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phnguyk's avatar
phnguyk
Explorer
Jul 26, 2017

30 to 50 amp conversion

Our 30 amp coach was prewired for a second ac. Recently installed one with a separate 20 amp cord to run to the pedestal. It worked, but was a bit of a pain. So this past weekend I upgraded our coach from 30 to 50 amp.
15' of 6/4 wire $48
Furion 50amp inlet $28
Square D 100 amp panel $20
50amp double pole $10
2x 20amp single pole $20
30 amp single pole $10
2' of 10/2 $28 for 25'

I ran the 6/4 to the cabinet next to my original 30amp panel and installed the Furion 50amp inlet in a new location outside. I wired the panel so that one 50 amp is dedicated to the 30amp breaker which then feeds my original auto transfer switch via 10/2. The other 50amp breaker now feeds my second ac and W/D through individual 20 amp breakers. I left the original 30amp panel and 12v distribution as is. The only draw back is my current generator wont power my second ac or W/D, until 1 I upgrade the generator and at that time upgrade the transfer switch and 30amp panel to a 50amp panel.


Class A
  • TNGW1500SE's avatar
    TNGW1500SE
    Explorer
    Aug 02, 2017
    phnguyk wrote:
    hohenwald48 wrote:
    You should be careful when using solid copper Romex in RV wiring. The constant vibration can cause panel connecting screws and wire nuts to loosen causing high resistance connections that can generate heat. I've seen wire nuts back completely off the wires in RVs and boats.

    Also, the uninsulated ground wire can contact the neutral buss causing a dangerous neutral/ground bond inside the RV.



    Don't understand what you're saying about the use of romex, the entire coach is wired with solid copper. The main 6/4 feed is stranded. Any wire nuts were taped from the factory. As for the ground making contact, its next to impossible to happen, could it sure, anything could happen.


    I'm a little lost too. Every wire in my panel was "hard wired" from the factory and when I did the upgrade in me TT, I installed the ground bar on the opposite side as the neutral bar. After seeing how these RV's are wired from the factory, it wasn't hard to do a better job than the factory did. The way the wall outlets are put together is as cheesy as it gets.
  • Dale_Traveling's avatar
    Dale_Traveling
    Explorer II
    Jul 31, 2017
    phnguyk wrote:
    '08 models have the "mega storage" in the rear. I also turned the nightstand into a laundry shute.

    Too cool. If I did that my strongest point for upgrading to a DP would be lost.
  • phnguyk's avatar
    phnguyk
    Explorer
    Jul 30, 2017
    hohenwald48 wrote:
    You should be careful when using solid copper Romex in RV wiring. The constant vibration can cause panel connecting screws and wire nuts to loosen causing high resistance connections that can generate heat. I've seen wire nuts back completely off the wires in RVs and boats.

    Also, the uninsulated ground wire can contact the neutral buss causing a dangerous neutral/ground bond inside the RV.



    Don't understand what you're saying about the use of romex, the entire coach is wired with solid copper. The main 6/4 feed is stranded. Any wire nuts were taped from the factory. As for the ground making contact, its next to impossible to happen, could it sure, anything could happen.
  • hohenwald48's avatar
    hohenwald48
    Explorer
    Jul 29, 2017
    You should be careful when using solid copper Romex in RV wiring. The constant vibration can cause panel connecting screws and wire nuts to loosen causing high resistance connections that can generate heat. I've seen wire nuts back completely off the wires in RVs and boats.

    Also, the uninsulated ground wire can contact the neutral buss causing a dangerous neutral/ground bond inside the RV.
  • TNGW1500SE's avatar
    TNGW1500SE
    Explorer
    Jul 28, 2017
    Nice job! I assume you're backfeeding the new panel through the 50 amp double pole? I did that in my last TT. It was tripping the 30 all the time so I moved the A/C to the new leg and used the old panel as a sub just as you did. I also added a new wall mount 120 volt heater to the same 20 as the A/C. You're never going to use the heater and A/C at the same time so I stuck them on the same breaker. That panel probably accepts piggybacks if you ever need more spaces. I guess you knew not to bond the panel? It gets bonded in the CG panel.
  • phnguyk's avatar
    phnguyk
    Explorer
    Jul 27, 2017
    '08 models have the "mega storage" in the rear. I also turned the nightstand into a laundry shute.
  • Dale_Traveling's avatar
    Dale_Traveling
    Explorer II
    Jul 27, 2017
    It's killing me not to ask since I have an 2006 31D but where did you shoe horn in a washer dryer into the floor plan?
  • phnguyk's avatar
    phnguyk
    Explorer
    Jul 26, 2017
    ScottG wrote:
    Nice job!!
    I'm surprised the 100A panel was only $20. Seems like a bargain.

    Scott


    $18.95 actually. LOL

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-Homeline-100-Amp-6-Space-12-Circuit-Indoor-Surface-Mount-Main-Lug-Load-Center-with-Cover-HOM612L100SCP/100190554

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