Auto Park Brake Issue or Not?

[Paleo]

Just purchased a 96' Winnebago Adventurer 32 on the Chevy chassis. During the test drive, when I tried to put the RV in reverse, the auto park brake would engage and you would have to wiggle the shifter to make it disengage. When u stop, and shift into reverse or any other gear, u can hear the pump whine, then the light goes off, so I figured it needs some maintenance, not a big deal.

Well, I drove it to the storage unit, and when I got to the storage unit (and even before then really), I could hear some brake squeel coming from the rear and maybe an ever-so-slight drag. When I hopped out, there was a small amount of smoke coming from the rear tire rims, so I assumed the brakes must be dragging some from not being used, again, nothing a little maintenance shouldn't take care of.

However, when I got home I started googling and reading horror stories about how these auto park brakes get chewed up and cost $4k to fix, I'm really freaked out now. From what I understand though, the smoke couldn't have been caused by the auto park brake b/c that's closer to the front of the rig correct? It seems there is some fluid or something that is sticking to the rear wheels, is this indicative of something other than just bad brakes? (PIC)



I was going to drive it to my mechanics but now am unsure if I should try to drive it for fear of causing major damage b/c of the APB, am I overthinking this if the light is off when I am in drive and the rig seems to roll fine? Should I have it towed instead and if I do, do I need to tell the tow operator to drop the driveshaft to prevent damage b/c of the APB?

Thanks for indulging in my paranoia 😄

[wolfe10]

Roger is THE MAN. Be sure you/your mechanic use him to help diagnose. He knows more about the autopark system than any 100 "normal" RV techs. Will save you a lot of $$ and headaches.

[Paleo]

Thanks, I've messaged Roger, he suggested ofc that I do the work myself, which ofc I would, could I afford the half a million+ home you have to pay for in the DFW area to have a piece of land big enough that an HOA will allow u to even have an RV at your house. Unfortunately I live in a major metropolitan area, as do all my friends and every storage facility I've ever checked has a strict "no working on your vehicles here" policy.

So, mostly I'm trying to educate myself enough that I don't get screwed over by a mechanic. I actually called my trusted auto mechanic but he can't work on RV's due to his insurance regulations and a couple other places I called said they couldn't do it b/c it wouldn't fit in their bays or also insurance.

Anyway, I ended up taking it to a place in Denton TX that seems to have a good reputation, Danny's RV repair, but the wait is like 2 weeks b4 they can even get to it. If anyone in the DFW area has a pad big enough I can park it on and work on it myself, I'd ofc love to learn to take care of this myself. It seems I actually have a p32 chasis and I'm 99% sure I have the version II autopark.

[tropical36]

Paleo wrote:
Just purchased a 96' Winnebago Adventurer 32 on the Chevy chassis. During the test drive, when I tried to put the RV in reverse, the auto park brake would engage and you would have to wiggle the shifter to make it disengage. When u stop, and shift into reverse or any other gear, u can hear the pump whine, then the light goes off, so I figured it needs some maintenance, not a big deal.

Well, I drove it to the storage unit, and when I got to the storage unit (and even before then really), I could hear some brake squeel coming from the rear and maybe an ever-so-slight drag. When I hopped out, there was a small amount of smoke coming from the rear tire rims, so I assumed the brakes must be dragging some from not being used, again, nothing a little maintenance shouldn't take care of.

However, when I got home I started googling and reading horror stories about how these auto park brakes get chewed up and cost $4k to fix, I'm really freaked out now. From what I understand though, the smoke couldn't have been caused by the auto park brake b/c that's closer to the front of the rig correct? It seems there is some fluid or something that is sticking to the rear wheels, is this indicative of something other than just bad brakes? (PIC)

I was going to drive it to my mechanics but now am unsure if I should try to drive it for fear of causing major damage b/c of the APB, am I overthinking this if the light is off when I am in drive and the rig seems to roll fine? Should I have it towed instead and if I do, do I need to tell the tow operator to drop the driveshaft to prevent damage b/c of the APB?

Thanks for indulging in my paranoia 😄

A lot of stabbing in the dark here, so what you first need, is a lot of education, concerning the autopark systems and hopefully Roger, the AP guru, will be getting back to you shortly with a day's reading of material and advice. Most likely your problem with reverse is with having the cam type actuator, which you can see, but not reach, by lying on your back down under the steering column. Most have tied a rag on a stick and coated it with grease for lubing such. In addition, many install a momentary bypass switch on the steering column inside, for assistance in these situations. Do a search here for tons of threads on that and other AP issues.
Firstly, you should be finding out if you have the self contained version III or not and even though you have the earlier manual foot pedal.
Lastly, be wary of any mechanic that doesn't have prior AP experience and another reason for educating yourself, whether you do your own work or not.
The horror stories that you've heard about with the AP system, come mostly from said lack of education, not having spare parts on board and with would be professionals working on them, who shouldn't be and for whether or not, they're clueless or realize that you are and then decide on taking you for a monetary ride.
Your rear wheel problem with whatever that is and might be leaking there, has nothing whatsoever to do with the AP system, which is a drum brake on the drive shaft, behind the transmission.

[Romer1]

Transmission fluid level, maybe???

[bsinmich]

Did you take it to a RV shop? In most cases an independent mechanic will get to it quicker and less expensive. You have a mechanical problem, not an RV problem.

[Paleo]

Haven't tried to use just the Ebrake yet, I took it to a repair shop today, the bad news is that it seemed to not want to shift out of 2nd on the way there, so I may have much larger issues to contend with. Worse yet, being peak RV season it seems, they can't even look at it for 2 weeks so now I get to have stomach ulcers for the next two weeks wondering if the RV we saved 2 years for was a complete waste of $$. It drove just fine on the test ride, so just my luck if the transmission is shot at 56k miles, exactly 2 days after I bought it 😞

[Romer1]

Had a'94 Adventurer. No resistance on parking brake means the cable to the APB needs adjusting.

Would recommend you buy "The Little Green Switch" now and have it as a spare in case you ever need it.

[John_Wayne]

I could be wrong BUT if you have to push an emergency brake pedal you don't have Auto Park.

[Gjac]

No resistance on the Emergency Brake would mean your shoes need to be adjusted. Will they hold on a hill?

[Paleo]

donhoward49 wrote:
If its the Auto Park, email this guy for expert advise on repairs

oldusedbear11@charter.net

great, I've sent him an email as well, thanks!

[donhoward49]

If its the Auto Park, email this guy for expert advise on repairs

oldusedbear11@charter.net

[Paleo]

I did notice it seemed to have less braking power than I anticipated, so the whole gear lube scenario seems to fit. If I need new bearings, is this an expensive job?

[rekoj71]

X3 on agreeing with Mountain Air. That axle/gear lube probably hit the brake, hence the smoke. You have less braking power due to oil on the brakes if you try to drive it. Doubt it would catch fire though. I'd look on the inside side of the inboard tire and see if it's leaking there also to know how bad it might be.

[Paleo]

Great, thanks for the heads up, I'll check behind the axles tomorrow to see if I can see the lube, so that's a no-go on the drive it to mechanic to have it looked at? I should have it towed instead?

Also, I forgot to mention, when I apply the foot emergency brake pedal, there is almost no resistance, is that normal or does that indicate an APB problem?

And as far as the adjustment for the microswitch, would installing a new one fix the issue or is it only adjustment that can fix it?

Also, as far as the APB, even if that's not the problem now, they seem to be notorious for leaving people stranded. I read they can be rebuilt for ~ $400 (plus I imagine a couple hundred bucks in labor to have mechanic remove and reinstall), is this an investment I should make b4 I even think about taking this 20 year old RV out? (it has 56k miles btw).

Oh, and one last noob question, as far as removing the covers, just pop them off with a tire tool? I dont want to wreck them, lol.