Circuits Tripped...

If you want a photo of how ours is attached, PM me.

We don't have that in our Itasca - but it sounds a great idea (especially as one of my main hobbies is cooking!)

We are going to have a handyman add some shelves etc that we need

We may well ask for some kind of hinged extension that would give us more space for food preparation

Chris

j-d wrote:
Some of those WinTasca's had a countertop extension allowing use of the doorway as kitchen surface. They might've stuck an outlet down in the entry to allow an appliance on that extension.

Yes. The OP and I each have that extension. It is very useful. DW will be inside the RV preparing stuff. I will be outside, setting up the picnic table. When something is ready to go outside, she sets it on that extension and taps the window over the sink. I then open the door and get it.

This for the OP:

BTW, the picture below does not look like you have a Parallax/Magnatek 7300 series converter. That looks like a Progressive Dynamics PD4600 series. Either PD4635, PD4645 or PD4655. I replaced my Parallax/Magnatec 7345 with a PD4655V.

OH, GOOD!

Hard to say what tripped it. Moisture in the outside outlet, sometimes an appliance will trip GFCI right when it's being turned on. We have a little fan that will trip GFCI if turned on when plugged in, but can be unplugged, turned on, then plugged in and it works. Go figure.

Glad you're running again!

OP,

Could be a good idea to disconnect from shore tie, turn inverter off if you have one, and then see if the wiring is tight on the back of that first breaker.

Still,

Bobbo very likely has the answer, GFI right at the entrance. Some of those WinTasca's had a countertop extension allowing use of the doorway as kitchen surface. They might've stuck an outlet down in the entry to allow an appliance on that extension.

Dusty,

"The Topele 20-Amp Weather-Resistant (WR) GFCI is UL Listed to Comply with The NEC Code Which Mandates All Receptacles Exposed to The Elements to Carry a 'Weather-Resistant' Rating. Built with UV Stabilized Engineering Thermoplastic for High Cold Impact Resistance, The WR GFCI Devices Feature Stainless Steel Straps and Mounting Screws, As Well As a Conformally Coated PC Board to Protect Critical Components From Moisture. This GFCI is Ideal for Exterior Use and Covers Must Be Used with WR GFCI Receptacles In Exterior Locations Per The NEC Code. The Device Combines Professional Grade Lockout Action with The Slimmest Profile on The Market. The Topele Weather-Resistant Slim GFCI is Also Available In a Tamper-Resistant Model to Help Protect Children From Electrical Hazards In Homes and Childcare Facilities."

I like the idea of "slim profile" since it's really hard to install a GFCI, a Timer or the like in a box with downstream wiring, etc.

Funny sometimes, though, a seller will advertise something that's always standard as a feature. Like "Duplex" (aren't pretty much all outlets duplex?) or "three wire" (pretty hard to find two-wire) etc. So I wonder if the electronics in every GFCI aren't "conformally coated..."

So OP - Found that GFCI yet?

Thanks VERY MUCH Bobbo - that was EXACTLY where the darn GFCI socket was!

We reset it and the dead sockets sprang back into life

I didn't think of looking there!

As newbies who don't really know our backsides from a hole in the wall I so very much appreciate forums like this, and am grateful to all who contributed to this thread and tried to help

Heartfelt thanks to you all!

Chris

I have the 2007 Winnebago Outlook 31C, which is the same RV. Look right beside the entrance door, by all of the switches. There is a GFCI outlet there. It protects the outside outlet, itself, the kitchen outlet, and the bathroom outlet. I bet those are the outlets that won't work.

Unless it has been removed by previous owner a 2007 will have a GFI. I agree that the microwave should be on its own breaker with no outlets, key word here "should be"

One of the worst things to happen to a non electrical person is a bad circuit breaker, yes they can and do go bad!

I don't feel like typing out how to find one, so do a Google search on bad or defective circuit breaker. There is lots online on how to check them.
HTH Jim

Made in China like everybody else but lists a few upgraded features for weather resistance.

What make's it weather resistant ?

The shutters on it are to make it so young children can not poke things like bobby pins into it.

Dusty

OP - Is your galley on the curb/passenger side? And the sink immediately to the rear from the entry door? If so, This Illustration has the GFI right at the entry door. Doesn't make sense for it to be IN the sink base cabinet, but the drawing makes it seem like it could be.

It's of course possible somebody had trouble with the GFI and changed it out using a non-protected outlet. My belief remains that there IS one and you haven't found it.

If I recall, WinTasca had at least three "31-foot" models in/around your year. Time to get a flashlight and go hands/knees. Inside/outside/under/above/behind...

Heaters are ROUGH on RV's!!! Nearly all of us use them but their usage isn't the same as at home. First off, every one is running on an extension cord. What? Yep, look on the ground between your coach and the campground pedestal. With that usually comes low voltage. Your heater's rated in WATTS. Less Volts, those Watts want more Amps. More Amps is more HEAT. And I'll venture nearly every RV is wired cheaply compared to nearly every house.

Rock, only outlets I've had to replace that were scorched like that were GFI's. I wonder if their internals are such that they can't handle their rated load on the downstream terminals... Then again those two might have come from a big box tool store with initials "H-F".

For others watching, bear in mind, there are 15-amp and 20-amp GFCI Receptacles.

Here's a 20. Notice the sideways extension in the longer plug slots
This one's from an Amazon seller called Topele. Made in China like everybody else but lists a few upgraded features for weather resistance.

Note to Self - Replace GFCI's used in High Demand circuits with Name Brand 20A. 20A won't upgrade a 15A circuit but just might last longer.