Foggy Window Repair

I used a CRL product years ago. Use to be step by step by myself and others with pictures on how to repair your windows using the CRL window products. It is a double side close cell tape and a sealant to seal the window after you took it apart and clean it and put it back together. I can no long see it here so must have get dump over the years. This was back in mid 2005. I did all the windows in a Newmar and just saw it the other day and they still look good and are holding up. MY windows were 1/4 space between so I use the 1/4 tape.

superspacer

this is what I was looking for windows crl part number

Yes thanks I’m going with all crl products. I don’t believe my windows are etched just foggy. My windows are very hard to slide and was thinking of going with a 3/16 spacer.

mike brez wrote:
Yes thanks I’m going with all crl products. I don’t believe my windows are etched just foggy. My windows are very hard to slide and was thinking of going with a 3/16 spacer.

That will make them narrow if they have 1/4 now and will not work. You will get a lot of outside air coming around your windows. You have to measure them to get the correct product. The felt might need to be replaced if bad. Glass thickness us usually 1/8 thick.

The easy way to measure is open a window and if you have a raw edge, meaning no latching molding, then cut out the mastic and then you can measure the glass and the space between the glass.

I used a digital calibrator and measured a number of places and it’s .55 so just over a 1/2 and my glass is 1/8. My windows were re done before I purchased I’m wondering if they used the wrong spacer looks like they used 1/4 that got me thinking thats why the windows are so hard to open and maybe trying the 3/16. I seriously can only open my windows about six inches

mike brez wrote:
I used a digital calibrator and measured a number of places and it’s .55 so just over a 1/2 and my glass is 1/8. My windows were re done before I purchased I’m wondering if they used the wrong spacer looks like they used 1/4 that got me thinking thats why the windows are so hard to open and maybe trying the 3/16. I seriously can only open my windows about six inches

And I need to read better. 3/16 is less than the 1/4. We never did a Country Coach on the block. Measure the track then and see what you come up with. If too thin , then air leaks bad.

Look in the corner of the windows and it should say what company for the windows.

with your measurements of the window at 1/8 for glass and 1/4 for the spacer would be right if you have a 1/2 track. Some of the felt might have be bad. Can you lift up on the side window and it will slide up and pop out on the bottom.

Just went out and measure a 1/4 inch piece that was left over and its 0.207 in. So less than 1/4. You could look at other windows that were not done and measure them.

Windows are SE-GI I believe my small bathroom and kitchen windows are original and slide nice. These measure 0.46

mike brez wrote:
Windows are SE-GI I believe my small bathroom and kitchen windows are original and slide nice. These measure 0.46

Those were the same as my Newmar.

They were either screwed or rivets. I got new screws for the inside and riveted the frame back together.

When you take them apart, ensure you mark the inside glass and out side glass. Most have a film on the inside and it needs to be put back or you can see thru them.

I put the double side seal 3/8 indent on the glass so the sealant was that depth from the seal back to the glass edge. We used a 4x4 board with a 90 degree set up on one corner to square the glass when you put it back together. Ensure you really clean the inside and get some cotton gloves when you handle them or finger prints will be there.

I used a Weller solder gun with a flat tip. Heat up the spot and have a needle nose plyers and as you slower go, pull out string or cable that is in the mastic. Once you have that out then heat up and slide a wood shims gentle between the pane as you go around the glass. Once you have gone all the way around then you should be able to get the glass apart. The first one is the slow one. When you put in the shims you will see the glass seperate from the mastic. Go easy

Once apart single edge razor blades and clean them up really well. Just don't take off the tape or what every you use to mark the outside and inside pane.

Once clean and dry, make you a indent guide for the tape to go around the glass. What we use had a silver edge and it goes down toward the mastic. If not you will see it between the panes when you put it back together.

Once you get the spacer on one pane ensure you have a square edge and aligh both panes. Do not pull the blue/green tape off the top edge of the space. Fix it so you can get hold of it and pull out as you go around the glass. press down all the way around the spacer area, DO NOt PUT pressure out in the windows.

Now open your sealant and start in a spot and go around the window assy you just put back together. Have some painters tape and put all the way around the sealant and mash down as you go. Let dry and when it ready you trim off the sealant and slide the glass back inside the frame. Ensure you got the right side in/out. I used the sealant to glue the lock end back onto the glass end.

Use good sealant back on the RV outside and have someone hold it as you shim it up on the bottom and sides inside. Start at the top and put a screw in one top corner and side corner, just a little to hold since you have shims down below you have to gentle put this back together. I cut off a couple shims for the bottom and side bottom so it stayed as I put the screws back in the inside frame.

If you need anything yell. We did maybe a dozen on our block and some other friends. We went slow and never broke one pane. Send me a picture of anything you need help with at justforyu@msn.com

Gene

Thanks Gene I ordered everything yesterday won’t be getting it until end of December
I went with the 3/16x1/4 spacer