I did find Rich's thread on Winterizing for warmish climates, and it was helpful.But we live in a rural area with somewhat frequent power outages, and we want to leave our RV prepared for use all winter. I don't mind blowing out the water lines and draining the water heater, but our puzzle is that we need to leave the fresh water tank full. We're on a well, and when our power's out, our water's out.The RV stays plugged into a 30-watt power source. I do have two 150-watt heaters plugged into Thermocubes, so they should keep the RV above 35 degrees inside.I even contemplated keeping the water heater on, but it seems silly to keep it on for the winter months when we may only use it one or two nights.Temps here will drop into the teens occasionally and rarely into single digits. I can pour some antifreeze down the holding tanks if necessary, but they also have tank heaters. It makes me wonder why the fresh water tank has no heater, but .... I digress.Does this sound workable?

Takes a lot of cold for a long time to freeze 50 or more gallons of water.

We are here in Central Ga about 1.5 hours East of Atlanta and have been doing that for the past 4 years.I open the water spigots and add RV pink to the holding tanks.Fresh water stays full.I do not drain the hot-water tank. It is insulated when manufactured.I keep a small electric heater inside that comes on at 40 Degrees.Needless to say the RV stays plugged in to the house currant with a contractor grade cord.The RV points east to get the morning sun on the windshield and all blinds are up. I stuffed the vent areas with insulation to block out cold.I also open the cabinet doors so the heat from the portable heater will circulate. You may also want to check under the cabinets for openings to theoutside that will let the cold in and plug them.This has worked down to 6 degrees several different times and frequently into the teens.

Where is the fresh water tank located in the RV? Often it's "inside" the RV, say underneath a bed, and hence heated by the general RV heating system. The holding tanks have heaters because they're more outside the living portion of the RV.If you drain the water heater, and blow out the lines if they're located where they'd be prone to freeze, I think your plan should be fine. You may need more than 300W worth of heaters to maintain the temperature during really cold weather, and it would be worthwhile to do the usual simple insulating things for the roof vents and windows etc. RVs do vary somewhat in how tight and well insulated they are (or aren't).

I would not leave the tank full. 3/4 at most. There needs to be room to expand if the water does turn to ice.

I have thought of using a heater that makes a lot of warm air, like a Vornado, and having that placed beneath the rig. Downside is what to do if it rains or water gets underneath. Even with a GFCI plug, it isn't wise. However, if there is a way to elevate it so basic water runoff wouldn't touch it, it might be an idea to ensure the tanks stay above freezing.

Can I leave the RV ready for use all winter? | Good Sam Community

ECones
Explorer
Dec 28, 2015
ericsmith32 wrote:
ECones.. you were thinking along the same lines as we are! I winterized in November which was way too early. We dry camp more in the cooler months since it's easier and don't have to run the AC.. so no showers unless we stay at a campground. Our tanks are also underneath but all of them have heating pads.

If we go anywhere else before March I'm going to clean out the pipes and refill the water heater. I'll leave antifreeze in the fresh water underneath. We have 3 big 5 gallon water jugs and will suck the water from those. On our Jayco it has that feature, not sure if all them do. Have to find a electric heater that goes lower than 60 though.

Water tanks are fairly cheap so going to put one under the dinette or the back sofa's this year. Winter is the best time to camp!

Eric, regarding finding a heater that goes below 60, I plugged them into Thermocubes <-- click.

I've got two 1500 watt heaters plugged into them in plugs that I know are on different breakers. If either gets below 35 degrees, that heater will come on until that Thermocube is about 45 degrees.
ericsmith32
Explorer
Dec 27, 2015
ECones.. you were thinking along the same lines as we are! I winterized in November which was way too early. We dry camp more in the cooler months since it's easier and don't have to run the AC.. so no showers unless we stay at a campground. Our tanks are also underneath but all of them have heating pads.

If we go anywhere else before March I'm going to clean out the pipes and refill the water heater. I'll leave antifreeze in the fresh water underneath. We have 3 big 5 gallon water jugs and will suck the water from those. On our Jayco it has that feature, not sure if all them do. Have to find a electric heater that goes lower than 60 though.

Water tanks are fairly cheap so going to put one under the dinette or the back sofa's this year. Winter is the best time to camp!
Jim_Shoe
Explorer
Dec 25, 2015
Here in Cincinnati, I store my 'C' and a Jeep toad in a heated building that I own. This year, I haven't really needed it though. We had a few snow flurries one day, but the pavement was too warm for it to stick. Coldest this winter so far was in the high 30's one morning. Right now, at 10AM, its 53 outside.
ECones
Explorer
Dec 25, 2015
We do have an 8000 watt generator for the house. It'll run the well pump to give us water, but it won't run the water heater, electric stove, heat pump, etc. And I don't want to run it all night; it goes through gas too fast.

The RV has a 4000 watt generator that'll do everything we need out there. We always park the RV full of gas, and it'd take a while to use it down to a quarter tank where it shuts off.

Our rationale is that we could utilize the RV for a hot shower, cooking, and even sleep warm.

Our well water is very high iron and goes through a water softener for house water, but our outside water doesn't. Getting a hose from inside the house to the RV is a struggle. The outside water is chlorinated because of the way the system is designed, so we could fill it with outside water. But it'd be very high iron and smells bad. That's why we want to leave the fresh water tank full or near full. We just fill it at camp sites and drink bottled water.

It appears we should be fine with the fresh tank near full without draining the water heater or blowing out the lines if we can keep the temp around the kitchen, bathroom, and water inlet area above 35 degrees.

We'll throw some antifreeze down the waste tanks just to be sure.

Many thanks for the input.
hotbyte
Explorer
Dec 25, 2015
That is pretty much what we do except, as mentioned, only fill FW 2/3 or so. Since you are using electric heat and mentioned power outages, keep gas full for running generator, if you have one, and propane full for furnace.

I also open cabinet doors to get more heat under them.
Tvov
Explorer II
Dec 25, 2015
Have you looked into a generator? Both for home and camping? The issue you have is getting one big enough to run your well pump - depending on your setup, you may need a surprisingly large generator.
jerseyjim
Explorer
Dec 25, 2015
Avoid all that. Buy (quite) a few one-gallon containers of water...and put them in the bathtub/shower. Leave room for expansion (ice) and unscrew the tops.

Works for me. Some harsh winters, I winterize the motorhome in October but do the snowbird thing in January. Simply start it up, turn on the fridge (sometimes cold enough without turning it on, but I do anyway) pack it up and off y'go!

By the first nite (definitely the second) I'm in mild (above F32) then find an open campground south enough where the water is still turned on, I hook up the hose, flush the entire system and that's it. Off to AZ! Once, stopping overnight in Demming NM, the temp went down to F14. Unhooked the hose,kept the gray water valve open, kept a trickle of water going in both sinks...and made it! Needless to say I didn't sleep all that well that nite, but all turned out well.
Rolling_Condo
Explorer II
Dec 25, 2015
path1 wrote:
If I was on a well I would drain and re-fill my water about once a month. And sanitize twice as often. Our RV is also ready for us 24/7

I know that water being supplied from a municipality that has chlorine added can be safe up to 30 days under ideal conditions. In your case using well water I would research how much chlorine you would need to add for the volume that your tank holds.
I also agree with the poster that suggested not completely filling the tank in case it were to freeze.
Like you and many others my trailer is a big part of my emergency plan.
path1
Explorer
Dec 25, 2015
If I was on a well I would drain and re-fill my water about once a month. And sanitize twice as often. Our RV is also ready for us 24/7
Johno02
Explorer
Dec 25, 2015
Might check as see if there is a rental storage unit nearby with bays big enough for the RV and power to them. In your area, being inside will be a lot of protection, and with the addition of a heater on a thermostat inside that will pretty well take care of it. If the fresh tank is accessable from a storage bay, a 60-watt light bulb in a suitable clamp-on lampholder will maintain above freezing temps for the tank.