Cold weather refrigerator question

Hi Mike,

An ounce of protection is worth a pound of cure. If the working medium gels and blocks the tubes, the boiler may overheat and cause the anti corrosion material to crystallize. Once it has, it may later collect in low spots and permanently block the tube.

One solution is to install the ARP fridge protection device, which attempts to prevent overheating of the cooling system.

Another cheaper solution is to restrict air flow, and add a heat source such as a light bulb.

The best "heat" solution is the Norcold Kit. So far as I am aware Dometic doesn't have such a kit.

We have never run into this issue although I do block off my top vent just because heat rises. I fabbed a little shield that I put in the top of the refrigerator compartment but that is all.

We have used all of our motorhomes for snowmobiling up until about two years ago when we sold our sleds and got out of the sport. The coldest we have been in are temps just dipping into the single digits at night with highs in the upper teens/low 20's during the day and NEVER had an issue in 20+ years now.

Personally, I wouldn't worry much about it unless you have an issue and then deal with it then.

Mike.

Many models of RV fridge have a switch marked LAT, (low Ambient Temp). what it does is override the door switch.

You know the old classic question: Does the light really go out when I close the door?

Well with the LAT switch ON the answer is NO.

This causes it to run more often, keeping things outside warmer and the freezer colder (since the light is in the Fridge part) I have bypassed my door switch on occasion to keep the light on.

I've never ran into this issue and I've been RVing since 1976! I leave my fridge on 24/7 /365 and the coldest weather I've been in was 9* with no problems.

YES cooler ambient air temps can affect rv absorption fridges' ability to properly cool (just like hot ambient air temps)

It's all a 'heat transfer process'
Warmer temps inside fridge compartments transfers to colder medium (ammonia liquid) which then transfer that absorbed heat to the ambient air which flows across backside of cooling coils.

In hot weather the air can not absorb the heat therefore cooling affect diminishes and fridge temps rise.

In cold weather the water mixture with the sodium chromate can begin freezing/crystallizing which disrupts the flow of coolant within the unit. That results in less cooling ability.

Using the 'gas' mode in cold temps help......it is more efficient than electric in cold weather and adds some heat to outside compartment area.
Using a low wattage bulb (40W-60W) in outside compartment also helps.
Partially blocking a couple of vents in lower vent cover may help by minimizing draft.

Some models of Dometic have a LAC switch (Low Ambient Control). This turns food section light ON causing heat in food section where thermistor is. This causes the thermostat to turn cooling unit ON (heat source) more frequent/longer.

Hi,

Norcold actually makes a cold weather kit that can be added.

Please read the winter rv camping thread. Here is a link: winter rv camping

There are threads that document fridge failure due to freeze up.

Below about 20 degrees ambient, the Absorbsion cycle will not operate correctly. Below 10 degrees ambient, the refer will NOT operate at all. Installing a 60 watt light bulb is a good idea. BLOCKING off roof top ventilation is NOT a good idea. The Cooling unit needs air to flow from the bottom to the top and out. Blocking that top will cause the cooling unit to "bake" (RUIN). The cooling unit (LP or 120) WILL generate heat and you must have a way for that heat to dissipate. NOT using your Refer(stored) will not cause any problem in sub zero temps. Doug

well I may be the odd duck on this one but I have been in cold weather camping here in northern Michigan..... in spots where my refrigerator was much much warmer than the outside temperature
Due to the way it works... absorption refrigerator is needing warm outside ( or thinking its warm)...temperatures to work properly.

I have had instances before I learned the secret....where inside fridge the temp got into the mid Fourties....:E

I'm with MountainAir. We have traveled in the winter never having a problem with the refrigerator. We've been in morning temps down to the single digits. I agree I would not go plugging air vents, particularly if operating in the lp mode.

Ed Headington

Never ran into this issue. We do travel in November thru January and have been in below 0. So our system must be working. I don't thing I would be blocking any vents,especially when on propane if I am reading right.