Went out to winterize my 2004 Holiday Rambler Endeavor yesterday. Started removing the water heater plug/ anode and it was a little stiff to remove but nothing bad. When I got it out the anode rod portion was still inside the heater, only the fatter plug part unscrewed. I had no idea that the anode rod was threaded on the end and was screwed into the plug and it appears to be tack welded on the end. I can not get the rod out, any suggestions?? The one picture below with the red arrow is not my plug buy an example of what I had before it broke the other two are what I am dealing with. I have had RV's for 20 years and have pulled the plug 20 times, never had this happen to me.. Any suggestions would be great...

Maybe that part is just stuck with crud. It seems as though the nut would have been doing all the holding and that part is now just stuck. As Mike brea said a little pressure with vise grips and maybe a slight tap tap tap on the end just to try and break it loose. Less may be more. Spray with penetrating oil.

The gas valve part number 93845 looks like an Atwood part number and the coupling welded into the tank looks to be aluminum.Only thing that the item looks somewhat like is a Hott Rod element. They are steel so it has seized against the aluminum. I would locate some strong chemical and spray(Liquid Wrench type) it into the area. Maybe even try to block it from draining out.You can see somewhat in the rod replacement how it came apart.Hott Rod

As already suggested, grab it with vice grips and try and pull it out. Maybe spin it a little to break it free. The worst you can do is ruin your water heater, but if you don't get it out you're going to be replacing your water heater anyway.

Had one do the same on an Atwood heater. Took a punch and drove it into the heater. Don't know why someone puts an anode rod in a heater that does not require one. Atwood comes with a nylon plug and states in directions to replace with nylon.

broken water plug / anode | Good Sam Community

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Dec 04, 2015
After you get that rod out.........chase the drain hole threads with a 1/2" NPT nipple to clean them up, get a new nylon drain plug and don't put an anode rod back in that Atwood WH.
wolfe10
Explorer
Dec 04, 2015
rgatijnet1 wrote:
Put a nut and washer on the threaded portion that is sticking out. As you tighten the nut, it will tend to pull the rod out.

EXCELLENT idea. Be sure to use a large enough washer that it contacts the whole surface of the tank around the threads.

And use a thick enough washer that it does not deform, but allows you to pull loose the anode.
rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Dec 04, 2015
Put a nut and washer on the threaded portion that is sticking out. As you tighten the nut, it will tend to pull the rod out.
enblethen
Nomad
Dec 04, 2015
You could try threading a nut onto the threads. This would or may give you something better to grab on to.
Old Biscuit: I haven't seen the threaded rods in some time, but it could be.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Dec 04, 2015
enblethen wrote:
The gas valve part number 93845 looks like an Atwood part number and the coupling welded into the tank looks to be aluminum.
Only thing that the item looks somewhat like is a Hott Rod element. They are steel so it has seized against the aluminum. I would locate some strong chemical and spray(Liquid Wrench type) it into the area. Maybe even try to block it from draining out.
You can see somewhat in the rod replacement how it came apart.
Hott Rod

Does look like an Atwood gas valve and drain. Plus just above burner tube you can see foam tape that covers the t-stats on an Atwood WH :H

Anode rods can be difficult to remove due to deposits on them BUT they do not have that size of shaft. The shafts on anode rods is just a steel rod and the sacrificial material (aluminum or magnesium) is formed around that steel rod.

But some of the magnesium anode rods are 'threaded' design.

Grab the threaded end with vice grips and twist it out of there.
Then turn on water supply and blast the junk/debris out
happy-2
Explorer
Dec 04, 2015
After soaking it with penetrating oil, drill the shaft and use the biggest easy out you can find,
katysdad
Explorer
Dec 04, 2015
Had one do the same on an Atwood heater. Took a punch and drove it into the heater. Don't know why someone puts an anode rod in a heater that does not require one. Atwood comes with a nylon plug and states in directions to replace with nylon.
msmith1199
Explorer II
Dec 04, 2015
As already suggested, grab it with vice grips and try and pull it out. Maybe spin it a little to break it free. The worst you can do is ruin your water heater, but if you don't get it out you're going to be replacing your water heater anyway.
enblethen
Nomad
Dec 04, 2015
The gas valve part number 93845 looks like an Atwood part number and the coupling welded into the tank looks to be aluminum.
Only thing that the item looks somewhat like is a Hott Rod element. They are steel so it has seized against the aluminum. I would locate some strong chemical and spray(Liquid Wrench type) it into the area. Maybe even try to block it from draining out.
You can see somewhat in the rod replacement how it came apart.
Hott Rod
azrving
Explorer
Dec 04, 2015
Maybe that part is just stuck with crud. It seems as though the nut would have been doing all the holding and that part is now just stuck. As Mike brea said a little pressure with vise grips and maybe a slight tap tap tap on the end just to try and break it loose. Less may be more. Spray with penetrating oil.

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