ABS Light On

yes they will work with abs just like they did before they were conceived.

The ABS light has been on in my van for over 10 years lol. As others said your ABS won't function, but the brakes themselves are fine.

mikemc53 wrote:
OK so I had the MH (2004 HR Vacationer PCT) in storage since last October. Started it and ran the generator every couple of weeks. Hadn't driven it until today - wanting to drive from Florida to Michigan in two days. Went to fill the gas tank and it ran great both ways and stopped fine also. Got back to where I am setting it for two days to ready for the trip and the ABS light came on right as I was pulling onto a site (we are in a campground) to hook up power. I drove it back and forth a few times and the brakes seem to work fine but the light stays on. I shut it off and restarted - same thing.

Don't know what might have happened over the past 8-9 months so hoping that someone might have some thoughts.

Thanks gang!

Could be just a sensor quirk too, so trying disconnecting the chassis batteries for a bit and for seeing if it clears.

As rgatijnet1 said, the brakes will work fine aside from the antilock system not kicking in, the same as if the vehicle simply never had antilock brakes. I personally would fell perfectly fine finishing a trip under those circumstances and getting whatever the problem is sorted out once home, especially if it were practical to avoid driving in poor weather or slippery conditions. It is not very hard to avoid snow and ice this time of year.

(A bad or misaligned or poorly-connected sensor is a likely culprit, but there are a few other things that it possibly could be as well, including something with the control module, a failure in the BS valve and pump system, etc.)

I assume that your coach is on the Workhorse W chassis. An ABS light will still allow your brakes to work fine but you WILL NOT have ABS or anti-lock braking protection. This can be caused by a faulty sensor (about $100) or a dirty connection, etc. The sensors just slide in on the backside of your braking assembly. There is a two wire pig tail that comes off of each sensor that plugs in to the wiring harness. If you have an ohmmeter it is easy to check each sensor. A good sensor will read about 1200 ohms. The sensors just slide in to the back and you may try pushing on the back side to see if one sensor has come a little loose and just moved out. If it has it should slide right back in and problem solved. If you find that you have a bad sensor according to an ohmmeter check, they are available online or at some truck service centers. Mine were made by Meritor but I do not have the specific part number available. Easy enough to change with no tools needed. Just pull the old one out and shove the new one in. Plug in the cable and drive.