Heating the Rig in Winter

sorry,I don't agree

Hi Lurker52,

No need for a cheap heat in most RVs just replace the return air grill with a dual window fan. That will keep air flowing through the furnace duct work and is a lot quieter than the furnace fan running (even at 1/2 speed). I added a mechanical thermostat so I don't need to monitor the temperatures.

For heating sources I use 1/2 size oil filled heaters that are essentially silent other than the clicking of the thermostat. I found places for them in the RV that were otherwise wasted space. Total cost under $250.00 for parts, including upgrading all but 3 of the 120 volt outlets in the RV. Time to install is minimal.

And, if need be, my home brew system can be used at the same time as the propane furnace saving dramatically on propane costs.

I lived in N. Fl. for many years. Run the furnace on nights in the 20 if you are concern. I have been in wyoming in early April and October. Night time temps in the 20 or 30. I use space heaters to heat the rig and monitor the basement with a thermomitor. If the basement gets close to 32 I hit the furnace. I have a heated water hose and keep the grey tank open, never had a problem. I am looking into Cheap Heat. That will solve all these concerns. It seems to work well from what I have read and been told by those who have it. I think it is worth the expense if you fulltime.

SuperDutyFiver wrote:
I did have a problem with my kitchen sink a few times when it was super cold out-never realized that a pair of low drains stuck thru the sub-floor and right out into the cold below the kitchen(with caps outside)-cold air would sneak up around them and freeze the T that continued up to the kitchen sink-duck taped a foam boot around the two lines and problem solved-never lost the kitchen water in the cold again.

Bighorns don't have low point drains anymore....exactly why they were eliminated.

I did have a problem with my kitchen sink a few times when it was super cold out-never realized that a pair of low drains stuck thru the sub-floor and right out into the cold below the kitchen(with caps outside)-cold air would sneak up around them and freeze the T that continued up to the kitchen sink-duck taped a foam boot around the two lines and problem solved-never lost the kitchen water in the cold again.

Thanks again. I'm learning here.

My main concern is the various cold water lines, not the tanks so much. I'll keep the tanks more then half full. I'm thinking the tank heaters should warm up everything in the tanks and help radiate some heat. Will also keep the hot water running for the same reason. And I'll just disconnect the outside hose on the days where I expect a freeze at night.

I do not have the ice maker option - probably just as well. Also, I have a kitchen island that contains my sink so that should help in this little battle.

Just to clarify why I'm asking. I have lived in Florida for about 15 years now and currently live just north of Orlando. There have been several recent winters that have been cold enough to freeze standing water that is isolated from the ground. I have a birdbath in my backyard and I have found the water (about 2 inches) frozen solid on several mornings when I took my dog out. I've also had the water in canister pool filters freeze enough to pop the lid off. So my question might not be QUITE as frivolous as it might seem.

Thanks once more to all who have offered suggestions.

Tim

Most times you should have freezing temps for just a short period of time and with the furnace set a 50 at night should have no problem. We keep the water heater on electric so there is always warm water in that. We don't shut it off and on as it would seem to us that letting the water get really cold uses as much energy to get it hot again as it does to let the tank periodically run to just keep the water hot. And that helps those lines stay warm. If really cold, we leave our cabinet doors open in areas with plumbing so the heat from inside can get to those areas easier.

if there are water lines near the furnace return.... use the window fan suggestion. and install a small hot water radiator. between the fan(s) and the furnace inlet air.. plumb the radiator from the hot water line to the cold water line. using a small hot water circ pump which should include a check valve. place the pump on the cool side of the radiator... that way the cooled hot water will return to the water heater via the cold water line.... use the water heater in electric mode, as it is a large gas consumer when used this way....
keep the fans on low and you have a constant heat source for the basement and living quarters... using portable electric heaters if it gets to cool for this system to keep you warm...
ps: you can mount extra radiators and fans in other locations like under the bathroom sink... just change the cabinet door panel to louvers or decorative screen. or mount in another convenient location... with access to water lines and power..

We aren't laughing at cold times in Florida...However lows aren't that low and they don't last. Run the propane heat to the utility bay. That should be enough to keep the pump and lines flowing.

Know, don't guess...put a remote temp sensor in your water bay.Once you get an idea how the temp is holding in that area you can adjust your heat to suit you.

It takes a lot of cold to freeze a tank unless it is nearly empty. The pump and lines are more vulnerable. Keep your gray, black and fresh about 1/2 full as much as possible and you should have nothing to worry about. A full tank, if you had really bad weather may not freeze but if it did could crack the tank. So empty out the tanks in nice weather and only do a partial dump in cold. Cold spells down there don't last all season so you should get the hang of it ok.

Another vulnerable area is a kitchen sink on a slide. Check to be sure nothing is open or visible from the outside and you should be ok.

And, ice maker valves...if you have a plastic one, the vents on the back are all open, you have water pressure to that line and don't have heat going to that area...those valves are notorious for cracking even just a few degrees below freezing. Before we added heat and closed off vents we broke two of them. We don't use tank water ice so we just shut off the line and took out the valve.

Do not leave your dump valve for either of the waste tanks open during cold weather as a little ice can build up in the sewer hose &/or the valve. And don't leave a sink faucet dripping.

We do not leave the water supply faucet on when temps drop. Unhook to allow the faucet head to drain and drain out your fill hose then reattach when temps warm up.

Your cold spells should be short and fairly mild so just pay attention to details and everything will be fine...enjoy your winter!

I live in S Ga and use my TT throughout the year. The few days that we have that the temp drops below freezing, I set the furnace as low as it will go and open the cabinet doors where there are water pipes. You may need to disconnect the city water hose and use out of the fresh water tank, as the hose is the most likely spot for freezing-- it's outside, small diameter and exposed to wind. One thing to consider when it is cold, is keeping your furnace set low and use an electric blanket when you go to bed. I only use my electric heater when I am up and can watch the thing.