Atwood Water Heater

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Don't know why you started another post...folks were responding and giving you good troubleshooting on your other one :H

Your OTHER post

You have a voltmeter.......use it to find where AC power stops

Sorry I did not know how this forums works

Don't know why you started another post...folks were responding and giving you good troubleshooting on your other one :H

Your OTHER post

You have a voltmeter.......use it to find where AC power stops

You stated you had power to the water heater CB and WH works with direct extension so that leaves only a few options.

1. CB itself is bad.... Swap with another one to test.
2. Wire from CB to WH is open.... Check for continuity from CB to outlet.
3. 120V Outlet is bad....check outlet.

naturist wrote:
Has the electric element burned out? If that element was ever turned on when the tank was empty, it will burn out the heater in a couple seconds. Or less.

If you have a VOM, you can check both that the element is getting power, and whether it is burned out. If it is intact, the resistance across the element will be low, a few ohms. If it is burned out, it will show infinite resistance.

I have checked the element with an extension cord in another outlet and it is working.

Has the electric element burned out? If that element was ever turned on when the tank was empty, it will burn out the heater in a couple seconds. Or less.

If you have a VOM, you can check both that the element is getting power, and whether it is burned out. If it is intact, the resistance across the element will be low, a few ohms. If it is burned out, it will show infinite resistance.

downtheroad wrote:
Are you absolutely sure it is not on a GFI?
I think that would be unusual.

No It's not on a GFI

jwmII wrote:
Maybe it is not the outlet at all. Some Atwoods with Atwoods electric heating element came with a switch on the back of the water heater that had to be on. Then the RV manufacturer further complicated things many times by installing another switch usually in the wall somewhere close to the kitchen counter or they put it on the front facia of the kitchen cabinets. So you not only have breakers and an outlet to checkout but possibly 2 controlling switches.

I checked the switches they are working

Maybe it is not the outlet at all. Some Atwoods with Atwoods electric heating element came with a switch on the back of the water heater that had to be on. Then the RV manufacturer further complicated things many times by installing another switch usually in the wall somewhere close to the kitchen counter or they put it on the front facia of the kitchen cabinets. So you not only have breakers and an outlet to checkout but possibly 2 controlling switches.

Are you absolutely sure it is not on a GFI?
I think that would be unusual.