We have $20k, which used fiver under 29' that can dry camp?

[CampbellDaycrui]

Hello, I have been a long time lurker here until we have gotten close enough to actually making a purchase before asking for advice.

We are looking for a well-built all season fiver that is under 30' OAL since a big part of its use will be CA state parks where the maximum length is 28'. I have seen folks push it a bit size-wise when we have driven our SUV through the various places we are interested in visiting, but I would prefer being as close to 28' as possible. We are also exploring various Oregon communities with a view towards relocating in a couple of years and want a fiver we can comfortable stay in for up to a couple of weeks at a stretch, while we look around. Dry camping for a long weekend is a certain usage and we have a 2kw generator that can be paired with another for 4kw if necessary to run the a/c if we have to.

Our budget is $15k (her maximum) to $20k (mine), and I am a very handy person with a decent small shop. Our tow vehicle is a 2000 f-250 SRW crew cab 6'1/2" bed diesel that was once set up for a gooseneck trailer. The tires are new LT265/75R16 load range E max load rated at 3415 SRW. I have no hitch at present, but am looking on the used market for a decent unit, a slider if I can find one....

So far I am considering used Arctic Foxes, Alpenlites and a couple of others, but I am unsure if I am within the capacity of my TV as currently set up. Any comments or suggestions regarding our TV or a good fiver would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[CampbellDaycrui]

Thank you all, this is very helpful information.

[Old-Biscuit]

CampbellDaycruiser wrote:
We used to cruise the PNW on powerboats and currently dry tent camp, so are pretty frugal with water. 50gal fresh water will last us 4 nights including bathing, dish washing, etc. We have gotten used to bathing with a Coleman on-demand hot water heater and 5 gallons of water...... I know usage will go up with a fiver vs the wall tent, but we probably don't need 100 gals to support the two of us on a long weekend in the mountains.

Am I correct in thinking that with full hook ups the black and grey tanks are essentially bypassed and waste is dumped directly overboard for the RV parks system to handle, ditto the fresh water tank: the camper is supplied directly from a hose to a spigot?

At CG with full hook ups........
Black and grey waste goes into YOUR tanks (no bypassing) and then you hook up sewer hose and dump tanks when FULL
FULL allows liquid weight/volume to carry any solids out of tanks (black AND Grey)
Leaving dump valves Open when connected to CG sewer allows liquids to drain out leaving solids behind....not something you want.

Water.......
CG water via city water connection supplies RV water system
On-board pump using fresh water tank does the same.
When on city water----internal pump check valve prevents backflow thru pump into fresh water tank
When on pump ---- check valve in city water connection prevents backflow out city water connection

I always travel with FULL fresh water tank and use pump even when at CG with hookups.
One time CG water system failed and I didn't have any water in tank.......that was one time to many!
Use pump with CG water available.........
If pump should cycle when no water is being used it indicates a 'leak' something not noticeable on city water (until leak causes problems)
When we go some where I just have to flip pump switch OFF (on city water need to turn water off at spigot and disconnect hose -----just turning it off is OK unless someone turns it back on and you have a leak------not good $6K in damage YIKES!)

Generic Basic RV Water System

[happycamper002]

Some CA RV Parks do allow dumping grey water (this is water you had used for washing your hand, face or taking a shower) but definitely not from your black tank. . . directly to CG storm pipes.

Since the grey tank gets filled up pretty easy, this helps in minimizing trips to the dump station.

There are usually posted signs that will allow you to do this.

[romore]

Not a good idea to dump directly into the park sewer. The waste still goes through the tanks, the liquid will drain off but leave the solids behind creating the dreaded 'pile'. Best to let the black tank fill at least 3/4 full to allow the waste to soften and partially decompose. You can hook the water directly from the cg bib but it would be wise to use a hose designed for potable water along with a regulator at the bib. Depending on the water source you may also want a filter.

[CampbellDaycrui]

We used to cruise the PNW on powerboats and currently dry tent camp, so are pretty frugal with water. 50gal fresh water will last us 4 nights including bathing, dish washing, etc. We have gotten used to bathing with a Coleman on-demand hot water heater and 5 gallons of water...... I know usage will go up with a fiver vs the wall tent, but we probably don't need 100 gals to support the two of us on a long weekend in the mountains.

Am I correct in thinking that with full hook ups the black and grey tanks are essentially bypassed and waste is dumped directly overboard for the RV parks system to handle, ditto the fresh water tank: the camper is supplied directly from a hose to a spigot?

[Njmurvin]

It's hard to find a sub 29' fifth wheel with decent holding tanks for dry camping. Most of the shorter units trim weight by reducing tank capacities. My AF 27-5L is 28' long and has pretty good holding tank capacity, but the GVWR is almost 13K with the dual pane windows. Honestly, I think it would be too much for your truck. My brother has the smallest Alpenlite (Valhalla) that I'm aware of. Nominally, it's a 29 footer, but the actual measurement is probably over 30. It has huge holding tanks (100 gal fresh, 100 gal gray with 50 gal black), but the GWVR is 14000 lbs.

[Tiger02]

I don't see a problem weight wise if you're looking at 28'. Even with a 4 season 5th wheel your pin weight should be under what is allowed by your RAWR (considering you have the proper tires). You may need to consider some airbags if it squats more than you like.

I would get the truck weighed first, so you know what you're dealing with, and how much capacity you have for pin weight over the rear axle.

Wish you luck in your search.

[CampbellDaycrui]

There would be just myself and my wife for under 375lbs total. We took out the back seat of the crew cab and replaced it with a plywood floor with carpet for our 95lb German Shepherd dog. The truck is a basic XLT version with a/c, fm stereo and not much else. I would probably add 65lbs for a genset in the bed and maybe another 25 or so for a steel cage to keep the sticky-fingered at bay.

[Old-Biscuit]

2000 F250 CC SB Diesel

GVWR......8800#
FAWR......4850# (4X2) 5200# (4X4)
RAWR......6084# (4X2 & 4X4)


Payload...2535# (4X2) 2110# (4X4)

***MFG. published MAX TOW..........13,000#***

You will run out of payload capacity and GVWR LONG before reaching that magical mfg. published max tow number (based on 150# driver, 20# cargo and base trim model)

Payload will get eaten up fast....
Your weight above 150# PLUS all passengers, stuff in cab (door pockets, seat pockets, console, floor, under seats, backpacks, bags etc.) plus 5th wheel hitch
All subtracted from payload number........amount left over is for wet pin weight of 5th wheel (20% of GVWR)

Example: 500# for people/stuff/hitch....leaves 2000# for wet pin weight--------that means a 10,000# 5th wheel

Keep those numbers in mind when shopping.

Better still is to get truck weighed.....CAMP READY (all people/stuff etc)
$10-$12 for CAT Scale weighing
You will get truck Front & Rear Axle weights and total.
See how those REAL numbers stack up against Trucks Ratings.
(Payload would be actual truck total subtracted from truck GVWR)

Used market...NUWA (HitchHiker), Artic Fox, Horizons for winter use