Broken Trimark RV door lock (06-650)

[dufferdj]

I went out to our 2010 Jayco Melbourne and when I tried to unlock the door to the coach, I found that it would NOT unlock. I then entered the RV by way of the Ford E-450 entry door. I tried to open the coach door from the inside, only to find out that the deadbolt would unlock, BUT the latch assembly would not retract allowing the door to open.
After looking on this website I found that I am not the only one to have this problem. Had there been a need to evacuate the RV in a hurry due to any emergency, that locked door would have delayed our exit --- definitely a safety issue.
Now that I know what the problem is --- I need help fixing it. A part in the latch assembly is broken, preventing the door from opening. I ordered a replacement door lock and tried to remove the old, defective lock. Although there are only 3 screws holding the 2 parts of the lock "sandwich" together, when those screws are removed, the screen door and the door jamb prevent the removal of the inside panel.
I contacted the manufacturer of the Trimark lock and they e-mailed a diagram of the lock. It only shows which part is broken --- not how to remove the defective lock.
Can any of you that may have had this same problem explain/have access to u-tube info on how to remove the old lock? Even a photo of the inner works of the door lock might help.
Thanks in advance...

[dufferdj]

Thanks to all that sent in info or that have been following this thread. After drilling about 20+ 1/4" holes to create a large hole, I could see the spring that held the latch into the door jamb. Yesterday I returned to the scene of the crime and drilled another hole into the center part of the lock so that I could get a pair of needle-nose pliers in to grab and remove the spring. Once the spring was removed, that took the pressure off of the latch. I went to the outside of the door with one of those metal tooth picks, like the dentist might use, or that I use to clean the dog's teeth, and I was able to slowly slide the latch back into the lock ---wha-la the door would now open.
I removed the three screws holding the lock "sandwich" together, removed the plate where the deadbolt, latch and alignment bolts protrude and then I could pull the lock out from the outside to the coach.
Unfortunately the new, replacement lock, 1650 is not an exact fit. I had to file and grind parts of the old opening to enlarge it slightly to fit the new lock, and the old striker plate had to be replaced, resulting in drilling new holes in the door jamb to align with the new latch and deadbolt.
Thanks to a couple of friends that stopped by --- a couple of extra pairs of eyes and brains definitely helped. I finished up just as it was getting too dark to see. Now the new locks works.

[IAMICHABOD]

Clicky

[Harvey51]

I posted on this in another thread on this; I think I have the same lock. I posted a couple of pictures, post 9.
If I recall correctly, just take out the three screws from the inside (torx T15) and the outside cover falls off. Then you can disable or remove the mechanism in the cover that locks the door via the lower key hole or red handle inside.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28532383/gotomsg/28542644.cfm#28542644

[Johno02]

duffert, do look to see if you have a facing around the door frame! if so, it is a lot easier to remove the facing, which will expose the striker plate and latch bolt. Then just push it with a screwdriver, and the door is open. You are going to have to replace the striker plate anyway. You are right, there is no way to get a blade or anything between the door and the frame, which is NOT what I am telling you. The facing is part of the wall next to the door, and concels the gap between the door FRAME and the wall.

[dufferdj]

Thanks for all the info so far. From the inside of the coach, the door lock has the striker side/latch assembly side pinched between the door and the screen door/door jamb. There is no way to get a screwdriver in there to force the spring loaded watch back. I do have a schematic of the lock from Trimark and the new replacement 1650 lock but neither tells the whole story. I have currently drilled about 20 1/4th inch holes in a circle from the inside of the lock and created 1 fairly large hole so I can now see inside of the lock. It appears that if I drill a couple more holes near the spring behind the latch, remove the spring, I should be able to use an awl/screwdriver to move the latch inward and out of the way.

[Johno02]

And, if you have the older Trimark 0650 latch, odds are that it will happen!

[Johno02]

Not knowing about many coaches, but generally there is a trim strip or facing around the door on the inside. It is usually just glued or tacked in place, as it is added after the door in installed, to cover the gap. Behind that, you can see the lock striker plate, with the door latch sticking in it. I used a bent scredriver to reach in and push the latch back enough for the door to open. When replacing the lock, the striker plate has to come out from the inside to be replaced with the new one. The newer Trimark 1650 lock will not fit the older striker plate, so that is part of the job. So the whole secret is getting to the door jam and striker plate from the inside. Even if you can get the inside plate of the lock off from the inside, the latch assembly will not come out unless the door is opened. Hope this helps someone else, Its always nice to pass help forward.

[IAMICHABOD]

Johno02 wrote:
StarkNaked : I did learn that there is a simple way to get the door open if you are inside, and will be glad to share if anyone asks. There are a lot harder ways, and I know those also. Found the simple way after two days trying the hard way.

OK.. I'm asking,I would like to know for future reference,in case it happens to me or someone else out there.

[Johno02]

Just like I said, if you only have one door, leave one window closed, but unlocked. Maybe not the same one every time. Whatever.

[bukhrn]

Exact same thing happened to ours on or Western trip this year, when the door was shut, it picked that exact time for the bolt to break, which prevented the latch from disengaging the bolt as it broke in half, I disassembled the entire lock/latch mechanism and removed the broken bolt, then reinstalled the assembly and used the dead bolt to lock and unlock the door, until we could get to a Camping World where they stocked a replacement assembly.

[Johno02]

StarkNaked : If you also have this lock on your rig, first keep it well lubricated by using a canned spray with one of the little pipes to get it inside. Next, ALWAYS leave at least one window unlocked whenever you go out. That way, you can get back inside to fix the lock without breaking a window. If you have another door, that is great! I did learn that there is a simple way to get the door open if you are inside, and will be glad to share if anyone asks. There are a lot harder ways, and I know those also. Found the simple way after two days trying the hard way.

[Johno02]

Looks like my last post did not make it. It is very easy to push the latch bar back and open the door from inside the motor home. I know, I have been locked in twice, in different motorhomes, and have replaced the lockc on both. worst case is that you may have to drill the lock from inside to get to the latch, but then it is easy to release it with a screwdriver. If you will post pictures of the door and lock from inside, I can tell you more about how to do it.

[dufferdj]

The deadbolt works fine. It is the spring loaded latch that is causing the problem.

[StarkNaked]

dufferdj wrote:
When I turn the key to the lock you can feel NO resistance so I'm confident that a part is broken inside. The people from Trimark agreed. Some how I need to get into the latch assembly and get it to retract. Thanks for the input so far and hopefully this will have a happy ending.

Which one is broken? The deadbolt or the spring loaded latch?

If its the deadbolt, you may be able to slide it back by using some sort of flat bar between the door and the frame.