Carrying a Motorcycle with my 2000 Shasta Sprite?

[Johnny_Dearborn]

I’m interested in hauling a motorcycle on the back of my 22.5 foot Shasta Class C on a Ford E350 V10 chassis. The bike I’m looking at weighs about 400 lbs (Kawasaki KLS). I can’t find any info online about the vehicle’s towing capacity or the max tongue weight for the hitch. Anyone have any suggestions on how to figure this out? Is 400 lbs within the typical limit for a Class C of this size?

Any recommendations for carrier are appreciated as well. Thanks!

[Desert_Captain]

I've posted this pic before in other threads but thought the OP might not have seen it. This was taken just west of the Hoover Dam last summer as we were returning from our 3 week Yellowstone/Grand Teton trip:



:C

[ron_dittmer]

Johnny Dearborn wrote:
Thanks for all of the responses. I’m going to try trailering to start and the see how it goes.

Smart Move!

Our rig is very similar to yours in configuration, a 2007 E350-V10, the 158" wheel base, and 23'-8" over-all length. Our fresh water tank rests against the back wall. When filled, the front lightens up. A 400 pound motorcycle plus the hardware to hold it would be 3X my situation, so much worse.

Another matter to consider is your frame extension and hitch in back. Your rig is 20 years old. That implies the hitch is rated to pull 3500 pounds, and the tongue weight is rated at 350 pounds. Add in rust and fatigue, implementing your idea will likely become a serious matter.

If you have a place to store one, consider a small enclosed trailer, one that could also store other items you'd like to bring or transfer items inside that are typically in your way. U-Haul rents a real nice tiny enclosed trailer that might fit your cycle and more. Try that one on your first trip. If you like it, buy one like that.

[whemme]

Don’t do it. The Dana 70 rear axle on your E350 is only rated for a weight of 8500 lbs I believe. If your Class-C is 25’ or longer, you are probably near or over that weight limit already with your tanks full and other added items in your rear storage compartments. Check your rear axle weight at a truck scale. Adding 500 lbs to your rear hitch will (depending on your wheel base) will probably add 750 lbs weight to your rear axle and delete 250 lbs from your front axle.

[bobndot]

I had a front hitch and tote box on my previous rv.
Take measurements as to the height that the motorcycle body might sit. I don't know if it's a good idea or not to block or partially block the front airflow to the radiator and tranny cooler. Your first mountain climb on a summer day would be able to tell you best. Be prepared to clean it often with bug remover.
The other thing that comes to my mind is the placement of a front hitch . Some sit lower than others and you do not want to reduce your ground clearance entering and exiting driveways as well hilly intersections. Mine would hit curbs when I pulled head-into parking spots.
That's why I suggested to trailer it. I know its a pain to tow and park a trailer at times but I found it to work best.
I set up my trailer to also be a big closet, second bathroom and outdoor kitchen. I installed an awning on it. I used E-track fasteners on the interior walls to make easily removable shelves for storage which were installed above the bike .

[Dusty_R]

We've carried our bicycles on a front trailer hitch. The only problem is traveling after dark, they block your head lights some, not so bad on express ways.

[Johnny_Dearborn]

Thanks for all of the responses. I’m going to try trailering to start and the see how it goes. I’m also thinking about a front hitch. Any negatives to consider on that?

[Lumpty]

I carry a Kymco Agility 50 scooter on an aluminum Harbor Freight hitch rack behind my 24' E450 chassis Class C, for local transportation when needed. The scooter weighs 210 lbs and the rack about 50 lbs. There is not one bit of difference in the handling or steering with that load on my small house E450. No perceptible added squat on the rear scooter on vs. off. That comes with having 4500lbs of NCC.

That said, I would not carry any more than that 260 lbs of dead cantilevered weight on my unit, and certainly wouldn't do double that on an E350 with only 138" wheelbase and proportionally more rear overhang.

[carringb]

ndrorder wrote:
Here is a slightly different perspective. If the hitch and frame are rated to carry a tongue weight, it is rated for that rate whether it is bouncing or not .

Hitches are rated at a 8” load center for class 3 and smaller hitches, and a 14” load center for class 4 and up. A motorcycle carrier is double that, so the allowable tongue weight is effectively half.

Plus, that particular motorhome has a wheelbase ration of about 0.5, so the weight of the motorcycle and carrier will be removed from the front axle and added to the back. It might be ok on a E450, but the Dana 70 under the E350 will likely be overloaded.

Front hitch is the way go, besides a trailer. I’ve towed MANY miles with a Honda 650XL up front. I added driving lights to the rack to fill in headlight shadows, and turn signals as well. Vision is not obstructed, and it’s comforting to always have an eye on the bike. On the back, there always a lingering worry of “is it still there” especially after going over rough terrain.

[Tal_IL]

just be sure to secure it well 🙂

https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20294107_10104853745227680_4407669896392251492_n.jpg?_...

[bobndot]

Liability is not worth the risk. TRAILER it !

[ndrorder]

Here is a slightly different perspective. If the hitch and frame are rated to carry a tongue weight, it is rated for that rate whether it is bouncing or not - trailers do not glide on air. Being cantilevered does add to the effective load on the hitch but no more than the 2000 lbs from the front half of a trailer being pitched forward on the hitch from a dip in the road. Those affects would be taken care of in design. In a static sense, 500 lbs on the hitch would add 500 lbs to the axle plus with that wheelbase 250 to 300 lbs that the front axle became lighter. Again, if the manufacturer has provided the hitch rating, these extra loads have already been considered.

The problems in this scenario are finding a carrier that can handle 400 lbs and not weigh more than 100 lbs itself - if your hitch is rated at 500 lbs.

Also, if the rv is pictured in the signature, the short wheel base will accentuate the affects of the 500 lbs on the hitch. Be watchful for loose steering.

[valhalla360]

Get a small trailer...as others have said, it will put 1000lbs on the rear axle and take 500lb off the front axle.

[carringb]

That Shasta has a short wheelbase. I’d only consider carrying a motorcycle on the front.

[Desert_Captain]

I have to agree with Bordercollie… the solution is a small trailer. I am on my third MC trailer over the last 7 years and can assure they work/tow very well giving you far more options. 400 - 500 additional pounds on the rear end is a disaster waiting to happen… and it will.

Look at the Kendon line of folding trailers as they store vertically taking very little room in your garage. Used they can be had for around $1,200. My current and all time favorite is a nice 6 X 10' {8' tall} cargo trailer but they go for around $4K new and about half of that used. I have over 20,000 miles on the cargo trailer hauling my Indian Springfield, Polaris Rzr SXS, furniture, landscaping etc., they are really multi purpose.

:C