t bother you, then so be it. I don’t like them. So be it. Yet I make the same point...why use rails when there are much better options available these days??

WTP-GC wrote:
Rails suck. They are obsolete technology. Do they work (and work well)? Of course they do! But there’s exactly ZERO reason for anyone to go back in time in favor of obsolete technology. Plus, there’s exactly ZERO guarantee that a newly purchased rail system will match the existing holes from an old rail system. How do I know? Been there, done that.

Here’s an article warning of the same issue:
https://www.etrailer.com/question-135802.html

I’d much rather put that brand new 4” hole in the middle of my bed and get the best hitch combo option available vs. trying to maybe re-use some old holes that might not work and is regressive technology.

I’ve used an AUH aluminum and had no trouble with it. The friend I sold it to also has no trouble with it and he uses it for more than just RV towing. There’s nothing wrong with that product or the idea of a single point attachment.

Well if you have a truck w/o the puck set up, then rails may be the best way to go. Sorry my friend, but I disagree w/ your assessment. My last truck and current truck didn't have the puck set up and I already had a rail mount B&W Patriot and not about to go buy another hitch as the B&W was bought in '17. Had no problems attaching the B&W to rails for either truck BTW. I personally do not have an issue w/ the rails in the track 24/7. Does it block complete clean out? Yes. Does it not allow for a complete flat floor? Yes. Do I worry about it? No. Can I still use the bed of truck? Yes. Do I have to remove the hitch to do so? Yes. Do I care? No. As it was said before, some 5ers are not so well suited to be a gooseneck set up. It really comes down to personal choice. Are rails obsolete? No. But for some folks getting into yanking a 5er around for 1st time, they maybe the cheapest way to start off with.

RooDude09 wrote:
I read the wedge can loosen up. I see someone has said you have to have the correct wedge so maybe that was the problem. The other problem of the pivot point being behind the axle causing sway was in an advertisement for a slider hitch so not sure what to believe on that. Haven’t had a chance to talk to any real people yet about it I definitely want the extra clearance all the time so that if I need to make a tight turn) I don’t forget to look if the trailer is going to hit the truck.

I never pay attention to what one person or a another brand hitch makers says about another product or how it will pull.

There are several top of the line rv type 5th wheel hitches on the market like the PullRite....heavier Reese hitches....same with the Kurt hitch which is a favorite with those that tow for a living.....B&W is another good hitch for rv work....Demco hitch systems....and of course the new gen hitch like the Andersen and PullRites Superlite system . One hitch isn't superior over all others.

As one poster says most newer 5th wheel trailers made for short bed trucks and have the rounded/notched front corners that eliminates the need for a sliding hitch or pin box systems like the one your looking at.

This is a area where the owners has to do the leg work. In other words there is no generic answer for which hitch is best or works best.

Rails suck. They are obsolete technology. Do they work (and work well)? Of course they do! But there’s exactly ZERO reason for anyone to go back in time in favor of obsolete technology. Plus, there’s exactly ZERO guarantee that a newly purchased rail system will match the existing holes from an old rail system. How do I know? Been there, done that.

Here’s an article warning of the same issue:
https://www.etrailer.com/question-135802.html

I’d much rather put that brand new 4” hole in the middle of my bed and get the best hitch combo option available vs. trying to maybe re-use some old holes that might not work and is regressive technology.

I’ve used an AUH aluminum and had no trouble with it. The friend I sold it to also has no trouble with it and he uses it for more than just RV towing. There’s nothing wrong with that product or the idea of a single point attachment.