Fixing water damage on the old Dodge (pics)
I got started on my summer project the last couple days. I found this thing on Craig's list for $100 and drove it home. It's a 78 Dodge Monaco 23' with a 440. Here's what it looked like when I brought...
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Spectramac, Just got wind of your, how should I put it,...."Project", "Task"", Effort".! Would any of those be putting it into the wright heading ???Like everyone, I as a late comer, hardly congratulate you on putting your will & wallet to the rebirth of the.... Dodge.
On my rebuild, some of the ideas I used you have already gone past. so if any of these ideas are of any help.
Tape joints between the solid type insulation & the wood framing. Seal out wind intrusion.
Tyvek, is a house wrap that lets water vapor out but is waterproof from the outside. Wrap sides/front & back just inside of outside aluminum skin.'.
Pella the window company, makes a 1/16"t. x 3"w. peal back very sticky rubberized waterproof tape, they use to seal vertical joints on new inserted window construction. Use this to cover the raw wood framing of the windows, lapping over slightly on & down the inside/outside skin. Sealing the raw wood framing opening from water penetration later, as the RV windows are sandwich together from both sides. No screw penetration threw Pellas membrane.
Sikaflex is a VERY< VERY good flexible sealant, comes in a large construction type tubes if you like. Very sticky, be prudent here.
On your overhang/upper birth. The 2x framing gets it strength from the 1/4" plywood skin on ether side. The wood 2x ack as a frame holding the ply. Plywood in a tear, is a bugger to do, even 1/4". Try putting in a vice and ripping straight down. Google "Torsion Box", as an example of strength. So, on your overhead make the inside and outside skin of this sides, to extend back into the side as far as possible per sheet. Lapping past the cat-a-lever vertical lower Do not just cut this size on front proportion only !!!
Monel staples are water resistant. Hard to find.
Lexan, the Polycarbonate Thermoplastic is a very tough material. It can be formed into a forever waterproof corner bracket (reinforcer) cut to length & width. By use of a small propane torch, lightly, repeatedly passed over bending edge & using a vice or two vice grips. Drills great, cut with a 60 tooth carbide blade. 1/4" thickness is what I settled for. STRONG>>WATERPROOF
Tidebond 3, is a very good water proof, & economical exterior glue. If clampt tight & allowed to cure.
Spray a waterproof sealant over wood before applying insulation. and over 1/4" skin. There is a water base polly., no odor, dry fast, easy water clean up, pretty good polly & wood sealant.
On the fancy corner trim that has that arc rubber insert. Use SS screws when installing, seal these screw holes, use Eternbond below on exposed joint before putting on the metal part of trim over.
Enough for now hope this can help you.........John
On my rebuild, some of the ideas I used you have already gone past. so if any of these ideas are of any help.
Tape joints between the solid type insulation & the wood framing. Seal out wind intrusion.
Tyvek, is a house wrap that lets water vapor out but is waterproof from the outside. Wrap sides/front & back just inside of outside aluminum skin.'.
Pella the window company, makes a 1/16"t. x 3"w. peal back very sticky rubberized waterproof tape, they use to seal vertical joints on new inserted window construction. Use this to cover the raw wood framing of the windows, lapping over slightly on & down the inside/outside skin. Sealing the raw wood framing opening from water penetration later, as the RV windows are sandwich together from both sides. No screw penetration threw Pellas membrane.
Sikaflex is a VERY< VERY good flexible sealant, comes in a large construction type tubes if you like. Very sticky, be prudent here.
On your overhang/upper birth. The 2x framing gets it strength from the 1/4" plywood skin on ether side. The wood 2x ack as a frame holding the ply. Plywood in a tear, is a bugger to do, even 1/4". Try putting in a vice and ripping straight down. Google "Torsion Box", as an example of strength. So, on your overhead make the inside and outside skin of this sides, to extend back into the side as far as possible per sheet. Lapping past the cat-a-lever vertical lower Do not just cut this size on front proportion only !!!
Monel staples are water resistant. Hard to find.
Lexan, the Polycarbonate Thermoplastic is a very tough material. It can be formed into a forever waterproof corner bracket (reinforcer) cut to length & width. By use of a small propane torch, lightly, repeatedly passed over bending edge & using a vice or two vice grips. Drills great, cut with a 60 tooth carbide blade. 1/4" thickness is what I settled for. STRONG>>WATERPROOF
Tidebond 3, is a very good water proof, & economical exterior glue. If clampt tight & allowed to cure.
Spray a waterproof sealant over wood before applying insulation. and over 1/4" skin. There is a water base polly., no odor, dry fast, easy water clean up, pretty good polly & wood sealant.
On the fancy corner trim that has that arc rubber insert. Use SS screws when installing, seal these screw holes, use Eternbond below on exposed joint before putting on the metal part of trim over.
Enough for now hope this can help you.........John
