atwood water heater not working on electric

rk911 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

rk911 wrote:
did you check the thermal cutoff (brown wire) for continuity? it acts like a fuse. when the electric side went out on our atwood 2-yrs ago (gas side comtinued to,work) i had advice to check it and sure enough it had blown. got a new one from a parts house and was back in biz. ez to check with a volt/ohm meter.

Couldn't have been the thermal fuse
If bad then NO DC goes back to circuit board so neither gas or electric would work

Since 2004 Atwood Gas/Electric have used common DC and circuit board controls

See wiring diagram.....thermal stops DC for both



Messing around with it...replacing it you might have made ECO Connection better
When on Electric a millivolt current goes from circuit board to ECO/Gas Valve and to ground
This allows the ECO to be part of the safety control loop
No millivolt thru ECO...no Electric operation

not true. our thermal cutoff was blown..no continuity. elec would not work but gas side did. replaced TC and restored elec side.

All DC goes THRU the thermal fuse whether calling for heat from electric or gas
Look at wiring diagram....DC on brown wire stops at thermal fuse if blown
W/O DC back to circuit board NEITHER gas or electric CAN work



Unplug the thermal fuse and see if either will function

Old-Biscuit wrote:

rk911 wrote:
did you check the thermal cutoff (brown wire) for continuity? it acts like a fuse. when the electric side went out on our atwood 2-yrs ago (gas side comtinued to,work) i had advice to check it and sure enough it had blown. got a new one from a parts house and was back in biz. ez to check with a volt/ohm meter.

Couldn't have been the thermal fuse
If bad then NO DC goes back to circuit board so neither gas or electric would work

Since 2004 Atwood Gas/Electric have used common DC and circuit board controls

See wiring diagram.....thermal stops DC for both



Messing around with it...replacing it you might have made ECO Connection better
When on Electric a millivolt current goes from circuit board to ECO/Gas Valve and to ground
This allows the ECO to be part of the safety control loop
No millivolt thru ECO...no Electric operation

not true. our thermal cutoff was blown..no continuity. elec would not work but gas side did. replaced TC and restored elec side.

btilfan wrote:
Thank you everyone. I have 11.3V at the yellow and 13V at the white. It appears to be working now. I tightened all connections. Must have been a loose one somewhere. the light in the switch is still not working but I can live with that.

Light on switch should only come on when there is a FAULT
Propane failed to light/prove it lit .... Flame Failure FAULT
ECO (Energy Cut Off -- HI Temp T-stat) OPENS ... Temp COntrol Failure FAULT (either gas or electric use)

Thank you everyone. I have 11.3V at the yellow and 13V at the white. It appears to be working now. I tightened all connections. Must have been a loose one somewhere. the light in the switch is still not working but I can live with that.

btilfan wrote:
thanks, I will try some of the suggestions but it may take some time as I have to put element back in and refill the tank.

With NO 120 (wh breaker OFF) you can test the board/120 relay without installing the Heat Element. It is all 12 volt. Doug

thanks, I will try some of the suggestions but it may take some time as I have to put element back in and refill the tank.

rk911 wrote:
did you check the thermal cutoff (brown wire) for continuity? it acts like a fuse. when the electric side went out on our atwood 2-yrs ago (gas side comtinued to,work) i had advice to check it and sure enough it had blown. got a new one from a parts house and was back in biz. ez to check with a volt/ohm meter.

Couldn't have been the thermal fuse
If bad then NO DC goes back to circuit board so neither gas or electric would work

Since 2004 Atwood Gas/Electric have used common DC and circuit board controls

See wiring diagram.....thermal stops DC for both



Messing around with it...replacing it you might have made ECO Connection better
When on Electric a millivolt current goes from circuit board to ECO/Gas Valve and to ground
This allows the ECO to be part of the safety control loop
No millivolt thru ECO...no Electric operation

dougrainer wrote:
AT the Board is a YELLOW wire. When the 120 electric switch is ON, That YELLOW wire should have 12 volts. The WHITE wire should have 12 volts. The WHITE comes from the 120 inside switch. Post what the results are. Your RV is a 2007? If the white and yellow are 12 volts, odds are the 120 relay is bad or a wire came off. That relay is NEXT to the 120 element at the back of the Water Heater. You should have seen it when you tested the 120 element. Hard to miss. Doug

THIS^^^^

Thanks Doug
Save me some 2 finger typing

AT the Board is a YELLOW wire. When the 120 electric switch is ON, That YELLOW wire should have 12 volts. The WHITE wire should have 12 volts. The WHITE comes from the 120 inside switch. Post what the results are. Your RV is a 2007? If the white and yellow are 12 volts, odds are the 120 relay is bad or a wire came off. That relay is NEXT to the 120 element at the back of the Water Heater. You should have seen it when you tested the 120 element. Hard to miss. Doug

did you check the thermal cutoff (brown wire) for continuity? it acts like a fuse. when the electric side went out on our atwood 2-yrs ago (gas side comtinued to,work) i had advice to check it and sure enough it had blown. got a new one from a parts house and was back in biz. ez to check with a volt/ohm meter.