First Class A - Tips Please

[Biggyniner]

Hello! I am moving from camping in an old busted TC to a class A. my wife and I are looking at traded our 2006 Dodge Ram straight across for a 99 Southwind storm 29V.

Coming from a camper that only had a fridge and furnace and leaked terribly, I really have no experience with a class A. Basically I would like general maintenance tips and any advice you think is wise for a new owner to know?

Thanks!

[Biggyniner]

timmac wrote:

Biggyniner wrote:

John Wayne wrote:
Which frame is it on Ford or Chev. if Chev. I think that year was still on the narrow frame P30 and will have the problem auto e-brake etc. Later model 2000 up will get you a better handling unit.

Its on the Ford Chassis. But, breaking news, they just told me that the model is actually 95 so i think we are backing out of the deal... Reason being, NADA Avg Value on the 95 is 5,100 while NADA on the 96 is 15k, why such a significant difference? And they are not budging from what they are asking, 19,995.... How can one model year be that drastic, I cannot justify paying that much over average value..

You only need to finance $10-15,000 dollars more than what you are spending to get a newer better motorhome, stay in the 2000 plus year range, 2003 or newer gets you a better chassis.

Thanks for all the tips.. We decided on a 2002 holiday Rambler on the workhorse. Has Banks power upgrade and 36k miles.

[timmac]

Biggyniner wrote:

John Wayne wrote:
Which frame is it on Ford or Chev. if Chev. I think that year was still on the narrow frame P30 and will have the problem auto e-brake etc. Later model 2000 up will get you a better handling unit.

Its on the Ford Chassis. But, breaking news, they just told me that the model is actually 95 so i think we are backing out of the deal... Reason being, NADA Avg Value on the 95 is 5,100 while NADA on the 96 is 15k, why such a significant difference? And they are not budging from what they are asking, 19,995.... How can one model year be that drastic, I cannot justify paying that much over average value..

You only need to finance $10-15,000 dollars more than what you are spending to get a newer better motorhome, stay in the 2000 plus year range, 2003 or newer gets you a better chassis.

[Gjac]

If you are looking at 96 MH's I would be looking for one that has headers, FF muffler, cai, and some front end mods. Those early years for Ford and Chevy were prone to exhaust manifold leaks. I would also check for side wall delamination. To answer your other question I have a 1996 with a slide and it has never leaked, same seals.

[Lt46]

I see you're backing out on the 95, but just so you know, to replace the in tank fuel pump/sender assembly on my moho (had it done 2 weeks ago) cost me $800.00 and change for labor and $360.00 (Ford) for the pump/sender assembly.

[Biggyniner]

John Wayne wrote:
Which frame is it on Ford or Chev. if Chev. I think that year was still on the narrow frame P30 and will have the problem auto e-brake etc. Later model 2000 up will get you a better handling unit.

Its on the Ford Chassis. But, breaking news, they just told me that the model is actually 95 so i think we are backing out of the deal... Reason being, NADA Avg Value on the 95 is 5,100 while NADA on the 96 is 15k, why such a significant difference? And they are not budging from what they are asking, 19,995.... How can one model year be that drastic, I cannot justify paying that much over average value..

[John_Wayne]

Which frame is it on Ford or Chev. if Chev. I think that year was still on the narrow frame P30 and will have the problem auto e-brake etc. Later model 2000 up will get you a better handling unit.

[Biggyniner]

Well I think we decided on the 1996 Tiffin. It is in amazing condition and comes with a cover. looks like the previous owners maintained it really well. Everything is solid has about 33k miles on it. On the test drive there were virtually no rattles and the steering is tight, I was impressed. I know some from this era had issues with the fuel pump, I'm keeping my fingers crossed on that. Can anyone ballpark a figure for the cost to replace that pump and labor?

[Biggyniner]

Lt46 wrote:
Watch your "tail swing" when pulling away from gas pumps! Way too easy to graze your rear bumper against those steel column post positioned around the gas pumps.

Great tip! Thank you!

[Lt46]

Watch your "tail swing" when pulling away from gas pumps! Way too easy to graze your rear bumper against those steel column post positioned around the gas pumps.

[JimM68]

like all "newfangled" ideas, early slides were not trusted by the old timers. Heck, there are still some old timers that don't trust newmotorhomes with slides.

Just check the operation. Crawl underneath and look at the rails and worms and such. check the weatherstripping and check close for signs of leaks. Most slidouts will be just plain ok.

[Biggyniner]

pkunk wrote:
Straight across for a net value of $13k would be about right for a '99 with no slide. If it all checks out and you can live with the space I'd say go for it.

Ended up being kind of crummy so we backed out. We are heading out to some more reputable dealers today when I get off work so hopefully they have a better selection. This time we are looking at a 1999 Flair 30H with 36k on the odometer and a 96 Tiffin Allegro 31MH... So we shall see...

I heard that early models with slide-outs where leaky, is this true or is it all about maintenance?

For now no toad in the mix, but if we have too maybe I will pick up an old Geo 😉

[pkunk]

Straight across for a net value of $13k would be about right for a '99 with no slide. If it all checks out and you can live with the space I'd say go for it.

[Dachristianman]

Are you sure he's not planning on a straight trade with you keeping your remaining $6,700 balance? Seems like a large drop in price for the seller.

[ArchHoagland]

Are you planning on pulling a toad?