First time RVERS and had some question about used class c /a

[Zwdb08]

My wife and I have want to try RVing, we plan to bring our granddaughter and mom, and grandpa...anyhow we can't help but wondering do all these things leak? If so why has this issue nto been fixed since the 70s? Better yet why do they sell for so much money and still have all these issues? We started out looking at older late 70s models,with way to many miles ...we then started researching a bit and started looking at 80s models , they started looking nicer not as dated but still quite a bit of miles and we started noticing leaky areas...so we jumped to 90s and early2000s now the price has more than doubled mileage is around the 50,000 mark , (which almost seems to be a moot point as most ads show new engines somewhere between 50,000 and 70,000, or new transmission or both, a lot of extra expense for an already expensive rig to begin with.) Then I was told try winnebago stay away from coachman ,so we find a 2001 mini winnie, 40,000 miles so about 15,000 from replacement I guess, looked very, very clean, well kept, an older couple had it..it was very clean side,like new,drove real nice.. but when checking the outside noticed soft spots and brown black waterseeping out for behind the corner seal in front passenger side and the water followed that seal...so again water damage.. so my wife has all but given up as we have looked at so many of then and all had water or mileage issues usually both...and yet when we looked at newer ones the price is steep for these leaking wheeled boxes...15,000 and up...so is this typical, are there any non leaking ones out there? Is it expensive to repair, should we even consider that mini winnie, or are borrowing trouble? My wife is too the point where she has unpacked our tent, it's 20 years old and doesn't nor ever has leaked and she says it was only around 100 bucks... so are RVers crazy, or is there some logic to spending small fortunes to camp aND enjoy the outdoors, knowing the beast will if it hasn't already leak, and the engine in Trans were on borrowed time right as it leaves the factory...that's not mentioning all the things you expect to fix fridge, stove, etc...man I'd say RV ers are a crazy bunch...and they keep buying them so something must out way these dated and poor designed junks of wheeled money pits... so anyhow my questions do all leak, are these side seam leaKS on the overhead bunch expensive to repair? What models are better if any, I was told winnebago were great, high qaulity but other than a higher price tag, they leak as well...so what is the benefit or true qaulity difference? Is a class A aNY better or worse? We plan to pull our jeep wrangler and just want something comfortable we like to go up the Northshore of minnesota in the fall, and like to explore, we weren't sure how big a rig would be to big for state forest campgrounds? Owe and we want to be dry when we get there ;)???? again thanks for the help...owe and is there a any recommendations , websites etc..where we can learn more about these beasts of leisure how to operate them,care for me etc... and God willing maybe will become a crazy RV er too...thanks Bill and kelly

[bsinmich]

I just bought a 1975 GMC with 55,000 miles on it. I paid $10K with the full intent of putting another $10-12K into it to get it ready like I want. I wanted the GMC and was willing to pay the price. Would you be prepared for that? $2700 for new wheels and tires (FMCA program) I need to get the carb rebuilt, new front wheel bearings, a couple steering parts, AC compressor, Air compressor for the air suspension and whatever else I may find. Then I can start on the interior.
The BS about Winnebago being better is just that. Read about the peeling fiberglass roofs on some. I had a Newmar Mountain Aire and that had quality. Get out of the low end products and you may get what you paid for. I had to get rid of the Newmar because of 6 steps up to get in and steps are my problem. The GMC has only 1 step to get in.

[Biggyniner]

Bordercollie wrote:
Motorhomes are not really economical. They cost a lot when bought new with all of the taxes, insurance and DMV charges and rather drastic depreciation. Think of a box truck converted into a small apartment on wheels, full of appliances and electro-mechanical devices, holding tanks and plumbing. Appliances and air conditioning units may need repairs/replacements when 10 years old.If you want to buy an old 70's or 80's rig intelligently, you'll need to know what problems to look for and/or get a professional truck mechanic and an RV repair shop to inspect for problems and give you independent estimate for parts and labor and approximately how long repairs will take. RV tires are a major cost item. They become unsafe and may fail with loss of control and damage to the underside after some four+ years of sitting mostly parked. Tires have date codes imprinted on one or both sides. If you buy an old rig and have plumbing, electrical, appliance, and many other DIY skills, tools, workspace, and time and help buying an old rig for $5000+ may be cost-effective. Older rigs may have carbureted engines and poor engine cooling systems that have problems pulling long grades and high altitudes on a hot day. If you must pay somebody for repairs, upgrades and maintenance, it is easy too invest more in repairs than the rig can re-sell for. Generally I would advise looking for a "perfect" three to five year old rig, approximately 27+ feet long with rear bedroom and RV queen sized for the older folks and you will have to be in good enough condition to climb into and out of the overhead bed and/or convertible sofa/dinette bed. Slides are nice but can have mechanical problems. Advise taking the whole bunch when looking at new and used rigs and simulate use of the bathroom, bedroom, watching TV, eating, and sleeping including set up and take down routines. After doing your homework, ask yourselves if you really want to get into RV'ing. It takes preparation, effort to drive, effort to set up and take down at campsites, and effort to clean the rig and put stuff away when you come home, ready for the next trip. There is also washing the rig, sanitizing water tanks, and regular engine maintenance. RV'ing is not for everyone, nor is boating, flying, or other expensive pastimes.

When/if you think you know what you want, maybe rent a similar rig with similar floorplan and try RV'ing before you buy. It's expensive but renting could help prevent your making an expensive mistake.

Exactly this! Bordercollie hit the nail on the head with that post.

I lucked out... kind of, made some stupid purchases before landing on a 94 minnie winne for $9700 that had been kept up well. But like Bordercollie mentioned, this rig had been fairly well maintained and I am an avid DIYer.

First thing I noticed was that the rear tires were a old and newish mismatched set of D and E rated tires, replaced all 4 immediately. Replaced some failed interior switches, the propane regulator (was original from 94 and had a faint smell of gas when near it), the black water waste gate, recaulked (with proper RV sealant not silicone) around the windows/access covers and cleaned out a gummed up generator carb. Now she is amazing, again I did all that (except the tires) myself and saved a bunch of $$. You can guess how much (especially if you take it to CW) it would cost if you do not have some DIY skills

[Bordercollie]

Motorhomes are not really economical. They cost a lot when bought new with all of the taxes, insurance and DMV charges and rather drastic depreciation. Think of a box truck converted into a small apartment on wheels, full of appliances and electro-mechanical devices, holding tanks and plumbing. Appliances and air conditioning units may need repairs/replacements when 10 years old.If you want to buy an old 70's or 80's rig intelligently, you'll need to know what problems to look for and/or get a professional truck mechanic and an RV repair shop to inspect for problems and give you independent estimate for parts and labor and approximately how long repairs will take. RV tires are a major cost item. They become unsafe and may fail with loss of control and damage to the underside after some four+ years of sitting mostly parked. Tires have date codes imprinted on one or both sides. If you buy an old rig and have plumbing, electrical, appliance, and many other DIY skills, tools, workspace, and time and help buying an old rig for $5000+ may be cost-effective. Older rigs may have carbureted engines and poor engine cooling systems that have problems pulling long grades and high altitudes on a hot day. If you must pay somebody for repairs, upgrades and maintenance, it is easy too invest more in repairs than the rig can re-sell for. Generally I would advise looking for a "perfect" three to five year old rig, approximately 27+ feet long with rear bedroom and RV queen sized for the older folks and you will have to be in good enough condition to climb into and out of the overhead bed and/or convertible sofa/dinette bed. Slides are nice but can have mechanical problems. Advise taking the whole bunch when looking at new and used rigs and simulate use of the bathroom, bedroom, watching TV, eating, and sleeping including set up and take down routines. After doing your homework, ask yourselves if you really want to get into RV'ing. It takes preparation, effort to drive, effort to set up and take down at campsites, and effort to clean the rig and put stuff away when you come home, ready for the next trip. There is also washing the rig, sanitizing water tanks, and regular engine maintenance. RV'ing is not for everyone, nor is boating, flying, or other expensive pastimes.

When/if you think you know what you want, maybe rent a similar rig with similar floorplan and try RV'ing before you buy. It's expensive but renting could help prevent your making an expensive mistake.

[Rainier]

I like to cover up My Trailer to help avoid Leaks. Roof maintenance is the key to maintaining an RV

[obgraham]

OP, go back to the home page of this RV.net web site. You'll find a ton of links to answer all your questions.

[DrewE]

A modern motorhome drivetrain, with decent routine maintenance, will easily go for a couple hundred thousand miles without needing replacement of major parts. The engines and transmissions are the same as are used in many many vans, delivery trucks, etc. Of course, without maintenance, they don't last as well.

Motorhome structures do leak, and constant (or at least periodic) maintenance is necessary to prevent it. I'm sure I'm not the only one who would like to see the house structures built using better techniques; car bodies have managed to stay more or less leak-free for decades without continuous sealing and maintenance, and there's no technical reason why a motorhome couldn't be built using similar techniques and have similar longevity—indeed, the Blue Bird Wanderlodges come to mind as an example along these lines. It would be more costly (as they were). Proper fiberglass construction can also be long-lasting and largely leak free with minimal maintenance; some small travel trailers in particular are like this and work quite nicely. I think the GMC motorhomes also were of fiberglass construction (rather than just fiberglass sheeting applied to plywood).

Finding a 20 year old motorhome which was stored outside and has never had any leaks whatsoever is probably not too likely. Finding one where any leaks were properly and promptly repaired, and where there is no significant structural damage, is more readily possible, and such a unit can give many more years of enjoyment with good maintenance. It is, of course, very easy to find old RVs with significant water damage.

I've heard it said that the difference between an RV and a boat is that in the RV the water can also leak out!

[falconbrother]

Engines and transmissions will last as long as they are serviced properly. Motorhomes so often get neglected. I'm anal about my 1990 model and drive it every two weeks all year and exercise the generator. I have the P30 Chassis, class A, 55,000 miles-ish, 454 V8 engine, turbo 400 transmission. When we travel I drive it easy. I'm in no drag race and I am pulling a Honda CRV behind me. I would disagree that the engine and transmission are on borrowed time. Neglect is the enemy.

I have had to fix roofs leaks from time to time. Rubber roofs are just that way. I hate a rubber roof but, that's the most common and they never ask me before they designed it. If you get to the leak as soon as you see any sign of trouble then you can head off major problems. Ignore it and that motorhome will be ruined in a very short period of time.

If I were in the market for a used motorhome, and I kinda am, I would look by priority. The basics are no leaks that haven't immediately been fixed, no mold period. If the unit has old tires the price better account for me having to spend lots of cash for a new set of tires. Good servicing history on the chassis. The generator needs to test out good. They tend to get neglected bad. I would be less worried about things like refrigerators, furnaces, etc.. They can be replaced if the price is right. Carpet can be replaced.

Check the master cylinder, feel the brakes, look for leaks. Stopping is important. I wouldn't worry as much about brands on used motorhomes. Winniebago does make a good motorhome but, there are plenty of others too. The chassis is always the same, Chevy, Dodge or Ford. The accessories are all the same Dometic, DuoTherm, Coleman, etc..

There's a lot of orphans out there (motorhome brands that no longer exist). I own an orphan: Mallard. Means jack squat to me.

Pay attention to your floor plan. In our class A the sleeping is limited. I'm looking for a class C with an overhead bunk and preferably a slide out. We have a lot of "basment" storage and big water tanks. I would like the same in a class C, if possible. We have a spare tire. Lots of modern motorhomes don't have a spare. These kinds of things are important down the road.

[ugh]

After reading it. Your main concern is the leaks. Any RV has many different places for it to leak. Too many people don't do maintenance on all caulks and roof. That is why they leak on older models or even on new models. Your best bet is to find one that was garage kept or well maintained unit. So to answer your questions, yes they all will leak like house if it was not maintained. Keep looking for one that was taken well care.

As for more information on class A and Class C, you are in the right spot. Ask any questions you may have, but start a new thread for each one. I would also recommend YouTube

Good luck and welcome to the forum.

[ugh]

Zwdb08 wrote:
My wife and I have want to try RVing, we plan to bring our granddaughter and mom, and grandpa...anyhow we can't help but wondering do all these things leak? If so why has this issue nto been fixed since the 70s? Better yet why do they sell for so much money and still have all these issues? We started out looking at older late 70s models,with way to many miles ...we then started researching a bit and started looking at 80s models , they started looking nicer not as dated but still quite a bit of miles and we started noticing leaky areas...so we jumped to 90s and early2000s now the price has more than doubled mileage is around the 50,000 mark , (which almost seems to be a moot point as most ads show new engines somewhere between 50,000 and 70,000, or new transmission or both, a lot of extra expense for an already expensive rig to begin with.) Then I was told try winnebago stay away from coachman ,so we find a 2001 mini winnie, 40,000 miles so about 15,000 from replacement I guess, looked very, very clean, well kept, an older couple had it..it was very clean side,like new,drove real nice.. but when checking the outside noticed soft spots and brown black waterseeping out for behind the corner seal in front passenger side and the water followed that seal...so again water damage.. so my wife has all but given up as we have looked at so many of then and all had water or mileage issues usually both...and yet when we looked at newer ones the price is steep for these leaking wheeled boxes...15,000 and up...so is this typical, are there any non leaking ones out there? Is it expensive to repair, should we even consider that mini winnie, or are borrowing trouble? My wife is too the point where she has unpacked our tent, it's 20 years old and doesn't nor ever has leaked and she says it was only around 100 bucks... so are RVers crazy, or is there some logic to spending small fortunes to camp aND enjoy the outdoors, knowing the beast will if it hasn't already leak, and the engine in Trans were on borrowed time right as it leaves the factory...that's not mentioning all the things you expect to fix fridge, stove, etc...man I'd say RV ers are a crazy bunch...and they keep buying them so something must out way these dated and poor designed junks of wheeled money pits... so anyhow my questions do all leak, are these side seam leaKS on the overhead bunch expensive to repair? What models are better if any, I was told winnebago were great, high qaulity but other than a higher price tag, they leak as well...so what is the benefit or true qaulity difference? Is a class A aNY better or worse? We plan to pull our jeep wrangler and just want something comfortable we like to go up the Northshore of minnesota in the fall, and like to explore, we weren't sure how big a rig would be to big for state forest campgrounds? Owe and we want to be dry when we get there ;)???? again thanks for the help...owe and is there a any recommendations , websites etc..where we can learn more about these beasts of leisure how to operate them,care for me etc... and God willing maybe will become a crazy RV er too...thanks Bill and kelly

Please use paragraphs! Its too hard to read something like this.