Dash AC Issue

[campindave]

I have an Itasca Sunova on the Ford V10 chassis. The last time I took it out, I noticed that the dash AC was blowing room temp air. I live in Texas so thank goodness for the roof ACs. I checked the controls and it was set on AC and cold. To test, I turned the thermostat to warm and got no temperature change. No matter what I have it set at, it just blows like it's on vent. I've fixed most things on the RV myself and would like to continue that, but I don't know much how the chassis AC works. Could use some pointer please.

Thanks

[Pirate1]

Another issue that is common is the control valve in the Evans/Tempcon system. There is a way to check easy. Find your heater hoses going into the air box under the dash. Take a pair of vice grips and clamp one hose down hard. See how the air temp is after 10 or 15 minutes. If it gets cool, the control valve is broken.
If the compressor is not running, you can always get can of juice and a can of dye and fill the system. You may find a leak that way.

[lostdog]

Bet it's the compressor failing. The Ford F53 chassis air-conditioning compressors are suspect. I'm on our second compressor and I know folks who are on their third. Keep in mind that it is a Ford problem, your RV service folks are not responsible to fix if still under warranty.

[Gjac]

The way I understand the OP is he got the same room temp air blowing out of the vent whether it was on A/C or heat. This sounds more like a control issue with one of the cables that control heat or cold. I would look there first to see if your lever is actually moving the anything.

[zman-az]

As mentioned not much a amurature can do. I would turn on the AC and see if the clutch kicked in and compressor running. If it is then you are most likely low on refrigerant. You can try to add some yourself to save money. If the AC works then you know your system works, however there is a good chance your fix will only last a day or so. I'd that is The case you have a leak and you might as well take it in and have a shop fix it. They will put in a dye to find the leak. Hopefully the leak is a cheap fix.

[Pirate1]

Ford owns the compressor, the rv builder owns the rest of the system.

Is the compressor running?

If not, is there oil blown all over the area of the compressor?

I had a hose that rubbed on something which caused a loss of coolant. Luckily I took it to a shop that only worked ac issues. They had to make a hose. They also had all the parts they needed. I would find a shop that specializes in automotive air conditioning. Not a chain shop like firestone or pep boys for example, or the other fix em up joints, just a small shop for ac.

[brandonrv]

campindave wrote:
I have an Itasca Sunova on the Ford V10 chassis. The last time I took it out, I noticed that the dash AC was blowing room temp air. I live in Texas so thank goodness for the roof ACs. I checked the controls and it was set on AC and cold. To test, I turned the thermostat to warm and got no temperature change. No matter what I have it set at, it just blows like it's on vent. I've fixed most things on the RV myself and would like to continue that, but I don't know much how the chassis AC works. Could use some pointer please.

Thanks

Happened on my winnie brand new off the lot the dash AC didn't work. Ford has to fix it unfortunately.

[wa8yxm]

Two common problems with Dash A/C and a bit of history.

First car I had with A/C it was "Dealer installed" or after market, this type uses a thermostat to cycle the compressor on and off to control how cold it gets inside the car.. FACTORY air usually does not do this.

With Factory air the Air Conditioner compressor runs full time, if it's too cold you mix hot air in with the cold. This may be done any of a number of ways.. Air gates/doors open allowing some air through the heater core or, much more common, a water valve opens allowing hot water through the heater core, this valve may open partially, or fully depending on the type of control.

IF IT STICKS OPEN... You did a very good job of describing exactly what happens.

IN this case the air is well cooled, but it is then heated back up by the heater. (Since that is the path the air takes) Makes a great DE-humidifier though.

Page 2: NOT COOLING:

Most common cause, also the one I had to fix, listed by prior poster.. Low coolant.

Also tossed fan belt fried compressor, bad expansion valve and other system failure. Note: Tossed fan belts not common with serpentine belts and will cause other issues if they happen so you should notice swiftly.

Since I could not find my gauge... I simply added a 12oz can.. It worked.

[prstlk]

All auto parts stores sell a recharge/small leak seal kit. Cost about $40 follow the directions.these kits work well and have some lube additives as well. They will fix the problem.....at least for a while. If the problems returns you need to take it to pro who will then track down the leak through the use of dyes and Uv lights. I had a dodge diesel with slow leak in the evaporator. Cost to repair was over $1000, I just ended up recharging it every spring.
Stay cool
Jw

[horsepuller]

AC diagnosis and repair is tough for amateurs. I've done AC work (residential and vehicle) for decades and still consider myself an amateur.

The systems are complicated, usually involving refrigerant pressure and vacuum, electrical, electronic, computer, and mechanical components. To diagnose and repair requires lots of expensive equipment, and an understanding of how the systems operate.

I suggest you watch some of the "Eric the car guy" videos linked below. These are the best AC videos I know of, and will give you a feel for what is involved in AC work. Good luck.

How to find and repair AC leaks: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95RdGLFIbL8

AC system basics: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w17DpGCcRj8

[rk911]

campindave wrote:
I have an Itasca Sunova on the Ford V10 chassis. The last time I took it out, I noticed that the dash AC was blowing room temp air. I live in Texas so thank goodness for the roof ACs. I checked the controls and it was set on AC and cold. To test, I turned the thermostat to warm and got no temperature change. No matter what I have it set at, it just blows like it's on vent. I've fixed most things on the RV myself and would like to continue that, but I don't know much how the chassis AC works. Could use some pointer please.

Thanks

sounds like you need an AC coolant re-charge.