Ford F53 460 powered fan clutch options?

Rocket9k wrote:
Now that I have replaced the plugged radiator it will run pretty cool between 190-210. The only time I can get it higher than that is if I'm in 3rd gear climbing an incline or out of overdrive going down the highway at 65-70. I have an electric fan mounted on the front of my condenser which helps slightly. It pretty much just keeps A/C temps down.

Richard, thanks for the info. The Murray 2799 is a reboxed Hayden 2799, which I have already tried. It ran nearly constantly and the thermostat was in a tug of war with it trying to keep the engine temp up. I'm assuming yours does not operate this way? Also, before your OEM one failed, when did it kick on and off, at what temp scale, and how did it behave when it did fail?

My temp gauge is not calibrated in numbers. It just says normal across the top of the gauge. The needle starts at the far left when cold and advances to the "O" when it reaches normal operating temperature (197°). If all is working correctly the fan cuts in and out and the gauge needle never moves. When my OEM clutch failed, it just quit engaging. I pulled into a rest stop, unhooked the car and found a parts house (Oreilly). Change the clutch in the rest stop.
I have the original radiator core with replacement brass end tanks. The OEM radiator core has 20 fins per inch. Most replacement radiators only have 15 fins per inch and will not radiate enough concentrated heat to operate the fan clutch properly. When I had the 15 fins per inch replacement radiator in my MH the temp gauge would rise to what I considered to be about 230-240 before the fan clutch would kick in. With the OEM core the gauge doesn't move and the clutch kicks in and out as it should.
I can run up the side of the Rocky Mountains in the middle of summer, moving 20,500 lbs with my 460/528 stroker engine and not have any heat problem. Ford got it right.