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EastTexasFoster's avatar
Jun 30, 2014

1998 Southwind 35s Ford F53 Blinker / Turn Signal Repair

While cruising up the Texas Panhandle Saturday afternoon, my turn signals suddenly would no longer work. I checked all applicable fuses and bulbs, all were fine. We stopped for the night, and I Googled the problem.

Not surprisingly, many of the results were posts on this forum, and they definitely got me on the right track. However, I hope to help the next person by detailing the repair for this specific model.

First, many posts described two separate relays for the hazard flashers and the turn signals. On this particular model, that is not correct. Flashers and blinkers share one relay (Motorcraft part # SF-608). It is located inside the cabin, under the emergency brake. It is a small black cube held in place by one screw in a tab at the top, and there is a plug in the bottom. When I turned the flashers on, it would click with each flash, but when I turned on a blinker, nothing happened.

However, I was not 100% certain this was my problem. I also read on here about the turn signal multi-switch (it also contains headlight high/low beam, windshield wiper, and windshield washer switches, plus the hazard light switch is in the top) on the left side of the steering column, and how contacts inside might be corroded and need cleaning.

While you only see the control lever sticking out, the multi-switch assembly is hidden between it and the steering column. To gain access , pull the little round plastic ignition key guide thingamajigger off. It isn't very hard to remove, just push and pull until it pops loose.

Now, sit in the driver's seat and reach under the plastic cowling in front of the steering wheel. The are 3 screw holes (plus one extra hole, I have no idea what purpose it might serve). Use a medium Phillips screwdriver to remove them. Now, remove the top cowl, then pull the bottom cowl out of your way, you'll need to leave it hanging from the steering wheel height adjustment lever.

Now you can see the switch assembly. Using a T-20 Torx driver, remove the two (top and bottom) mounting screws that hold it against the steering column.

There are two wire harness plugs that you'll need to remove by prying the lock tabs on the sides and pulling.

Now, if you're going to inspect it for corrosion, you'll need a T-15 Torx driver to remove the 5 screws that hold the switch assmbly together.m But, wait!!!!!:

CAUTION: when you remove those screws, get a good grip on both sides and GENTLY, slowly open it. If you just snatch it apart, there are several items (springs, copper contacts, etc.) that will either fall out or jump out, and if you aren't good with jigsaw puzzles, you're in trouble.

Now, when I opened mine, it was as shiny and clean as a whistle, and everything was coated with a film of dialectric grease. I reassembled, reinstalled, and still had no turn signals.

Early Sunday we drove on to Strasburg, CO using flashers. Monday a.m. I found that Rush Trucking Center in Denver had both Motorcraft relay SF-608 ($34.56 plus tax) and the turn signal switch assembly Motorcraft SW-5578 ($147.27 plus tax). They assured me that if I didn't use the more expensive switch assembly, I could bring it back for a refund.

I installed the new relay. Still no blinkers. So, I then installed the switch assembly. HOORAY!!! That was it. While it cost me just under $200 to fix, I'm betting I would have easily shelled out $600 or more to let someone else do it.

Thanks rv.net and the Internet! Y'all rock!:)
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