Electric Water Heater Failure

Did you try the heater element? I've replaced them several times on a home water heater.

Most likely the element. I would replace it at this point without even doing any troubleshooting due to it's age. It can be purchased for around $30 including shipping and you will need a 1 1/2" socket to do the job. Don't even think of using an adjustable wrench - that baby is in there tight and needs to go back in tight. The new element will also come with a new gasket.

If you can get to the wiring check for voltage at the input and, if there is another on/off switch at the heater check to be sure it is working ie. passing on the voltage when `on'.
If the voltage is good you could disconnect the wiring to the element and check the resistance of the element. If there is resistance the element should be good. If the resistance is `infinite' you know it is bad and should be replaced. I don't remember what the resistance reading should be. If you have a spare you could compare the readings.
My biggest problem was just getting to the wiring. I had a burned up wire and had to take the Heater out of the RV to fix it.

Prior to 2004 Atwood WH had separate t-stats for electric element and propane (2004 they combined operation to just one set)

Electric element and t-stats for electric are on backside of tank (access from inside rig).

Your element is a screw in type. AC power comes from circuit breaker to/thru ON/OFF switch to/thru t-stats to element.
Check for AC voltage at element...no voltage----t-stats/switch/CB bad
Check for continuity thru element......no continuity---element bad

Electric element is a 1400W

Remove the element and take it to Home Depot for replacement. Make sure it is 110volt and the same length, replacement can be done yourself. Cut off power and drain first, be sure water inside is cool.

just had a similar issue.... I discovered that the wire to the thermostat,at the water tank, which was wire nutted, had burned thru.......and separated........

If you change it yourself make sure you fill the tank before turning back on the power.

Dick_B wrote:
If you can get to the wiring check for voltage at the input and, if there is another on/off switch at the heater check to be sure it is working ie. passing on the voltage when `on'.
If the voltage is good you could disconnect the wiring to the element and check the resistance of the element. If there is resistance the element should be good. If the resistance is `infinite' you know it is bad and should be replaced. I don't remember what the resistance reading should be. If you have a spare you could compare the readings.
My biggest problem was just getting to the wiring. I had a burned up wire and had to take the Heater out of the RV to fix it.

X2. I have seen the secondary switch on the outside of the couch overheat and fail in my parents coach. Switch had been making poor connection for some time, so the plastic was very brittle.

There are also two temp sensors that stick to the outside of the tank. They are actually "thermo couplers". Mine went bad...$35 at an RV store. Common failure.
Even with power to the unit, if one or both of the sensors are bad, then no joy.

Jim

listen to what Lobstah said just finished same repair on mine!