An answer to a question please?
Our friends just bought a 40 foot motor home, planning to travel a large part of the year. The motor home has a residential refrigerator, does this mean it will ONLY run when plugged in to electricit...
Forum Discussion
Bill.Satellite wrote:wa8yxm wrote:
Three options for powering a residential fridge.
1: Shore
2: Generator
3: Big honking inverter (Eats battery power).
RV's use all 3 methods.. I prefer the absorption unit cause not all places I park have enough electricity to power the blang things... But Propane always works .
Not sure why folks who don't like something try to post scary words and inaccuracies to try to make others feel like they do. A residential fridge does NOT require a big honking inverter and it doesn't Eat battery power. It does require an inverter and an inverter does use battery power but that's why they put batteries in your coach! A residential fridge draws about 3 amps while the compressor is running and none when it is not. You can easily use a RR in your RV and once you do you will likely never go back. I have a 20cf GE Profile side by side with filtered ice and water through the door. Over night when you are on battery only the fridge doors never open and the compressor runs much less often. I already have a whole house inverter so using it is just logical but if you want to install a stand alone inverter...let's see 3 amps, 360 watts. To me that sounds like a 750W to 1000W inverter would easily handle the load.
You forgot the ICEMAKER. That adds about 200 watts(1.8 amps). So, you now need an Inverter that supplies about 6 amps(700 watts). Going LESS than 1000 watt Inverter is foolish. 1000 and up should be the minimum standard for residential refers. BUT, why not spend a few dollars more and get the 1500 or 2000 watt to power the Entertainment and Microwave? The added cost is not that much more. Doug
