Anyone damage low hung sewer valves and terminal end?

I wanted a winnebago also when I was shopping 2 years ago..you can get the enclosed dump valves but you have to step up to the more expensive models...I went with Fleetwood because of that plus my model came with the black water flush..not really sure if I made the right decision or not ...time will tell.

exposed dump valves makes me keep walking...

Another issue with low slung piping is the difficulty in creating the proper downward slope for the `stuff' to flow properly especially if the campground pipe sticks up above the ground.

I almost did once. I was pulling out of an extremely tight spot, and had to run over a rock to get out, forgetting that my connector is right behind my TT's tires. When it came down off the rock, it brushed my connector, leaving a small scratch. Close call.

DAS26miles wrote:
My current Winnebago Minnie has the sewer valves and terminal end in a compartment enclosed and in the body.

That's the case with our 2005 Itasca, too.

It's drains and valves are completely enclosed in a two-compartment metal cabinet that is up high next to the frame. This cabinet is large enough to carry drainage system spare parts. The other half of this cabinet (with a steel divider in between) contains all of the cabling and electrical KIOSK adapters for external generator or full hookups, as well as a couple of hoses for up to a 75 foot of fresh water fill distance - all protected from dirt/dust and up high off the ground.

FWIW ... our main engine exhaust pipe, built-in generator installation, built-in generator exhaust pipe, automatic step when retracted, cab aluminum running boards, and rear bumper/trailer hitch heights ... are all well up off the ground.

(I call the above, in combination, as making up important portions of "Class C ground clearance". These are a few of the factors that I mention in the forums regarding some Class C motorhomes being better for off-pavement use than others - as certain folks with specific camping styles may want to be aware of when looking to buy a small Class C motorhome. )

j-d wrote:
Are the builders doing what's cheaper, or trying to free up storage space?

Probably a little of both. :D
My Itasca 31C is a basement model with enclosed valves, but relatively limited OCCC of a little over 1,000#. My 31K which is about a foot longer than the 31C, with much smaller outside storage compartments, has exposed valves and a 3,275# OCCC. Granted 450# of the difference is in the GVWR differences of the two chassis, but still there is a sizable difference in the ratings.

I think a number of us have had issues there. If a tire blows the tread is likely to tear the plumbing up. Behind the tire offers some assurance of clearance going forward, but the valves are right there to back into if approaching a high spot in reverse. Are the builders doing what's cheaper, or trying to free up storage space?

DAS26miles wrote:
My current Winnebago Minnie has the sewer valves and terminal end in a compartment enclosed and in the body. The new ones we are looking at have the valves and end hanging below the body and just to the rear of the rear tire. To me, it's an accident waiting to happen. I have scraped my step pulling into a driveway, this hangs much lower.

It sounds like since the valves are just to the rear of the axle they should be OK. Every Class C and the one travel trailer I've owned (other than my Class C 31C) have had the valves outside. When I bought my Itasca 31K the dump valves were a good distance behind the axle and were only 5 1/2" above ground level. My son replumbed both tank drains, moving the outlet about a foot closer to the axle and gained about 4-5" ground clearance. I did notice on a model built after mine they had changed the plumbing to something to more like what my son did.

Our B+ had the same "problem" the dump valve angled down about 3" below the connecting collar. We rotated it 90° in a campground at Dawson Creek AL at the start of the Alaska Highway, since we had scraped it at least twice since leaving Indiana. Why the valve wasn't glued in parallel to the ground I don't know. Now since we rotated it I have to reach up under the side wall it get the to the "T" handle.

Yes mine where damaged during the first test drive before buying the class C. Then we had to install another leafe spring on each side to bring up the rear of the coach.

I always had a problem with those valves leaking. I tried cleaning it up as best as I could, then sanded the fiberglass, mixed up epoxy, and had some fiberglass standing by. Applied the epoxy, fiberglass batt (about 8" square) and more epoxy. Let it all harden, and hopefully it stopped leaking.

Sold the RV a year later, and bought a Bounder with enclosed tanks and 18" bumper to ground clearance! Holding tank valves are now inside a basement compartment 18" off the ground, and the tanks are sitting above the frame rails, where they should be!

You might also consider a spring upgrade. It really helped out on our 85 GM 3500 RV. It brought the whole rear end up a lot, and it stopped dragging as we left the gas stations too. Ours was done in Las Vegas, at a spring shop. Look for a heavy truck repair facility near your home. I know they have a lot of them out in the valley. I think that our cost was only in the $300 range, back in 1994.

Have fun camping!

Fred.