unhitching problems

rhagfo wrote:

donn0128 wrote:
Have you tried cleaning and lubbing the mechanism. This spring i practically had to hammer my release arm into place. But after cleaning it and applying some WD-40 and working it around everything is nice and free again.

Sure could be a maintenance issue, these do require a little maintenance.I keep all the pivot points oiled and greased as necessary. I very seldom need much more than a strong tug to open them.

To the poster afraid to connect with the jaws closed, do it all the time. It doesn't take any force for the pin to open the Jaws of my Reese twin jaw hitch. This allows me to do a Pull Test as soon as the jaws close, with the wheels fully chocked there is zero strain on the LG, if you have high hitched, putting the weight of the 5er on the pin, then doing a Pull Test friction could keep you from pulling free.

If I ever damage my LG doing this I will be the first to let you know!!

If you are referring to me thanks. It seems like MY post got hijacked. If someone has a question he should start his own thread. Anyway I contacted Reese and they said the same as you about hitching with the jaws closed. That's what I'll do from now on. He also told me about a vertical plate in the forward part of the hitch just under the jaws that could be bent backwards causing a bind on the kingpin. He told me to look for signs of scraping in the top of it and check that it is not bent. I checked and there was an indication that the pin may have ridden up on it. I greased it up and attempted to hammer it back as he instructed. Guess I'll see how it works on my next trip. Thanks again to those who replied.

-BC-

donn0128 wrote:
Have you tried cleaning and lubbing the mechanism. This spring i practically had to hammer my release arm into place. But after cleaning it and applying some WD-40 and working it around everything is nice and free again.

Sure could be a maintenance issue, these do require a little maintenance.I keep all the pivot points oiled and greased as necessary. I very seldom need much more than a strong tug to open them.

To the poster afraid to connect with the jaws closed, do it all the time. It doesn't take any force for the pin to open the Jaws of my Reese twin jaw hitch. This allows me to do a Pull Test as soon as the jaws close, with the wheels fully chocked there is zero strain on the LG, if you have high hitched, putting the weight of the 5er on the pin, then doing a Pull Test friction could keep you from pulling free.

If I ever damage my LG doing this I will be the first to let you know!!

Check out the jaws for ridges from the pin working on the jaws. It may be causing the pinching you are experiencing.

MFL wrote:
When I had my old hitch, I had this problem, especially in my slight up hill driveway. I would block the wheels, put the truck in reverse, get out, pull the lever, get back in truck and pull out.

I don't want to sound like a B&W sales person,(no offence to anyone) but this hitch is very easy to unhook at any angle.

Just curious Chuck; do you ever use the slider?

Jerry

Jerry... I have a B&W hitch that I really like and would be my choice if I were buying a new one today...but sometimes when unhitching the jaws will not open although the handle pulls back in to the open position very easily. This occurs sometimes even when I'm on a level concrete slab. This is very irritating as one time it works perfect and the next time the jaws will not open. Someone can hold the handle in the open position and I can pull out from under the trailer. Can't figure it out. I have tried raising the trailer to different heights and that doesn't work.

I bought this hitch new when I bought the 2012 truck. At the time I had another trailer with a MorRyde pin box and the B& W worked liked a charm, but when I bought this new trailer with an Airborne Pin box, I started having the problem when unhitching....just sometimes. Any thoughts or ideas what is happening?

For 10 years I backed up with the jaws closed on my 16K. I watch the handle move out and slam shut to tell me I'm there. Only twice did I forget to lift the tab on the handle which keeps the jaws from opening.

When I couldn't disconnect, it was usually because the truck had rolled forward slightly putting pressure on the back of the jaws with the pin. I would just put in reverse and back up a tad and it would release. You can also have the issue if you lift the pin box too high and it puts upward pressure on the jaws.

I put Air-Lift bags on my last truck with a compressor and automatic leveling system by Air-Lift. When you raised the pin box up off the hitch, you had about 25 seconds to disconnect and move or the bags would release air and the truck would lower itself putting pressure on the jaws and it wouldn't release. I would cuss and my wife would laugh.

I have lubed it. It was a used hitch and kind of dirty when I got it. Wouldn't slide from lack of use and lube. I got it sliding good now but now it is giving me problems releasing.

Have you tried cleaning and lubbing the mechanism. This spring i practically had to hammer my release arm into place. But after cleaning it and applying some WD-40 and working it around everything is nice and free again.

I know a lot of people hookup with the jaws closed, but I never felt comfortable doing that and I have to believe it is putting unneeded pressure against the front legs. I think I' ll just keep the jaws open as I always have. JMO.

MFL wrote:
When I had my old hitch, I had this problem, especially in my slight up hill driveway. I would block the wheels, put the truck in reverse, get out, pull the lever, get back in truck and pull out.

I don't want to sound like a B&W sales person,(no offence to anyone) but this hitch is very easy to unhook at any angle.

Just curious Chuck; do you ever use the slider?

Jerry

Jerry,
Thanks. And also to all that have replied so far. To answer your question, yes, every time I back into a site. I'm not sure that I need to, probably not, but it gives me one less thing to watch while maneuvering, it helps keep the slider working and is real easy to do. So why not? Peace of mind is a good thing.

-BC-

When I put the truck in reverse to take the forward tension off the jaws, I release the foot brake after putting the truck in reverse, then I apply the parking brake which keeps the truck in that position and put the trans back in park and get out and unhook.