Best shocks for Class C RV?

[monchichi6]

Greetings,

I'm replacing my shock absorbers on my '89 Born Free 24ft RV (on a Ford E350 chassis). Price quoted for Monroes (install and parts) is coming in around $780.00.

1) Are there better shocks to consider for an RV my size (the rear dual axle carries a heavier load as the kitchen and bathroom are in rear)

2) Is this a good time to have stabilizers installed while they are under there?

Perhaps I should start with the alignment and shocks and see if has a significant improvement in driver fatigue and the sway and bobbing?

Any insight is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[monchichi6]

j-d wrote:
Glad the shocks helped. With only the possible exception of the new Koni FSD's, every shock I've read about has its fans and its detractors.
Weigh it and adjust front tire pressure according to actual scale weight.
Check for looseness (steering wheel play) in the steering gear box.
Be sure the fiber coupling from steering shaft to gear box isn't worn out.
Check four bushings. Two at inner axle ends (where they mount to cross member), and two where radius arms mount to chassis rails.
Be sure the front wheels are Toe IN (1/8" to 1/4") but absolutely not OUT. Sounds odd, but with the Toe corrected, the steering had much less of the "loose" feeling. I could sense improvement before I even got in the freeway.
Your chassis has a Kingpin Front End, not Ball Joints like later ones. I doubt the kingpins are worn out, but...
Do check for looseness in the rest of the steering linkage components.
Your chassis has the potential to drive better than the newer ones.

That's great info, thank you! I'm having a great time tinkering and learning about my old new rig. I love my old little RV 🙂

[j-d]

Glad the shocks helped. With only the possible exception of the new Koni FSD's, every shock I've read about has its fans and its detractors.
Weigh it and adjust front tire pressure according to actual scale weight.
Check for looseness (steering wheel play) in the steering gear box.
Be sure the fiber coupling from steering shaft to gear box isn't worn out.
Check four bushings. Two at inner axle ends (where they mount to cross member), and two where radius arms mount to chassis rails.
Be sure the front wheels are Toe IN (1/8" to 1/4") but absolutely not OUT. Sounds odd, but with the Toe corrected, the steering had much less of the "loose" feeling. I could sense improvement before I even got in the freeway.
Your chassis has a Kingpin Front End, not Ball Joints like later ones. I doubt the kingpins are worn out, but...
Do check for looseness in the rest of the steering linkage components.
Your chassis has the potential to drive better than the newer ones.

[monchichi6]

pnichols wrote:

monchichi6 wrote:
Spoke to Koni and they do not make shocks for the '89 year.

Hmmm ... I wonder what's so different in the suspensions between a 1989 E350 and a newer E350 such that the current Koni FSD shocks for E350 models wouldn't just bolt right onto a 1989 E350?

I'm not sure that what the Koni rep told you is true in an absolute sense. They might have been merely quoting their published literature on what E350 models their shocks have either actually been tried on or been dimensionally verified on for Ford E350 suspension drawings from later than 1989 models.

Unfortunately, the current Koni FSD shocks for the E350 just might have fit fine on your 1989.

Bummer. Well, Monroes are a huge improvement. But still feel the bobbing, and need to have the play in the wheel addressed. Going back to talk to the head mechanic. I just want a nice ride. And now that I have figured out that I am just driving a big ole bus, it's been easier to drive. I sit on top of the steering wheel basically. It's a great look. 😉

[monchichi6]

j-d wrote:
OP - When we had a 1984 24-ft rear bath Class C on E350, it wasn't older "then" than yours is "now." By then I mean when we added a leaf to the rear springs. The leaves were called "Repair Leaves" and are sold by thickness and width. Have to be cut to length, and they do NOT come with a Center Hole. It all went well except drilling for the Center Bolt. Spring shops have an "Ironworker" machine that can punch the holes. Even shear the leaves down to correct length. Shop we bought our leaves from said their machine was down. Maybe they wanted to punish us for not using them for the whole job... We bought a special bit at a commercial tool supply and barely drilled the two holes (one each side) before the bit was shot. The Length can be adjusted with Torch, Carborundum Blade, maybe even Bi-Metal Hacksaw.
Our 1983 chassis was 18 years old/90000 miles when we got it. Rear sagged slightly and the Leaves were a huge improvement. I think we spent about $175 on parts back then. Leaves, Center Bolts, U-Bolts, Drill Bit. Another huge improvement parts-wise was new hard plastic end link kits for the OEM front sway bar. We never did the center bushings and never added anything at the rear but those leaves. The other "Big Thing" was we found the TOE was Way Out and set it to a Little IN. Another huge difference.
I did a few other things but those improvements were incremental not dramatic like above: New Front Axle Bushings (Axle to Frame, Radius Arm to Frame), Rebuilt Steering Box (mostly because ours was leaking), New Front Shocks from CarQuest (probably re-boxed Monroe Magnum Gas RV shocks).
I decided a previous owner (we were fourth) had changed rear shocks but not fronts. They were NOT all that hard to change. The 1992+ is much more difficult.
I tried to find a listing/pic of a "Repair Leaf" and all I found was complete spring packs. Made me wonder if "Helper Springs" like might do same as adding a Repair Leaf. The Helpers are designed for DIY installation, but I just don't know if the outcome would be as good as an additional leaf right in the pack. I DO know that there might be clearance/interference issues in a motorhome installation. Lotta stuff under there!

Thanks for this info! Very insightful.

[monchichi6]

Very interesting. I love cars and wish I had taken auto shop. Maybe it's never to late to learn but it's at least good to know this stuff. Thank you!

[j-d]

Haven't seen specs or drawings, but 1977-1991 was the same kingpin front axle, then 1992-2007 is ball joint. 2008-16 is slightly different ball joint but same shocks. I suspect the shocks for kingpin might be shorter than for ball joint.

[pnichols]

monchichi6 wrote:
Spoke to Koni and they do not make shocks for the '89 year.

Hmmm ... I wonder what's so different in the suspensions between a 1989 E350 and a newer E350 such that the current Koni FSD shocks for E350 models wouldn't just bolt right onto a 1989 E350?

I'm not sure that what the Koni rep told you is true in an absolute sense. They might have been merely quoting their published literature on what E350 models their shocks have either actually been tried on or been dimensionally verified on for Ford E350 suspension drawings from later than 1989 models.

Unfortunately, the current Koni FSD shocks for the E350 just might have fit fine on your 1989.

[monchichi6]

Hey everyone, this just in. Spoke to Koni and they do not make shocks for the '89 year. Looks like I'm going with the Monroes and will see how those go. Once I establish a repeat business relationship with this RV mechanic, I'll be more creative when it comes to purchasing my own parts and having delivered to their shop to avoid the high markup. Also, I understand you sometimes have to pay the premium price to get the parts locally (vs. searching online and it taking longer to ship).

Per the mechanic, the Bilsteins of yester yore (made in Germany) are gone and they are made in Mexico? But couldn't seem to tell where Monroes are manufactured either. Their parent company is headquartered in Long Beach, CA FYI.

You guys are the best. Thank you for all your help on this decision! I won't hold you liable. haha 🙂

[Snowman9000]

I replaced my Chevy shocks with the Konis when the Chevy shocks were two years old with 10,000 miles on them. They were not worn out at all.

I did not want to spend $600+ on the Konis, but the reviews swayed me. I'm glad I spent the money. I installed them myself, which is not too bad on a Chevy. I hear the Fords are a little harder to do.

[pnichols]

Replacing your existing shocks with the Koni FSD technology shocks is a different situation than merely replacing old shocks with new shocks - because of the way that the FSD shocks dampen with respect to standard shocks.

Knowing now (after having put up with the stock shocks so long) how well the FSD technology works - I should have replaced the Ford shocks soon after buying our new RV. I finally figured out that what we needed back in the rear from our shocks was "no shock action at all" to soften (via their high frequency damping response) the sharp jolts from potholes and highway cracks ... and "stiff shock action" for control (via their low frequency damping response) on curves, going over curbs, parking lot entering/exiting, and rolling road dips. The Koni FSD shocks are designed to dampen differently (via high frequency or low frequency response) in these two different scenarios.

[jjrbus]

tpi wrote:

I am also unimpressed by someone saying I put Brand X on and I cannot believe the difference. Replacing old worn out shocks with even the cheapest Chinese junk will make a huge difference!

This is a valid point but I want to insure it isn't applied to my experience. The Ford shocks I replaced with superior Konis had about 12K miles on them and were performing as new. Loose shock control was noted from the first.

Thanks for that clarification, unusual for me to hear someone replacing newer shocks. Jim

[JesseJ1826]

I replaced the Ford Stuff with Monroes at about 100000 KM, saw no difference whatsoever with the ride at the rear, slight improvement at the front which lasted about 10000 KM. Don't waste your money on Monroes.

[klutchdust]

Koni FSD shocks installed (updates) Well i tried to do a link but this is a good read....my coach is so much better.

[j-d]

OP - When we had a 1984 24-ft rear bath Class C on E350, it wasn't older "then" than yours is "now." By then I mean when we added a leaf to the rear springs. The leaves were called "Repair Leaves" and are sold by thickness and width. Have to be cut to length, and they do NOT come with a Center Hole. It all went well except drilling for the Center Bolt. Spring shops have an "Ironworker" machine that can punch the holes. Even shear the leaves down to correct length. Shop we bought our leaves from said their machine was down. Maybe they wanted to punish us for not using them for the whole job... We bought a special bit at a commercial tool supply and barely drilled the two holes (one each side) before the bit was shot. The Length can be adjusted with Torch, Carborundum Blade, maybe even Bi-Metal Hacksaw.
Our 1983 chassis was 18 years old/90000 miles when we got it. Rear sagged slightly and the Leaves were a huge improvement. I think we spent about $175 on parts back then. Leaves, Center Bolts, U-Bolts, Drill Bit. Another huge improvement parts-wise was new hard plastic end link kits for the OEM front sway bar. We never did the center bushings and never added anything at the rear but those leaves. The other "Big Thing" was we found the TOE was Way Out and set it to a Little IN. Another huge difference.
I did a few other things but those improvements were incremental not dramatic like above: New Front Axle Bushings (Axle to Frame, Radius Arm to Frame), Rebuilt Steering Box (mostly because ours was leaking), New Front Shocks from CarQuest (probably re-boxed Monroe Magnum Gas RV shocks).
I decided a previous owner (we were fourth) had changed rear shocks but not fronts. They were NOT all that hard to change. The 1992+ is much more difficult.
I tried to find a listing/pic of a "Repair Leaf" and all I found was complete spring packs. Made me wonder if "Helper Springs" like might do same as adding a Repair Leaf. The Helpers are designed for DIY installation, but I just don't know if the outcome would be as good as an additional leaf right in the pack. I DO know that there might be clearance/interference issues in a motorhome installation. Lotta stuff under there!