Electric Plug in question

Is the garage outlet rather on the loose side? If it's not good and tight, I would suggest replacing it (or getting it replaced) with a good quality spec grade outlet. Outlets with worn out contacts are far more prone to arcing than those with good tight contacts.

As others wrote, plugging or unplugging with the load or power switched off somehow--whether by the breaker in the motorhome, the breaker for the house outlet, or a dedicated switch for the outlet--will prevent any arcing. If you are doing this at all frequently, a circuit breaker that is acting as a switch ought to be rated for switching duty (typically labeled "SWD") as normal circuit breakers aren't designed for routine switching. If it were me, I would prefer to install a properly rated switch for the outlet over using a circuit breaker as the switch--in fact, that's exactly what I did for the RV outlet I installed at my house.

rivercity22 wrote:
I will not worry about it and thank you to everybody that replied.

Try turning off the main breakers in the RV just so we can settle if this is the transfer switch or some other load.

If the arc seems large it will over time corrode and pit the plug and outlet.
Eventually causing a poor connection.

rivercity22 wrote:

CA Traveler wrote:
The ATS for almost all RVs is set up to default to shore power, hence no relays to active and instant power to the CB panel for shore power. But any loads that are on draw power and that is almost always the charger plus whatever else is turned on.

Are you saying it's nothing to be concerned about?

The standard recommendation is to use a CB for on/off so that the plug is fully seated.

Turn off all loads before switching any you will be fine. Using a CB in your rig or pedestal does not reduce arcing it just changes where it occurs.

For a home household plug I wouldn't worry about it.

I will not worry about it and thank you to everybody that replied.

That little arc is as was said, like plugging in any appliance that is already switched on. Not anything to be concerned about...just plug it in quickly and all will be well. Of course it's always better to have to outlet breaker turned off if practical but if not you will be just fine.

You would get the same thing plugging in an extension cord with a bunch of lights on it.

rivercity22 wrote:

Are you saying it's nothing to be concerned about?

Yes, that is correct.

smkettner wrote:
I thought the transfer switch coil was only energized after the generator is running for about 30 seconds. Besides the coil is just a couple milliamps.

First.. There are two different ATS designs... One works as you summarize.. But on this type the CONVERTER will be drawing anywhere from a fraction of an amp to around 10 amps

The other kind has two sets of colils..one activates with shore power.

Finally.... "Just a couple of milliamps" is all it takes to arc.

CA Traveler wrote:
The ATS for almost all RVs is set up to default to shore power, hence no relays to active and instant power to the CB panel for shore power. But any loads that are on draw power and that is almost always the charger plus whatever else is turned on.

Are you saying it's nothing to be concerned about?

The ATS for almost all RVs is set up to default to shore power, hence no relays to active and instant power to the CB panel for shore power. But any loads that are on draw power and that is almost always the charger plus whatever else is turned on.

mtrumpet wrote:

rgatijnet1 wrote:
The small arc is caused by power going to the coils of the transfer switch. Turning off the main circuit breaker will make no difference.

Not in the RV, but turning off the breaker to the plug in the garage/house will make a difference. No power to the plug - no electricity to arc when the plug is inserted.

I thought the transfer switch coil was only energized after the generator is running for about 30 seconds. Besides the coil is just a couple milliamps.

Electric water heater or house charging system OTOH can easily want 12+ amps to get started.