2008 Citation Chateau M26BE electrical issues

What condition is the coach battery ? I think it needs to have a full charge. Check it with a volt meter while at rest. Should read 12.6v or better. Does your rv need to have the parking brake applied to operate those two things ?
What about a common ground to both. Clean the ground.

I agree with bobndot that first check is battery-both coach and chassis. suggest that you set parking brake and start the engine then check slideout operation, if it works then chassis battery might need replacing. My step runs off the chassis battery, but will retract automatically when engine starts.

newenglandguy wrote:
I just picked up my RV that’s been in storage for the winter and the step will not retract and the slider will not slide out. Both were working when it went into storage and Ive checked all the fuses. Wonder seeing that two things are wrong is if they are somehow connected and looking for suggestions what or where to look.

Thanks

Dave

slide will not move with the motor running

Cleaned ground (-) terminal and as long as I was at it, the positive terminal as well. Parking brake on, started vehicle with parking brake on - living room slide nor steps will work. Step are sitting in open position and slider is retracted and will not move.

All fuses have been checked in the panel (on side of bed) and all are good. Voltage is 12.8V on the panel.

Any other ideas?

Thanks

Dave

newenglandguy wrote:
Cleaned ground (-) terminal and as long as I was at it, the positive terminal as well. Parking brake on, started vehicle with parking brake on - living room slide nor steps will work. Step are sitting in open position and slider is retracted and will not move.

All fuses have been checked in the panel (on side of bed) and all are good. Voltage is 12.8V on the panel.

Any other ideas?

Thanks

Dave

SLIDE WILL NOT MOVE WITH MOTOR RUNNING

Have you turned the 12 volt cutoff switch back on from when it was in storage? My switch is near the entrance door. Also for pushtoy - my slide works with the motor running as long as the parking brake is engaged.

If it does not work with the engine off then you have retract both manually and take it to a repair shop or call a mobile mechanic.
The electrical all would need to be traced to determine the cause.

The steps simply can be retracted by removing a cotter pin off the linkage arm that controls the in/out movement or depending on the manufacturer it could be a bolt that needs to be removed.
That arm being removed will allow the steps to fold in. You should learn how to do that and the slide, just in case it happens in the field away from any kind of rv help. You might need some extra muscle to push the slide back in.

Before the depression, I did a lot of work on owners boats, and problems like this (not slides and steps as they don't have them) with things that were no problem last season now don't work.

I would first check the power source and it was usually good. Then I would check for power at the device. It would read good until you hit the switch and then it was gone....

This is an indicator of a connection gone bad. It is usually corrosion and it doesn't take much. The hard part is that you have to trace both sides of the power. For this, I always had a ~30ft clip lead in that tool box (actually, I still have both). That way I could quickly determine which side of the power was the problem. I have used the same on some of the boat owner's RVs. With the boats, it is anybody's bet where the bad joint is. With RVs, ~80% of the time it is the ground. Where the screw got put into the coach metal work has gone bad.

Good Luck

Matt

Before the depression, I did a lot of work on owners boats, and problems like this (not slides and steps as they don't have them) with things that were no problem last season now don't work.

I would first check the power source and it was usually good. Then I would check for power at the device. It would read good until you hit the switch and then it was gone....

This is an indicator of a connection gone bad. It is usually corrosion and it doesn't take much. The hard part is that you have to trace both sides of the power. For this, I always had a ~30ft clip lead in that tool box (actually, I still have both). That way I could quickly determine which side of the power was the problem. I have used the same on some of the boat owner's RVs. With the boats, it is anybody's bet where the bad joint is. With RVs, ~80% of the time it is the ground. Where the screw got put into the coach metal work has gone bad.

Good Luck

Matt

On my Cambria there is another set of fuses/relays inside the storage compartment by the entrance door. One fact i learned by working on different friends coaches is you never know where the fuses may be.

My step would not retract. When opening the door, the carpeted step had a wire connection tucked in the corner that needed attention.

BIL's Monaco has automatic window covering screens. The fuse panel was inside the closet of the main bedroom. Nothing about that in the manual or on any schematic. Fuse hiding is a common occurrence with RV builders. My guess is sometimes a few add-ons require another wiring destination, hence another fuse panel.

Under the hood and dash board for the chassis, anywhere and anything is possible with the house section. Always think of your coach as two separate systems. chassis and house, it's helpful.

Recently there was a post concerning the failure of the parking brake switch. Once the brake is pushed a light should come on and it sends power to the system to let it know the brake is on so the slide can activate, check that switch.

Let us know what you find out to help the next guy.