30 amps too 50 amps is it posssible

It is what it is...your best bet would be to isolate the rear a/c and run it off a separate 20 plug from the pedestal....Dennis

For what it is worth I took out my fiver's 30 amp system and installed a 50 amp system. I had a bit of trouble finding a way to route the bigger 50 amp cable to the circuit breaker box area. I had to purchase a new circuit breaker box, but it was not difficult to wire up the box. Now we can run everthing without worring about triping the circuit breaker on the ouside pole.

Hi,

30 amps is 3600 watts. Break out the rear airconditioner with it's own 20 amp plug.

I broke out my converter and did another for my water heater. The easy place to do it is at the power center.

I used a couple of female outlets and two male plugs. I can change back to the OEM source of supply in a couple of seconds.

Executive wrote:
It is what it is...your best bet would be to isolate the rear a/c and run it off a separate 20 plug from the pedestal....Dennis

I'd surely try that before I did some expensive modification. my 99 winnie chieftain would run both ACs with it's EMS. perhaps you could upgrade the EMS.
bumpy

Fairly straight forward to swap in a 50a panel. The hard part is pulling the 6/3 romex from the cord entry and transfer switch to the new panel. If access is easy go for it.

You may want to look at a JTB Power Solution. it converts a 30 amp service to a 50 amp. I know I'm considering it, I may have replace AC units on my bounder. their site is jtbmfg.com

I did it slightly different from most.

I have a two position outside breaker box with two 120V breakers installed, one 30 amp and one 20amp, these feed two outlets one 30amp 120V RV plug and one standard 120V dual household outlet.
The breaker box has a 2ft long 6 gage wire with a 50 amp male plug. I plug that into the CG pedestal and then plug my 30amp RV plug into the 30 amp outlet and the rear AC into the other outlet.

Very inexpensive, no heavy cable to drag around and works great. You do have to fix the rear AC to run from the generator or the CB outlet but that is an easy fix.

Hi Gary,

I made a "break out" box which has two 20ties and a 30, each with their own breaker.

You can also go to the location where your 120V distribution panel is and install a selector to allow you to run one or the other of the two air conditioners from the shore power cord, and both from the generator. This type of installation used to be quire common. A good way around the power cord problem is to install an automatic transfer switch(ATS) that will shift power to the generator without the use of the power cord. Such devices have one input from the power cord and one from the generator set, and the device will select between the two.

Normal connection for an ATS is that the generator is the preferred source and it will shift if the generator power is available. If you do this, you should never start the generator with the a/c units turned on.

I already have the selector switch as you were speaking of i am considering just removing the rear air from the selector switch its just nice having the option of not having to unhook anything to run rear air just a flip of a switch and cut it on. What im going to do is add another plug tied to the rear air and add a socket tied to panel so i can still run the rear air when im on shore power at house. I want it simple thats our hiding spot from the kids.