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roaddancer's avatar
roaddancer
Explorer
Nov 17, 2014

Fixing dry rot

I bought a used 1994 Jamboree Searcher 4 years ago. Recently, the dry rot within has become a problem. The lower seam above the driver and passenger doors has pulled apart due to dry rot. I have tried resetting the screws with longer ones and even having a pro take a crack at it ($350---lasted 3 months). My son says I have to get in and actually replace the dry rotted wood and suggests I approach it from the inside. I wonder if anyone else has dealt with this problem successfully.
I'd post a picture but I don't see that as an option.
  • CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealant) is the way to go if you are trying to restore wood.

    I had to completely rebuild my cabover due to rot. Here is a thread with a link to a fairly complete document detailing what I have done so far.

    Cabover rebuild thread

    Jose
  • Depending on how bad..

    This is used by boat builders.

    http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search_subCategory.do?categoryName=Wood%20Rot%20Repair%20and%20Restoration&category=609&refine=1&page=GRID

    Another one:
    http://www.rotdoctor.com

    http://www.pcepoxy.com/our-products/wood-repair/pc-rot-terminator.php

    Other info:
    http://www.class-c-motorhome-info-made-simple.com/water_damage.html
  • Query Rot Doctor on the net. I used it on my boat, good product
    BTC
  • TXiceman wrote:
    Dry rot is caused by water intrusion. First find the leak source.
    Ken


    The leak has been fixed. Except for the current problem, of course.
    Doug
  • Dry rot is caused by water intrusion. First find the leak source and then you have to replace the rotted wood.

    There is no sense in repairing the wood unless you repair the leak.

    Ken
  • I posted this pic earlier of another 1994 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher.

    The owner of this MH hasn't even used it yet. He lucked out, in that his side wings were OK, but the sleeperboard and front wall had to be replaced. If I remember correctly (I wasn't paying that much attention when the rebuild was first stated - didn't concern me)but the steel frames of his, where the sleeperboard was screwed up into,(where you're trying to put new screws), were rusted out badly. Angle iron had to be put along both sides and a piece of box tubing went across the front of the new sleeperboard. Chances are your sleeperboard/bunk is rotted and will have to be replaced - good luck.
  • There is a chemical; like a paint on material that will harden and strengthen dry rotted wood to be stronger than it was. I cant remember the name of it but, it is used in the boating industry to repair wooden boats. You may be able to get by for a while with that. Also I've had some success using fiberglass resin. I just mix the resin and hardener and saturate the wood with it. and let it dry. I made a repair on my cab over using this method and it's held up well to this point. I must say though it wasn't in a structurally important area like you discussing here.