Add 110 receptical

TNGW1500SE wrote:

ScottG wrote:

10forty2 wrote:
... if you have a 20amp circuit, get a 20 amp outlet.

I had an interesting conversation with a Leviton rep. He said there is no difference in the internal architecture between a 15A and 20A receptacles other than the shape and that the 15A part is built to carry the 20A load. He said that goes for all manufacturers and is an industry standard for their standard receptacles *of course they offer heavy duty versions). So maybe this is why the NEC allows 15A receptacles on a 20A circuit.

I think you'll find that most electricians use 15 amp outlets on 20 amp circuits with 12 gauge wiring. It's done all the time. If using 14 wire you need a 15 amp breaker.

I agree. It's pretty much standard to wire lighting circuits with 14 ga. wire and outlet circuits with 12 ga. wire. When we built our current house we specified no wiring smaller than 12 ga. We didn't specify that the outlets should be 20 amp so the contractor installed 15 amp ones.

Having said that 12 ga. wire is rated for 18 amps on a continuous basis.

Gazelle05 wrote:
Want to add another receptical to coach. Can anyone tell me are recepticals on a daisy chain? If the outlet is tied into the inverter it has two lines going in. Is one feeding the next outlet? If so how can I connect another outlet without breaking the chain?
Thanks

Outlets are wired in what's called parallel, so no breaking of any chain. It' hot to hot with the usually black wire and neutral to neutral with the white and with however you might connect it.

ScottG wrote:

10forty2 wrote:
... if you have a 20amp circuit, get a 20 amp outlet.

I had an interesting conversation with a Leviton rep. He said there is no difference in the internal architecture between a 15A and 20A receptacles other than the shape and that the 15A part is built to carry the 20A load. He said that goes for all manufacturers and is an industry standard for their standard receptacles *of course they offer heavy duty versions). So maybe this is why the NEC allows 15A receptacles on a 20A circuit.

Interesting...About 2 years ago we had a problem with tripping breakers and some receptacles being burned/scorched at our fairly new (<10 yrs)church. We had an electrician in and he verified that all wiring was up to code and in good condition. However he noted that all the plugs were 15A. I never even knew there was a difference between 15 and 20A receptacles. We purchased and changed all plugs to 20A. We've never had a breaker trip since.

Found main junction box, wired direct. Hardest part was running 12-2 Romeo. Thanks for everything

ScottG wrote:

10forty2 wrote:
... if you have a 20amp circuit, get a 20 amp outlet.

I had an interesting conversation with a Leviton rep. He said there is no difference in the internal architecture between a 15A and 20A receptacles other than the shape and that the 15A part is built to carry the 20A load. He said that goes for all manufacturers and is an industry standard for their standard receptacles *of course they offer heavy duty versions). So maybe this is why the NEC allows 15A receptacles on a 20A circuit.

I think you'll find that most electricians use 15 amp outlets on 20 amp circuits with 12 gauge wiring. It's done all the time. If using 14 wire you need a 15 amp breaker.

ScottG wrote:

10forty2 wrote:
... if you have a 20amp circuit, get a 20 amp outlet.

I had an interesting conversation with a Leviton rep. He said there is no difference in the internal architecture between a 15A and 20A receptacles other than the shape and that the 15A part is built to carry the 20A load. He said that goes for all manufacturers and is an industry standard for their standard receptacles *of course they offer heavy duty versions). So maybe this is why the NEC allows 15A receptacles on a 20A circuit.

Interesting.... didn't know that.....

10forty2 wrote:
... if you have a 20amp circuit, get a 20 amp outlet.

I had an interesting conversation with a Leviton rep. He said there is no difference in the internal architecture between a 15A and 20A receptacles other than the shape and that the 15A part is built to carry the 20A load. He said that goes for all manufacturers and is an industry standard for their standard receptacles *of course they offer heavy duty versions). So maybe this is why the NEC allows 15A receptacles on a 20A circuit.

Look around under/inside the cabinets and find a junction box. If it doesn't need its own separate circuit, then you can open the junction box and make your connection there. Make sure you use a strain relief on the new wire where it goes into the junction box through one of the knockouts. 12/2 romex with ground is good for a 20amp circuit. I think NEC allows up to 12 or 13 outlets on a 20amp circuit. Just make sure that you get the right sized outlet too... if you have a 20amp circuit, get a 20 amp outlet.

The problem i ran into adding a 120VAc Receptacle to my Trailer was I found the RV 120VAC Receptacles were the slimline push together type. This also pinches the 120VAC wiring to make connection.

I found hardly any slack in the romex and no good spot to tap into the 120VAC Circuit.


Google Image

I eventually found a spot with some slack and added a PVC Electrical Junction Box here. Then I ran a new ROMEX line from this tap to where i wanted the new 120VAC receptacles added.

I used the standard 120VAC Receptacle with screws on the back inside a PVC Electrical wall box...


Google image

One caution when working around the RV SLIM LINE TYPE 120VAC Receptacles is the ROMEX wiring has pinched the wiring lines and makes them very easy to break into because of the pinched crease in the wire. Due to lack of wiring slack it would be almost impossible to repair anything.

Just my observations
Roy Ken

Parallel circuit. Plenty of info on the web