So after messing with the TPS, it will rev with advance connected. Still pops and such, but it will now rev.
Let also expand on what I mean by a slipped balancer. I have a '94 Mazda B3000 that when I first brought it back to life I could not get it to start when I set the balancer to 10 BTDC, which is Ford spec for a Vulcan 3.0 engine. Made sure I was on compression stroke, etc. When I finally timed it manually by putting something in the number 1 cylinder and checking tdc, then pointing the button at tower 1 on the hat, it ran. Once running I put a timing light on it and saw the balancer marks were not lining up.
What happened is the glue that holds the rubber ring of the balancer to the metal core had given up so the rubber ring was beginning to slid somewhat around the core. That is what I mean by "slipped". Failure in that way would not shear the woodruff key in the metal core of the balancer.
As to the timing marks next to the balancer, they are intact enough that I can read the numbers, so I am timing to the correct 4 mark. 4 is listed twice, but the BTDC marks are more numerous than ATDC so I've got the right one. It's the last peak before the big groove that is TDC.
I agree timing still could have jumped a tooth at the chain due to age and slop and that does need to be looked at. That will probably happen when I service the water pump since I'll have access at that time.
I also agree that I need to pop the valve covers and make sure I don't have a tight/loose valve(s) that are causing issues
Progress is being made. After getting it timed again at 4 BTDC and then doing some testing, I'm pretty sure the balancer has NOT slipped and that something else is causing the running issues. The PO mentioned he replaced the fuel pump. It very well could be he put the wrong one in. He wasn't very mechanically inclined and could have put a lower flow pump in that doesn't match up with the increased psi that is required for the 1994-1995 TBI setups. I need to check fuel pressures to verify that. If it's really been running lean all this time with a dodgy TPS it could have caused the issues I've seen.
I have a vacuum gauge on the way that should tell me quite a bit about the engine's health now that I have the engine running consistently
As far as loading the parts cannon goes, I have. This RV is not for me and will be a home for a relative for what I think will be a very long time given the relative's situation. For that reason I am more comfortable to load the cannon and go ahead and replace the 30 year old parts with OEM new parts as needed to make sure the service life of this engine will continue on for quite some time. If this was a project vehicle of mine I would be quite a bit more stingy.
You raise some excellent points, and I most certainly don't take offense. This engine platform is new to me, which is why I wound up posting here to tap the brain trust so I can learn more.
As to your offer of a consult, that would be a road trip for you I think. I'm south of the Capital and I see that Inverness is a bit north of Tampa. I'm totally open to a video call of some sort to swap knowledge though.
