24 feet versus 26' dilemma, have to decide fast

[mountaintravele]

Hello! I'm a complete newbie to RVs.
I'm buying a motorhome to travel the country for a year or two.
I have no pets.
(I had extensively traveled America and camped all over for 20 years without an RV and I love tent camping)

I found that my favorite places (in National Forests and parks) allow 24 feet max motorhome max.
Sometimes even the road to the place has this length limit
(windy mountain roads).
Upon viewing 24' units I feel tehre's too little space to fulltime in for 1-2 years. I guess I feel the fatigue from my extensive tent camping and all the tiny houses I stayed in, as I've been a full time traveler for quite a while
26' seems like a very good compromise size-wise (ideally I'd want a 31 but this won't get me into placdes)
Gas mileage on those seems to be the same, prices too.
The problem is the size limits.

Do you think I can get away with 26' in 24' spaces?
I see some indications people had been doing it but not sure if it's for real.

[mountaintravele]

pnichols wrote:

mountaintraveler wrote:

pnichols wrote:

Here's us driving out of a woods campsite alongside a river that has overflowed it's banks ... it probably takes a Ford or Chevy chassis under a Class C to provide this kind of stock ground clearance (we now have larger-than-stock-diameter tires on it for even more ground clearance):

That's very impressive, sounds like a good rig, I didn't know they could do crossings like that.
I got E450 Ford chassis. Cleareance isn't high, not much higher than my Toyota Camry, actually, because of just one certain low spot (exhaust manifold I think), plus generator exhaust pipe could be sitting higher. It's been very hard to buy a rig in good condition and low mileage, mine had low and gentle usage, was stored inside - I'm lucky to have found it - took me entire crazy adventure to get it out of Northeast during historic ice storm while towing my car behind it all night, never having towed anything before.
I constantly get compliments to my rig in random store parking lots, people want those rigs.

I'm being extra cautions and don't go anywhere where I have the slightest doubt about clearance. I did master very tight turns on narrow windy roads. I'm glad that I got class C, for me as a begginner is the best option overall. The tail starts sweeping up about halfway past the rear wheel. I just avoid questionable dips and the only time I tail-scraped, ironically, so far, was getting out of RV repair shop in Phoenix, AZ 3 months ago - !!
I carry roof shingles, rubber mats, shovel, carpet and 2x8 pieces in case I'd get stuck, also.
I managed to do all kinds of camping in low clearnace sedans over the last 15 years, so I know how to avoid problems.

I've been boondocking non-stop since mid-February, mostly in the deserts, trying to stick to flatter areas. In the real mountains, I guess can go to spots I already know about where I camped with a sedan, plus I use phone apps to find out non-high clearance spots. Apps are often not accurate, and I use topo and LIDAR maps to verify terrain.

Glad I didn't go over 26' - I was able to park in busy store parking lots and make turns to get out of bad roads, where a longer rig wouldn't be able to.

I've seen some camper vans for sale before I got my class C - it's awful to have to live in one, spaces are so tiny, except in summer when you can just tent-camp all the time and many of them don't have toilets or shower stall. A compact full-amenities trailer, may be "expedition" type trailer, with 4x4 truck would be the best option, I think, if I wanted to branch out into more off-roading.

In my earlier photo of us driving on a road that was flooded alongside a river - in our slideless E450 24 ft. Class C motorhome - was probably made safely possible not due to it's stock "ground clearance per se" that kept water out of the coach's floor area ... as the water was probably all around the differential, springs, driveshaft, shocks, etc..

What kept the coach dry was more likely the fact that our Class C was of a "basement" design: The coach floor starts about another 5-6 inches above the top of the E450's frame. This means that 1) there is a step-up from the cab floor to the coach floor, and 2) that the outside cabinets are quite tall, so as to provide good exterior storage volume.

The outside storage cabinets are all steel lined and have pretty solid rubber gasket sealed doors. A couple of the outside cabinets even have inclosed 5" tall storage areas starting at the top of their back walls that run laterally all the way across to the other side of the coach - in between the chassis frame and under the bottom of the coach flooring. This allows for outside, but still enclosed, storage of long items such as fishing poles and shovels.

FWIW, I'm a believer in increasing ground clearance via only using larger diameter tires - instead of keeping stock tires but then having the whole vehicle's structure being lifted above the axles ... which still leaves chassis running gear (differentials, driveshafts, shock ends, spring ends, etc.) exposed low to the ground.

I see. Mine is also of basement design though the seals probably would let the water into the lower compartments.
Luckily my coach can handle being flooded without damage if it can dry quickly, because of the design of the floor, drain holes and no insulation underheath.

[pnichols]

mountaintraveler wrote:

pnichols wrote:

Here's us driving out of a woods campsite alongside a river that has overflowed it's banks ... it probably takes a Ford or Chevy chassis under a Class C to provide this kind of stock ground clearance (we now have larger-than-stock-diameter tires on it for even more ground clearance):

That's very impressive, sounds like a good rig, I didn't know they could do crossings like that.
I got E450 Ford chassis. Cleareance isn't high, not much higher than my Toyota Camry, actually, because of just one certain low spot (exhaust manifold I think), plus generator exhaust pipe could be sitting higher. It's been very hard to buy a rig in good condition and low mileage, mine had low and gentle usage, was stored inside - I'm lucky to have found it - took me entire crazy adventure to get it out of Northeast during historic ice storm while towing my car behind it all night, never having towed anything before.
I constantly get compliments to my rig in random store parking lots, people want those rigs.

I'm being extra cautions and don't go anywhere where I have the slightest doubt about clearance. I did master very tight turns on narrow windy roads. I'm glad that I got class C, for me as a begginner is the best option overall. The tail starts sweeping up about halfway past the rear wheel. I just avoid questionable dips and the only time I tail-scraped, ironically, so far, was getting out of RV repair shop in Phoenix, AZ 3 months ago - !!
I carry roof shingles, rubber mats, shovel, carpet and 2x8 pieces in case I'd get stuck, also.
I managed to do all kinds of camping in low clearnace sedans over the last 15 years, so I know how to avoid problems.

I've been boondocking non-stop since mid-February, mostly in the deserts, trying to stick to flatter areas. In the real mountains, I guess can go to spots I already know about where I camped with a sedan, plus I use phone apps to find out non-high clearance spots. Apps are often not accurate, and I use topo and LIDAR maps to verify terrain.

Glad I didn't go over 26' - I was able to park in busy store parking lots and make turns to get out of bad roads, where a longer rig wouldn't be able to.

I've seen some camper vans for sale before I got my class C - it's awful to have to live in one, spaces are so tiny, except in summer when you can just tent-camp all the time and many of them don't have toilets or shower stall. A compact full-amenities trailer, may be "expedition" type trailer, with 4x4 truck would be the best option, I think, if I wanted to branch out into more off-roading.

In my earlier photo of us driving on a road that was flooded alongside a river - in our slideless E450 24 ft. Class C motorhome - was probably made safely possible not due to it's stock "ground clearance per se" that kept water out of the coach's floor area ... as the water was probably all around the differential, springs, driveshaft, shocks, etc..

What kept the coach dry was more likely the fact that our Class C was of a "basement" design: The coach floor starts about another 5-6 inches above the top of the E450's frame. This means that 1) there is a step-up from the cab floor to the coach floor, and 2) that the outside cabinets are quite tall, so as to provide good exterior storage volume.

The outside storage cabinets are all steel lined and have pretty solid rubber gasket sealed doors. A couple of the outside cabinets even have inclosed 5" tall storage areas starting at the top of their back walls that run laterally all the way across to the other side of the coach - in between the chassis frame and under the bottom of the coach flooring. This allows for outside, but still enclosed, storage of long items such as fishing poles and shovels.

FWIW, I'm a believer in increasing ground clearance via only using larger diameter tires - instead of keeping stock tires but then having the whole vehicle's structure being lifted above the axles ... which still leaves chassis running gear (differentials, driveshafts, shock ends, spring ends, etc.) exposed low to the ground.

[mountaintravele]

pnichols wrote:

Here's us driving out of a woods campsite alongside a river that has overflowed it's banks ... it probably takes a Ford or Chevy chassis under a Class C to provide this kind of stock ground clearance (we now have larger-than-stock-diameter tires on it for even more ground clearance):

That's very impressive, sounds like a good rig, I didn't know they could do crossings like that.
I got E450 Ford chassis. Cleareance isn't high, not much higher than my Toyota Camry, actually, because of just one certain low spot (exhaust manifold I think), plus generator exhaust pipe could be sitting higher. It's been very hard to buy a rig in good condition and low mileage, mine had low and gentle usage, was stored inside - I'm lucky to have found it - took me entire crazy adventure to get it out of Northeast during historic ice storm while towing my car behind it all night, never having towed anything before.
I constantly get compliments to my rig in random store parking lots, people want those rigs.

I'm being extra cautions and don't go anywhere where I have the slightest doubt about clearance. I did master very tight turns on narrow windy roads. I'm glad that I got class C, for me as a begginner is the best option overall. The tail starts sweeping up about halfway past the rear wheel. I just avoid questionable dips and the only time I tail-scraped, ironically, so far, was getting out of RV repair shop in Phoenix, AZ 3 months ago - !!
I carry roof shingles, rubber mats, shovel, carpet and 2x8 pieces in case I'd get stuck, also.
I managed to do all kinds of camping in low clearnace sedans over the last 15 years, so I know how to avoid problems.

I've been boondocking non-stop since mid-February, mostly in the deserts, trying to stick to flatter areas. In the real mountains, I guess can go to spots I already know about where I camped with a sedan, plus I use phone apps to find out non-high clearance spots. Apps are often not accurate, and I use topo and LIDAR maps to verify terrain.

Glad I didn't go over 26' - I was able to park in busy store parking lots and make turns to get out of bad roads, where a longer rig wouldn't be able to.

I've seen some camper vans for sale before I got my class C - it's awful to have to live in one, spaces are so tiny, except in summer when you can just tent-camp all the time and many of them don't have toilets or shower stall. A compact full-amenities trailer, may be "expedition" type trailer, with 4x4 truck would be the best option, I think, if I wanted to branch out into more off-roading.

[mountaintravele]

4x4van wrote:
The difference between a 24' and a 26' is negligible;
...

Reading what the OP is planning makes me think that they want to do the same type of camping that they always have, i.e. boondock tent camping, and in the same locations, but with the amenities of a class C RV. Sadly, I don't think that is possible, and while I could be wrong, this kinda looks like a train wreck waiting to happen, particularly considering the OP's eyesight issues and admitted problems with parking a car. Realistically, buying a transit van and installing just a sink, stove, fridge, and porta-potti, leaving room for the OP's camp chair and cot, would be the best answer.

I don't want a port a potty, eeew, no thanks. Whatever I will use will have a flush toilet and a black water tank. I'd never want to live in a van, no thanks.

Don't worry about my eyesight, I've been driving and doing tight turns on narrow roads in the dark right over drop off cliffs many times now, and navigated many crowded parking lots, with a back up camera driving class C is a piece of cake.

Don't wait for that train wreck to happen, it's not coming, better watch your own rig not to get in a wreck.

I don't believe that 24' vs 26' difference is negligible. This can often mean a difference between your tail hitting something in a super tight turn between the cliffs and the rock face or trees, or scraping the thorny brush and damaging paint. Also this can mean not being legal on some roads or in some campgrounds. And there're more and more rangers hungry for ticketing or chasing people off, with general overuse and overcrowding that's happening.

[mountaintravele]

I'm the OP and want to update on how it had turned out.

I'm really, really glad I didn't go with the wrong advice to ignore the length and just buy a bigger motorhome.

Length is critical. I ended up buying 26', mainly because it's harder to buy 24' and with me looking for low mileage and good condition motorhome my options were limited. I had been boondocking in it for almost 3 months now. With 26' length I'm almost oversized for many tight turns and small spots.

Someone on here gave me really good advice about a truck with a camper top.
I now know that what I really need is a high clearance and preferably 4x4 setup.
I'm glad I got a motorhome, because I feel it's best for me as a beginner, but I can't even start getting into most camping spots with standard class C, which is not high clearnace. A truck with a camper or a small high clearance trailer would let me get into the spots I need to be (camper tops are too small for full timjng though)

Dispersed camping is extremely overcrowded, continues to be so. First off it's the outdoor madness that started in 2020, secondly it's major homelessness crisis, worsed by intentional devluation of dollar since 2020, then, there's overpopulation in this country (growing population for which there's not enough infrastructure), and over-commercialization of many locations promoted online, combined with outdoors blogging/youtubing boom.

It's not like it's impossible to find places to park at all but it's hard to find enjoyable private places for normal 2-week stays. In many locations most spots are occupied on any day of the week and I'm talking some remote locations included. 10, even 3 years ago, these location usually were uncrowded. So, the way to go is to drive futher, over rough narrow roads, to more remote spots, which requires high clearance and often 4x4. (I know and found some more currently uncrowded wild areas accessible to MHs, so I will be fine since I only want to live in the MH for a year or two, but these areas are only open/comfortable in limited season and weather due to snow, road conditions, mud, temperatures, etc).

So far I've been camping where I hardly could see others far away or don't see anyone else, so had been fine, once the season starts in June my options for solitude will explode.

[Grit_dog]

Uhh this horse has been dead for a while now….

[4x4van]

The difference between a 24' and a 26' is negligible; however remember that actual bumper to bumper length is almost always more than the stated length of any RV. On either (24 or 26), you will have problems with overhang and tail swing compared to any car or large truck, especially if you are going off-road (even mild off-road). Yes, pnichols (above) does it, as do many of us; but I'd be willing to bet that he has significantly more experience driving an RV than Mountaintraveler does. Additionally, the house portion of a class C extends significantly out wider than the cab; something that takes getting used to for a newbie, and a 9'-11' height doesn't just come into play in camp sites, but also while driving on some small residential streets.

Removing a swivel chair and/or a jackknife sofa MAY provide room for the OP's cot/camp chair, but I'm really not sure of the point, and many jackknife sofas also have stuff under them (water tank or pump, water heater, etc.). Removing a dinette is much more challenging, and will likely render it useless (for future reinstallation).

Reading what the OP is planning makes me think that they want to do the same type of camping that they always have, i.e. boondock tent camping, and in the same locations, but with the amenities of a class C RV. Sadly, I don't think that is possible, and while I could be wrong, this kinda looks like a train wreck waiting to happen, particularly considering the OP's eyesight issues and admitted problems with parking a car. Realistically, buying a transit van and installing just a sink, stove, fridge, and porta-potti, leaving room for the OP's camp chair and cot, would be the best answer.

[pnichols]

Here's us camped with our Ford E450 based 24 ft. Class C out on the far side of beyond in Death Valley ... notice that the coach body starts out sweeping immediately upwards from the rear wheels back so as to minimize tail dragging when starting on side road or parking lot upgrades:


Here's us driving out of a woods campsite alongside a river that has overflowed it's banks ... it probably takes a Ford or Chevy chassis under a Class C to provide this kind of stock ground clearance (we now have larger-than-stock-diameter tires on it for even more ground clearance):

[Bordercollie]

Our 2004 Fleetwood model 26Q measures 27 feet long bumper to bumper.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

The over hang in of itself is not much of a problem.

Tail Swing IS a bigee.

I went from 27' to 28'5". I had four tail swing accidents in 2 years with the 28. I had none in a 9 year period on the 27'

[ppine]

Buy the 26 footer and don't look back.

[valhalla360]

mountaintraveler wrote:

klutchdust wrote:
When you say you want to go to the same places you went to in your car that raised my eyebrows a bit. My 30ft. had a fair overhang in the back and it dragged pretty easy going into certain roads and areas. If you have no experience driving a larger vehicle it can get interesting real quick. I have found no issues with parking, their limits are so one vehicle doesn't take two spots, like some do at truck stops which annoys the truckers.
I suggest renting what size you are interested in and try it out for a weekend or so.

I see. That's important for me to know about 30ft overhand,
some 26' also have noticeably more overhang.
Toyota Camry is not a 4wd, to put it mildly, and has low clearance -
yet I was able to go miles and miles on all kinds of very uneven bumpy gravel and dirt roads, without damaging the bottom (one time I did reseal of oil pan, though, cost me a fortune at a dealership)
I'm not in a position to do RV renting now.
I'm buying a motorhome next week and heading back out West on it after inspections and fixing up anything that needs to be.
What you say seems to point out that it'd be safer to get a 24' one.

I have bad eyes.
Also, my eyeglasses' plastic frames limit my field of vision. No one to help parking. I get very tired on long drives, become no good at parking from fatique. Had adventures with my Camry's bumper meeting pine trees and boulders, definitely and a 20' campsite can be hard to back even a Camry into when you're tired. Can't imagine what happens with long vehicle. Shorter RV is definitely safer bet in terms of not hitting things and not scraping.

Generally speaking a Camery is a much better off road vehicle than a 24/26 ft class C. The short wheel base and minimal overhangs will avoid most issues that a Class C will experience.

Also, if you do abuse it, the Camery will take it far better. The house part of an RV is not very tough and durable. Even just bouncing down a rough road without bottoming out can tear one apart in conditions the Camery wouldn't have a problem with. Back into a tree or boulder and it can be major damage that would only be a dent on a Camery.

In addition to finding things under/inside furniture, be careful of going to extremes removing furniture as the furniture often acts to add strength & stiffness to the outside walls. Removing a cabinet by itself is unlikely to have much impact but if you gut the thing, it may become a floppy unstable mess.

Honestly, the difference between 24 & 26 ft is unlikely to be noticeable in real world use and the least of your worries. Just get the one that meets your budget/layout preferences.

Also, concerning is that you will be too tired after a long drive to back in safely. If true, you are probably a danger on the road long before you reach the campground. Much better to plan shorter driving days. When you are tired is when you make stupid mistakes.

[kwplot34]

With all the issues that have been mentioned trying to get the Toyota camry/corolla into a spot, backing into rocks and trees. A class C no matter what length is not something you should get. And it sounds like from your post that you have some vision issues.
Driving a class C is not like driving the pickup you rented.

Just being honest with you.

[bobndot]

mountaintraveler,
As long as you thought it thru and are comfortable. Knowing all the variables is where you want to be.

Just something to be aware of for people like us who go into the woods. When you are looking at rvs, pay attention to the dump valve location. On newer models, the dump plumbing is usually tucked up inside an exterior compartment. On older models, it's exposed and easier to hit it something. Ground clearance of that plumbing setup is less. If your rear wheels dip into a low spot on the trail, that plumbing may touch the ground.


RE: $3k. it was FYI. If you bought new towing equipment to outfit your car to tow it. I wasn't sure you were renting a dolly or not.

[Walaby]

Im sure you'll do fine. Just take your time and pay attention.

Im sure if people knew how I jumped into TT/5er towing they'd have a heart attack and tell me I was bound to kill either myself or some unsuspecting motorist. As long as you remember you're in a larger vehicle and you need more time to make sure things are clear, etc, you should be fine.

24/26 foot should easily be manageable, even for a newbie. Heck, they turn school bus drivers loose after a few hours of training.

Mike