can not propane inside MH

I wonder...
Is it possible the previous owner had a problem with the propane sensor, and by-passed it with a switch? The reason I wonder this is because of all the RVs I have ever owned, I never had one that had a switch to control the propane solenoid valve (emergency shut off valve). That valve has been connected to a propane alarm in EVERY case where one was installed!
Of course, it is also possible that there was never an alarm installed, but the valve was installed with a new regulator, and the switch was put in to control it.
Either way, it appears it can NOT do what is is designed to do, which is shut off the propane in the event of a gas leak inside the coach, and alert the occupants to the leak.
Personally, I would either remove the solenoid valve (is is pretty much useless) or install a propane alarm and connect the valve properly.
But, that's just the way I think.
Good luck.

Glad you got it working.

I have it working now. From your suggestions I was able to find a switch that is a Sp/DT and replace it. The original was a single pull double through that also had a light built in. I found the switch bad and replaced. Once done it started working fine. Not sure what you call the switch but was told there would be one in line and so it was. It was burried undr the sink area. NOt sure why it had a light involved but possibly something prior owner did. Thanks again for all the help.
Bruce

guaranteed wrote:
... After reading all the help messages I believe it must be the leak detector or shutoff valve but as of now I can not find neither a leak detector or a solenoid, nor a shutoff valve.....

Did you try opening the valve slowly again? Just the first turn has to be slow. The safety valve may not really be visible, and is a inline pressure sensitive valve. If gas shoots down the line too quick, the valve senses it and closes. Closing the manual tank valve, waiting a few minutes and reopening it will reset the valve. I have had this happen after I ran the tank dry. The guy who filled it was a tech person. Even though he knew what was wrong, it took him 3 times to open it slow enough to prevent the valve from sensing too much flow and closing off. You can actually hear the valve thunk, if you know what you are listening for.

Also one should note that once my lines were empty, it took 3 restarts on my thermostat - meaning 9 furnace restarts to get the propane into the furnace to actually run.

Doesn't look like his purchase was from a dealer, so no PDI and the seller may not have been knowledgable about the propane connection either. For safety on a 27 year old unit, the LP system should be inspected by a dealer or propane company with the proper tools to check for leaks and proper regulator function and operating pressure. Parts and labor are cheap when it comes to a persons safety and well being.

I had an 87 pace arrow that had a slug in the tank for a safety, and it stuck , and would not open and the tank acted like it was full. It took 4 gas fill places to figure it out. It was old time MH dealer figured it out. While it was hung it would not work or fill. I was told you must have valve all the way open to fill. Just a thought.

Jim,, I have been driving this House for 8 years, in that time there was one Propane fill I did not witness.. ALL the others the pump jockey opened the visual liquid overfill indicator valve, ALL of them.

I have seen one portable filled where they did NOT open the valve.. It was not mine.

In the many years of trailering before I got this A.. They always opened the valve on the tank.. When I happened to be sitting at a review of the final examp for propane pump jockey certification (In Michigan at least they are certified before they pump. Also in South Carolina) they specifically had questions about that valve (Which is where I first heard it's proper name). and it is to be OPENED.

So I don't know where you are getting tanks filled. But I've seen it used for a lot of years. Going all the way back to when My dad was a Pump Tender on an oil well and I'd ride with the propane driver to open and close gates for him and direct him to the well which was just BEHIND our property (And accessed via our land).

Our 1998 Georgetown had the lp detector with the cutoff switch on it. Being floor level used to get bumped or turned off by nieces and nephews all the time. Woke up cold more than once wondering why the propane heater never turned on

Yes as mentioned in the last post I buy from a private party. Everything was working in it at that time. The only difference is I had him re-connect the original line back to the tank and I new there the tank was empty. After reading all the help messages I believe it must be the leak detector or shutoff valve but as of now I can not find neither a leak detector or a solenoid, nor a shutoff valve. The tank has to be shut off from one of the controls you mention and am trying to trace the system out. Thanks again for all the input. I realize it should probably go to a dealer/Shop but the bill would probably be more than the unit is worth. I will pursue the problem until I find the problem and at that point may be able to help someone else. Thanks again, I'm still looking.

JimM68 wrote:
For the newbies, a full tank of fuel and a full tank of propane should be considered part of the deal in any new or used NH purchase.

A PDI (pre delivery inspection) has not been done if your rig is not running on it's fuel and water.

Some motorhomes used to have propane switches, where the propane was off if the detector was off.

The right way to fill is to open the valve a lil bit and fill until the valve spits liquid propane, that is 80%.
Most places don't do this, they rely on their system to shutoff delivery at the proper pressure.

Propane can be dangerous stuff. If the dealer is close, going back there for a lil more PDI may be a good idea

This is a 1987 motorhome. No one said he bought it from a dealer, I seriously doubt he did since it was plumbed to an external tank when he first inspected it.