2009 Winnebago View. Ride

I took my RV to a truck suspension place and they rebalanced the front tires and did an alignment.

Now the ride is worst than it was before. The steering wheel is vibrating (oscillating side to side) starting at 62 and get worst as you go faster. I also feel the entire RV vibrating more. I'm going to bring it back for them to check it over but what can it be.

It's so much worst now that I don't even want to drive it

Any help would be greatly appreciated

marusakc wrote:
I noticed you mentioned front end vibration sometimes at higher speeds. I purchased a 2009 Fleetwood Icon in February. Its a bit similar to the Winnebago View with the Sprinter chassis. I started noticing the same regarding vibration. The tires were about due for replacement so I had that done with no improvement. I took it back to have it checked and balanced again but that did not help. Next, I took it elsewhere and they said it had a worn ball joint on the left so those were replaced and the rv was aligned, too. Well, none of it has made any difference. Any other suggestions?

Ball joint replacement is a wasteful and fruitless task on Sprinters, according to Doktor A.

Ball Joint wear measuring

"I was organizing my desk and came across an old FedEx TSB on this very subject. That was a good reminder that I have long needed to post a Tech Alert.

Weekly phone calls from frustrated Sprinter owners facing expensive ball joint replacement during a State vehicle safety inspection was a very good reminder as well.

It appears that the majority of Sprinter ball joint inspections are being done incorrectly. And lots of money is being wasted by performing time consuming and expensive replacement of good ball joints.

The design of the Sprinter front suspension has the ball joints in constant compression, even when the vehicle is raised and the wheel is off the ground.

Traditional ball joint assessment methods are completely inappropriate for the Sprinter.

The factory recommendation (also FedEx recommendation): DO NOT even attempt the traditional method of measuring axial play (up and down play) by jacking of the lower A arm and then prying on the stub axle. This will likely show an 'alarming' amount of play which would result in a failing grade. Alarming for a traditional ball joint design but NOT the Sprinter.

Replacement should be considered only if the dust boot is torn (risk of contamination and loss of lube) or excess pivot friction or noise is present due to lack of lubrication (If the boot is not torn it is unlikely that lubrication will be an issue).

I recall reading of similar confusion in England when the national vehicle safety inspection (the MOT) was resulting in needless Sprinter ball joint replacements due to incorrect assessment. The authorities later issued a 'spec' (3mm if I recall) to quell the uproar but it still did not recognize the unique design, it only provided a pass/fail number the techs could apply using a traditional and incorrect measuring procedure.

Sprinter ball joint replacement is an ugly, difficult, and expensive job which, if done without care, can result in damage and also front wheel sensor issues.

Educate your local tech.

Doktor A"

Vibration in steering wheel would point to potential in suspension components between the wheel and spindle.

Vibration from seat/floor points to different component. This is where items like driveshaft etc come in.

Something is either loose or out of round.

What is run-out of the tires when the front end is off the ground?

With one tire off the ground can it be turned to get any lateral or turning movement (as if steering)?

If run-out is below 0.070" on your steel wheels and since you have changed tires it is not the tire uniformity so must be some other component or the centering of the tire on the wheel or wheel on hub.

Suggest you review this article in detail.

pg 42 of THISmanual may help.

I noticed you mentioned front end vibration sometimes at higher speeds. I purchased a 2009 Fleetwood Icon in February. Its a bit similar to the Winnebago View with the Sprinter chassis. I started noticing the same regarding vibration. The tires were about due for replacement so I had that done with no improvement. I took it back to have it checked and balanced again but that did not help. Next, I took it elsewhere and they said it had a worn ball joint on the left so those were replaced and the rv was aligned, too. Well, none of it has made any difference. Any other suggestions?

bounciness in the rear

I think you need to clarify that. Is it too much rocking or bouncing after the bump has passed? Boat like ride? Sloppy? This would point to need for stronger shock absorbers.

Or is it slamming, jolting, pounding impacts on the bump itself? This would point to too much tire pressure, or too stiff a shock absorber. Even under normal circumstances ride in the rear can be worse than typical vehicle. Possibly over the rear axle or cantilevered out behind it.

I noticed a slight vibration in the steering wheel at speed above 70 mph but it's not always present.

Have the front wheels re balanced. It could be a few other minor things but my bet is on that.

I had an oil change done at the freighliner dealership and they inflated the tires to 70 psi which definitely improved the ride.

I do have koni fsd in the read so no adjustments needed, I did notice the ride improve over time.

I noticed a slight vibration in the steering wheel at speed above 70 mph but it's not always present.

The tires were just installed and balanced by sts tires which specializes in cars/small trucks. I was thinking of doing a front wheel alignment and front wheel balancing at a truck alignment shop.

Hoping that would improve the ride

What does the vehicle certification label say for tire size, Load Range and pressure? What is the actual load on F & R axle? This means on a scale and not "eyeball" as I have yet to meet anyone with a calibrated eye that can identify load within 1000# by just looking.

We bought our View used also but have yet to notice an objectionable rear movement.

Is your cargo load very light or very heavy? I have a cargo rack and/or bike rack plus a toad and don't notice a problem.

Basically on a View the tire pressure will be about 62 psi. Do not use the side wall MAX load pressure, it will be about 80 psi and that is for a max loaded tire, which these are not.

The shocks are, I hope set to max stiff, the View needs all the help it can get.

Straight vertical bounciness? Most view owners add heavy sway bars to control a lot of the rocking.

Are you a member of the Yahoo View/Navion forum?

Charles

1. Pressure set according to fully loaded scale weight according to a tire manufacturer chart BUT add 10% to the Load Inflation chart number to provide a margin for variation in ambient temperature and for load variation due to wind side load and slope of roads.