So, as we are looking into our first RV (more than likely a 35-39 foot gasser) we're at the same time getting our driveway redone.We are in west central FL, which means a lot of sand for our soil. Our current driveway is in really bad shape (concrete with some asphalt) and as we're getting quotes for a new one, we're also considering what we might wish to do in case we get a big MH.My parents own a 40' DP and come to visit on occasion. Not a big deal when they put more weight and pressure on our existing driveway as it is already crappy, but if we get a new driveway we don't want them (or our MH we eventually get) to crack it or mess it up.So, part of me is thinking of having thicker or reinforced patches of the concrete in 5'x5' areas (8 of them - one for each corner of the two RVs) along the section where the RVs would go. This way the extra thickness and reinforced areas would be where the tires and jacks would go, but not end up taking up the entire long run length of the driveway.Thoughts and opinions welcome - and any idea of thickness, reinforcement, etc. for these types of weight? I've got to imagine our RV will be around 17,000 - 20,000 pounds, and theirs (40 foot DP) maybe around 30,000 ?

I would just go ahead and mark off a 40' long by 30' wide parking at the end of the driveway and have that section poured deeper with extra steel in it. No need to do the entire drive that strong, but I would not cut corners on it either.Have no idea what you need for your soil. That should come from a reliable local contractor.

My driveway has stored a motor home for 14 years and it is just 4" thick fiber reinforced concrete. No steel reinforcement at all. I have had heavy dump trucks on it as well as lumber trucks with no issues. Just make sure that you put expansion joints every 10' and you should be fine. Also make sure that when you tear up the old driveway that the dirt is well compacted before you pour any concrete. I was a licensed Florida General Contractor in Pinellas County before I retired and this is what I did when I built this house. You can spend more if you want to and make it thicker if you want to, but there is really no need. Our soil in Florida is very solid and you do not have to worry about all of the issues that they have in cooler climates and soil with a lot of clay.

Mr. Steven,I would make it for a 45ft. coach so if you ever sell, ALL home-buyers with motorhomes can be included. My brother and his wife built a new house and incorporated a motorhome garage along with the 3 car garage. He only made it 37 ft. deep as that was plenty of room for what he had at the time. He just didn't think we would get a larger coach.Well, he did and it won't fit. So, he is in a storage rental unit along with me. He felt the cost to expand the garage wasn't worth it.Safe travels,MM.

rgatijnet1 wrote:My driveway has stored a motor home for 14 years and it is just 4" thick fiber reinforced concrete. No steel reinforcement at all. I have had heavy dump trucks on it as well as lumber trucks with no issues. Just make sure that you put expansion joints every 10' and you should be fine. Also make sure that when you tear up the old driveway that the dirt is well compacted before you pour any concrete. I was a licensed Florida General Contractor in Pinellas County before I retired and this is what I did when I built this house. You can spend more if you want to and make it thicker if you want to, but there is really no need. Our soil in Florida is very solid and you do not have to worry about all of the issues that they have in cooler climates and soil with a lot of clay.Ahh, good to hear! My biggest concern was my parent's 40' DP, but they only visit once a year, and even that is iffy in the future now that dad is 80.

rgatijnet1 wrote:My driveway has stored a motor home for 14 years and it is just 4" thick fiber reinforced concrete. No steel reinforcement at all. I have had heavy dump trucks on it as well as lumber trucks with no issues. Just make sure that you put expansion joints every 10' and you should be fine. Also make sure that when you tear up the old driveway that the dirt is well compacted before you pour any concrete. I was a licensed Florida General Contractor in Pinellas County before I retired and this is what I did when I built this house. You can spend more if you want to and make it thicker if you want to, but there is really no need. Our soil in Florida is very solid and you do not have to worry about all of the issues that they have in cooler climates and soil with a lot of clay.PS - any recommendations for someone to do the driveway?

Concrete driveway for RV parking | Good Sam Community

ro_sie
Explorer
Sep 04, 2017
We built ours last year. In fact when I was on here asking for ideas and told what I thought I wanted, I was shamed by someone asking me if I was planning on landing a 727 there. I did build as I had planned. It is over 5 inches thick. 100 ft driveway and a 55 foot pad with three sided building. full hook ups inside the building. I had a contractor that builds commercial buildings. I went to look at some of his work first and was impressed. All I have to say, is do not under build. Over build is more expensive, but in the end, you will not be sorry.
hypoxia
Explorer
Sep 04, 2017
When we built 24 years ago I never expected to have a 45' coach that weighs nearly 50,000 pounds. I have had to replace some sections of concrete, usually due to the edge not being down turned deep enough.

Nearly everyone I know has under built their garage and their concrete.

Interlocked pavers work well when done correctly.
down_home
Explorer II
Sep 03, 2017
............
Bruce_Brown
Moderator
Sep 03, 2017
If it were me, and in 2001 it was, I'd go with 6" thick, 4000# mix, with both mesh and rebar. Mesh and rebar are cheap and you'll never get another chance to do it right.

When we built our garage in 2001 we did it that way and 16 years later it still looks great.

Or you can skimp out on something and hope...your call. :W
Dennis12
Explorer
Sep 03, 2017
It only cost 2 or 3 dollars more per yard to go from 3000 mix to a 4000 mix. Money well spent. Saw cut the slab no more than 12' X 12' Less is better. You have to remember that concrete is guaranteed to get hard and guaranteed to crack.
grey2112
Explorer
Sep 03, 2017
pianotuna wrote:
hydro = electric power
water = tap to feed the tanks on the RV
clean out = place to dump the grey and black tanks.

Gotcha - already have a 50 Amp service and water in my pumphouse (I'm on well water and septic) which will be where the pad is built - all set!
cross21114
Explorer
Sep 03, 2017
If you want a driveway which looks great and handles heavy loads, go with concrete pavers. 3 1/8" pavers over 1" coarse sand over 6-8" crushed stone base.

Lots of great examples in Florida.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Sep 03, 2017
hydro = electric power
water = tap to feed the tanks on the RV
clean out = place to dump the grey and black tanks.
grey2112
Explorer
Sep 03, 2017
C-172-AV8R wrote:
Don't forget to install hydro, water and a clean out. Much easier done first then later.

Not sure I understand - what is a "hydro, water, and a clean out"?
jfskeet
Explorer
Sep 02, 2017
We have a 36 foot motorhome that's close to 26,000 lbs. We had our
driveway re done in 2008. They installed 6" crushed concrete rolled and packed
and put in 5 1/2 inches fiberglass reinforced concrete with 6x6 mesh reinforcing wire . Its held up perfectly with zero cracks . We live in middle atlantic states with a lot of freezing and thawing and no problem.