Class C built in propane tank.

jrloucks wrote:
I thought the OP might be interested in our propane tank 'rejuvenation' with photos. The tank was originally built in 1983. I had it inspected by propane tech before we purchased the '84 motor-home in 2012 (required here to obtain vehicle insurance.)

In 2015, I removed the tank because I wanted to inspect/repaint it because (even though it was certified) I was concerned a propane attendant might refuse to refill the tank because of all the rust on it. (See photos.) All of the fixtures/valves were fine.

I used a cup wire brush on an angle grinder to completely (easily) remove all the original paint. I used Tremclad Rust Reformer as a primer, and two coats of Tremclad Rust Paint - Recreation White.

Mine didn't look quite as bad as yours when I finally decided to overhaul it.

Most of my "rust" was thick caked on road snot with dirt and stuff picked up over the years that never quite washed off using normal washing ending up looking like burnt crispy coating on chicken!. I was able to just use the metal brushes to get most off and a couple spots needed a sanding wheel to get to bright metal, but overall, the rust wasn't as bad as it looked.

I couldn't get your product as it's not available here but I used it's cousin Rust Reformer all over regardless of how bare the metal was. I coated that a few times with the epoxy primer sanding it smooth. I did the final coats using the old standby Appliance Epoxy. However, I must have just grabbed two cans out of the rack not really checking that they were the same color. So, my tank is white on top and avocado on the bottom.

What I also found that helps is occasionally using a spray-on auto wax on the tank's metal surface. It does a great job of repelling dirty water and grime between full washings. I buy whatever is on sale at the auto store and it keeps the tank looking new and makes it easy to see any potential problems before they get bad.

Thanks for the photos.

"And there you go"

PS: I am married to a Greek woman.

I thought the OP might be interested in our propane tank 'rejuvenation' with photos. The tank was originally built in 1983. I had it inspected by propane tech before we purchased the '84 motor-home in 2012 (required here to obtain vehicle insurance.)

In 2015, I removed the tank because I wanted to inspect/repaint it because (even though it was certified) I was concerned a propane attendant might refuse to refill the tank because of all the rust on it. (See photos.) All of the fixtures/valves were fine.

I used a cup wire brush on an angle grinder to completely (easily) remove all the original paint. I used Tremclad Rust Reformer as a primer, and two coats of Tremclad Rust Paint - Recreation White.

Photos below.

Manchester LP tanks in Bedford Indiana appears to make a variety of tanks for the RV industry. I would contact them for advice and replacement. Buying used may be OK but you may be buying an even older tank that has been refurbushed. I just took my tank off to have a new shutoff valve installed. My reearch said to let a professional do it, so I did. Empty LP tanks are apparently way more dangerous then those with actual gas in them The fumes are what can ignite. They replaced valve and pressure tested all the other connections. Got to love small towns, they charged me $38 for tha valve and no charge on the labor. I also had 3 twenty pound BBQ tanks refilled, total cost for everything was $88. I then wire brushed it, repainted it and reinstalled it. So my advice is to remove, have it checked and then make an informed decision if the tank is safe or not. I would bet that it is cosmetic rather then structural problems.

Arizona RV Salvage has many used ASME tanks. That may be where yoi were seeing the low prices on reconditioned/certified used ASME tanks (some are off rather new RV's that were salvaged by the insurance company). There was another salvage yard that handled pressure vessels including propane tanks on the west side of Phoenix but they went to trade-industry only. I used them when they were open to the public. Way back, they told me that ASME tanks are pretty rugged beast but for some reason, questionable Propane or RV shops often convince some poor RVer that their tank were in need of replacing mainly based on appearance or smell.

Having an old RV with a 25+ years old tank, I've replace the vapor valve, 80% valve, sanded it, coated it, painted it, replaced fill valve covers, lost the fill "O" ring and had to hunt that down, new regulator, connectors, manifold and lines as well as relabeled it and even clean out the entire tank's interior. All of this was done by me (bored neighbor helped a few times) and no new tank was needed. Unless you have been ignoring routine annual maintenance on the tank, repairs are not that hard and often a small inexpensive part can correct an issue.

My first suggestion is Arizona RV Salvage and see if they have any, or go in and buy just the problem part. Why buy a tank if all that is needed is a new "O" ring or just a fill valve or maybe the vapor vale. Heck even a faulty 80% valve can mimic a leaking tank if not properly closed after filling. Start with a good cleaning of the tank, inspecting all pieces to make sure they are tightened. Clean off the all the dried grimmy quasi mud cement that people confuse for rust.

Unless it's so bad no respectable propane dealer will fill the tank, it's probably not as bad as you convinced yourself it is.

https://www.camperid.com/manchester-tank/9-8-gal-rv-asme-vapor-tank-mpn-6840.html $477.00

I would remove the tank and evaluate it's structural condition. If the rust is everywhere but superficial in penetration, I would find a local shop to sandblast it to bare metal. Before giving it to them, first remove all valves and hardware and cap all holes that enter the tank, maybe using the old parts to cap the holes. Once it is back home, brush and roll on a coat of clean metal primer and two coats of paint. I trust the Rustoleum brand most. Then install all new valves and such.

In theory, the cost for rebuilding the tank properly doing it yourself with consideration for the sandblasting process, will be very affordable. In my mind, that would be doing it right.

Or spend that $500 on a new propane tank that likely has variations from your 22 year old original one, making an the installation full of compromises.

I would get another opinion from another LP filling station owner before you have to buy a new tank. The tanks age does concern me but I'm not a professional LP tech .

Here is an example of size vs gallons.
Flame King YSN122a 12.2 Gallon RV, Van Or Trailer Horizontal ASME RV Propane Tank Cylinder, 12" x 28"


This tank is avl on amazon prime free shipping to prime customers.

I goggled on your behalf and found you should expect to pay around $500 for a new tank. I'd be very motivated to refurb the one you have. Replace the bleeder valve also while you're at it.

Chandler1 wrote:

Lwiddis wrote:
A leaking tank in your RV? What size is the current tank’s size?

The valve leaked during fill and I had to fully open or it leaked halfway open. I think 7 gallon but probably not exactly that.

Propane valves should be FULLY Open or FULLY closed....NEVER partially open

They seal when against the valve seats..open position/closed position
Valve stem packing in packing gland should seal against leaking when opening/closing