Ford Engine on Class C loses power when accelerating

Did the BUMP kick something up that dented or crushed part of your exhaust system? Hit the Catalytic Converter hard enough to fracture the monolithic catalytic material? Send rust flakes into the Muffler where maybe it couldn't get out? Or if your Tailpipe has a Screen across the outlet?
Not about Catalyst - Fords (at least used to) have a monolith. Picture a full box of soda straws. Even better, those little hollow coffee stirrers. When the box is full, all of those little passages line up, and air (exhaust in a catalyst) can easily flow through. The exposed surface of the monolith works chemical wonders on the dirty exhaust and it come out politically correct. But break the catalyst into chunks. Small pieces will escape and possibly clog something else. But large pieces can get crosswise to the outlet. Now the exhaust is trying to get past what might as well be cracked stone in there at random.

If exhaust IS blocked, engine will produce LESS power with MORE throttle. Kick it down into passing gear and it'll rev up but the coach will slow down.

Thank you everyone. I will print and take to the shop today. Keep your fingers crossed for me.

Fuel filter change would be about 5 minutes in a shop environment, somebody who'd done one before. Just be sure the new filter is a proper replacement. You MAY have the upper filter in this picture, the larger diameter one.



If you do, it'll have one of those white clips (shown on left end of both filters) retaining each end. The problem comes in if that upper filter gets used in place of the lower one. The small diameter filter has different couplings. No clip, uses a release tool, pictured on the right end of both filters. You can see where there's no room to "work" the tool on the upper (old style, larger diameter, with clips) filter. Somebody sticks an old style into a new style application and it works. Only just about impossible to replace next time because the release tool won't get at it.

If they replace the filter, ask to see it. Once it dries out, it should be fairly easy to blow through. A new one blows easily. A clogged one will turn you red in the face.

I'm kinda with Fred.... Considering the symptoms started after a bump in the road, a problem internal to the distributor could cause this. You symptoms fit a distributor that has gone retarded. I mean that in the literal definition of the word. It sounds like spark is no longer advancing.

I am assuming they have plugged in live shop computer to verify the signals from each of the necessary sensors? Has a cylinder balance test been done? Has the A/F ratio be verified?

At this point, it sounds like the shop is just throwing parts at it, and some of the parts changed should not affect drivability like you describe.

Hi,

Loss of power is normally indicating a blocked fuel filter. Yes old gas, or water in the gas can cause the same problems. What year is the RV? Pre-87 would be a carburetor problem.

Also try rebuilding the distributor. A broken spring or worn vacuum advance will reduce power greatly. Not related to the current problem, it will increase your overall power and MPG though. I was very happy once my distributor was rebuilt by a place called Clutches Unlimited in Midway City CA.

Good luck!

Fred.

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I would have them check the fuel pressure. A failing fuel pump may be behind the problem.

sounds like a little water in the gas ,use a can of sea foam drive it about five miles let sit few hours then redrive .