Drop hitch

Thanks for the replies. I was most interested in why the drop was limited to 4" and I think that has been answered. Now I have to decide what to do.

OnaQuest wrote:
Those instructions are a bit confusing, but they mean to say; The objective is to use a drop hitch receiver (they come in 2" to 10" drop versions) having sufficient drop to keep the tow bar, from hitch to toad base plate, within 4" of level.

In other words, the toad connection can be 0" to 4" below the coach connection point, but should NEVER be above.

My drop receiver is 8" below the actual coach hitch receiver, to make the tow bar within 2" of level.

Hope this helps.

The instructions in the Winnebago Operator's manual are exactly as the OP interpreted them.

"When coupling the vehicle tow bar to the factory receiver hitch using a "drop receiver" or conventional "ball mount' (commonly referred to as a stinger or a draw bar) do not exceed a 4" drop. Winnebago even includes a drawing of the receiver at the back of the motorhome with a 4" drop hitch inserted. It clearly identifies "4" max drop".

I spent several hours on the phone with a factory rep discussing this very situation. The company position was formulated after several incidences where longer drop hitches were used pulling either a vehicle or a trailer without auxiliary braking systems. In a panic stop situation the added leverage of the longer drop in combination with the lack of auxiliary braking systems caused the hitch to either fold under the frame or be torn from its mounts.

During our conversation I mentioned that by imposing this restriction Winnebago was severely limiting the vehicles that could be towed. After repeatedly inquiring what could be done to remedy the situation I was told that Winnebago no longer buys commercially available hitches. In 2012 they started manufacturing and installing their own proprietary hitches. They are a minimum of 50% stronger than any commercially available hitch. He also backed off a bit saying they had been extensively testing 6" drop hitches and found no problem using them. I haven't looked at the 2015 and 2016 owners manuals to see if they have changed their recommendations.

I can attest to the strength of the Winnebago manufactured hitches. In 2014 the Jeep we were pulling was rear ended. We were traveling at the speed limit of 65 mph when we were hit by a kid in a pickup truck going a minimum of 75 mph. There was over $12,000.00 damage to the Jeep and another $2,000.00 damage to the tow bar, base plates and drop receiver. There was absolutely no damage to the hitch or motorhome.

Seniorfirsttimer wrote:
I have another dilemma based on my Itasca Suncruiser Operators Manual. It states: "When coupling the vehicle tow bar to the Factory Receiver Hitch using a 'drop receiver' or a conventional 'ball mount' do not exceed a 4" drop...

It seems that with this restriction it would be impossible to tow almost any vehicle especially my 1965 VW Beetle. The height of the receiver opening on the coach is 27" off the ground. THat means that any tow bar would have to be 23" off the ground to be level. The front of my beetle is only 10" off the ground leaving me 13" to make up.

Any comments?

Wow they located your receiver awfully high. I can't imaging towing anything that you are not going to need to use a drop adapter. I have almost the same height difference to make up but in my case the car connection points are 27" and the coach is 17".

That is a lot of drop! You would have a lot of problems with even very small approach angles - you will be constantly dragging the hitch. I left an RV park this summer where the hitch got us stuck and I was pulling a Jeep with no drop in the hitch. It is something to seriously think about.

Another problem that occurs IF you use the 8-10 drop is that it will often drag on quick inclines like driveways etc. I use an 8 inch drop but I wish there were a better option and I check the hitch often. My next towed, like my next wife, will be taller and newer. Just kidding honey. :)

A drop receiver does derate the hitch load rating, but it's likely the rating with a 10" drop receiver attached would still be well above the 1600 lbs or so your Beetle weighs. You probably could verify that with the hitch manufacturer.

There are many vehicles with high front hitch points you can use. JEEPs often do that.

But there is also a tow bar that is curved so it adds to the height of the hitch,, Alas I think it's an "A FRAME" type not the kind I like but they do make it.. This can get you a few more inches of "Drop" effectrively I do undewrstand the reasons and the math.

The hitch is not designed for torsion loads only straight loads. so when you put say an 8 or 10 (I have a 13) inch drop on it the torque is amazing and can damage it. (Did mine)

Get another "toad"? I can't remember when I've ever seen a Beetle used in this manner.

G'luck!

DSDP Don wrote:
On my previous coach, I had a hitch shop add a second receiver. They plated one to the other. It gives you a 3" drop without extending the hitch further back. It won't solve your issue, but it gets you 3" closer and reduces the drop hitch length.

Making drop on the hitch, or the receiver is the same thing to the frame.
It will not change recommended TOTAL drop.
Would the shop weld a bar behind the receiver, that would reinforce the receiver for bending forces, that would be real solution.

Your coach manufacturer used the maximum towing weight to do the engineering on the allowable drop that will produce the maximum twisting motion on the rear frame members that hold the receiver. it's a CYA thing with them.

I know the VW doesn't come any where near those numbers. Use a little common sense, and use the dropped hitch that will place the tow bar in a level position.