30 amps too 50 amps is it posssible

craigspeer2001 wrote:
I have a 95 winebago brave and i upgraded the front ac from a 7500 watt too a 13,500 the generator will run both acs but when you plug into shore power with the same 30 amp plug you use on generator it want run both acs. I would like to keep it where the generator runs both units so what do i need todo correct the shore power deal or is it just what it is.

Best cure is to install a dual power adapter, so that you can run the rear ac on a separate circuit and usually the 20 amp pedestal outlet. This is what the genset does with it's 20 amp breaker and utilizing the 30 amp for the rest of the coach.

I'm not quit sure what you have
A/C is rated in BTU's not watts
Is 7500w the size of your generator,
I think you said you put in a new 13500 BTU A/C unit

And yes your best option is to break out (1) a/C and place it on an external 120v. 20 amp circuit, to plug into power pole with an extra cord

craigspeer2001 wrote:
I have a 95 winebago brave and i upgraded the front ac from a 7500 watt too a 13,500 the generator will run both acs but when you plug into shore power with the same 30 amp plug you use on generator it want run both acs. I would like to keep it where the generator runs both units so what do i need todo correct the shore power deal or is it just what it is.

On mine when I pulled the switch there were 2 terminals left that, when checking it with a meter, you could hook your 20 amp shore power too to run your rear a/c. This made my a/c's work with either shore power on gen. power. If I could only get a 30 plug (no 20 amp. with it) I could still select which one I want to run.

I bought a Power Solutions kit to rewire the distribution box so that I can plug in a 20-amp cord to the shore power pedestal. Once set up, I have the 30-amp cord plugged into the 50-amp outlet with an adapter and the 20-amp cord plugged into the 30-amp outlet with an adapter. Yep, it's all adapted, but it works and does not overload the pedestal power. BTW - I use surge protectors on both.

bob_b wrote:

Executive wrote:
It is what it is...your best bet would be to isolate the rear a/c and run it off a separate 20 plug from the pedestal....Dennis

X2!

That is what I did several years ago. It is a cheap modification and works great.

X3.

I also wired in a standard 115v outlet on the separate 20amp circuit. Allows me to run another electric heater in the winter.

Executive wrote:
It is what it is...your best bet would be to isolate the rear a/c and run it off a separate 20 plug from the pedestal....Dennis

X2!

That is what I did several years ago. It is a cheap modification and works great.

dog house Jim wrote:
You may want to look at a JTB Power Solution. it converts a 30 amp service to a 50 amp. I know I'm considering it, I may have replace AC units on my bounder. their site is jtbmfg.com

Here's is my JTB Power Solution System installed in my Denali 266RL 34' TT. I also have a Progressive Industries EMS on both the 50AMP Main Panel service and the 30AMP (Technically 20AMP) JTB service. I did not opt for the install kit as I intended to use a 30 amp twist lock power inlet to match my 50 amp main inlet. Also I was running short #10 wires, so the install kit is not pictured. I also purchased the yellow 30to20 amp adapter by Marinco (#126A), which is hard to find.

I also chose to add a receptacle to my JTB box which will only be used if the main A/C is turned off at the thermostat. I chose to "JTB" my main A/C rather than my second A/C because that is the ducted unit that we will always be using. It also is the larger unit and pulls more amps, so I isolated it to the JTB which frees up more available amps on the main 50 amp panel for the microwave, uline ice maker, hair dryer, and other appliances. If I did the bedroom AC on the JTB then I am limiting the amount of time that I actually benefit from the JTB. Haven't been camping as I just finished the install today, but connected to power at home and everything works as expected.

Here's the slideshow photos:
http://s544.photobucket.com/user/knowles2424/slideshow/JTB

I already have the selector switch as you were speaking of i am considering just removing the rear air from the selector switch its just nice having the option of not having to unhook anything to run rear air just a flip of a switch and cut it on. What im going to do is add another plug tied to the rear air and add a socket tied to panel so i can still run the rear air when im on shore power at house. I want it simple thats our hiding spot from the kids.

You can also go to the location where your 120V distribution panel is and install a selector to allow you to run one or the other of the two air conditioners from the shore power cord, and both from the generator. This type of installation used to be quire common. A good way around the power cord problem is to install an automatic transfer switch(ATS) that will shift power to the generator without the use of the power cord. Such devices have one input from the power cord and one from the generator set, and the device will select between the two.

Normal connection for an ATS is that the generator is the preferred source and it will shift if the generator power is available. If you do this, you should never start the generator with the a/c units turned on.

Hi Gary,

I made a "break out" box which has two 20ties and a 30, each with their own breaker.