From Large TT to Class C

[Hemling]

Especially those of you who have gone from large (35+) TT to a Class C, what pros and cons can you share? My situation is that we currently have a large TT (38' hitch to spare) behind a Ford Excursion. Longer than a semi trailer on the road. Gas powered, so REALLY hard to find a gas station sometimes. Just not many that cater to a massive rig like mine. I've literally dropped the trailer in a WalMart and set the wife and kids loose while I gas up and come back to hitch back up. I'm planning on renting RVs in the 32+ range before I buy, because I think we need to stay with at least that amount of space, but what are your impressions about accessibility with a medium to large class C compared to a setup like my current one? I have no diesel experience at all, not opposed to them, but I find myself wishing I'd found a diesel X just for the ease of using diesel pumps at truck stops. I can't count the number of times I've stopped at a really nice looking station only to find the gas pumps very tight and the diesel pull throughs almost unoccupied. Most Class C RVs I've seen are gas. Anyone gone the class C route from a large TT and wished they hadn't? In 3-5 years we are probably making a change, just seeing what impressions are out there.

[mbutts]

We went from a 32' TT + 24' F-350 (crew cab, long bed). While we find the 32' class C we now have is SUPER easy to drive, back into sites, and set up/break camp, it does have a shortcoming. Riding as a passenger in the back in the dinette or the sofa is not as comfortable as riding in the backseat of the pick up. You're either in the meh cushioning of the meh dinette or sitting sideways on the couch.

In the time we've had the C, both kids have moved out and it's just the tow of us with the dog. If you have a carload in the back of X, you may want to reconsider getting a C.

[bobndot]

We had a 37'TT, we sold the TT's because of the way we use an rv. Getting into fuel stops will be a lot easier than towing a 35ft TT. I was about 57' with my rig . If you plan to tow a car behind the rv then you need to research that. You cant back up when using a tow bar all four down.

Because of a recent thread posted here and its fresh in my mind I will mention that things tend to rattle inside rvs while bouncing down the highway, expect to hear more noise inside the MH that you never hear towing a TT. It will take some time to experiment to quiet things down using foam etc. I'm just trying to limit any negative surprises making this move.

We use our gasser class 'c' all year long for day trips. Its been a life saver for us while we stay home during covid. We use it to take local dinner drives and park in various parks to cook and eat dinner while enjoying nature . It breaks up the monotony of staying home.

I like the class 'C' over the class 'A' because I wanted a short 24 ft rv and I have a drivers door, its just easier to gas up etc. I also like having the engine in front of me. I'm not sure in the entry level class A's how secure those front ends really are. I can see it being more beefy on a more expensive chassis but we are talking a lot more money.
The v-10 in the 'A' has more power than the v-10 in the 'C' . Most 'A' MH's now have a drop down bed above the front seats and most all 'A' seats swivel as opposed to some 'C' MH's that do not. Ford is coming out with a new motor but I would wait to see its track record before plopping any money into that.


I found the TT and truck was easier and less expensive to maintain because I could take my truck to any garage while on the road or my own shop where I can fit it through the door and onto my lift. I was able to perform a lot of things myself. In a MH you will be more restricted to find a shop large enough to accommodate your size rig at the same time being more expensive hourly.
Truck shops seem to be more oriented to the commercial account holders that are dropping $100k plus annually for maintaining their fleet. In my experience, they viewed rv's as vacation toys not priority vehicles to make a living.
I got pushed onto the back burner and ended up waiting, so its going depend on each individual shop owner how he views it.

A long overhang can 'sometimes' drag on a sloped driveway and some local street intersections that involve hills and slopes.
It is not that common that it happens but worth the mentioning. Once you drive it, you will get a feel for things and learn if its looks iffy, take it slow. My plumbing valves are high tucked inside a compartment unlike a TT where they hang down.
I have welded protection tabs on my hitch and those tabs will scrape which protects my hitch . Those triangular tabs hang down about 1.5" and that's my lowest point. I will hear it drag before I can do any damage to the rv. Its my alarm system.
I can pull head first into my home driveway with 1/2" clearance but can't back in without scraping and destroying my sidewalk where it meets my driveway apron. I also scrape when leaving one the dump stations where I always camp, I have to take it on an angle all the time. Sometimes a gas station or parking lot driveway apron will scrape but you will learn to angle your approach and it becomes second nature where you will do it automatically.
Make sure you can clear your home driveway. Can't beat a nice flat driveway entrance.

I towed using a Ford diesel for over 100k and towed using a gasser. Im 50/50 about which was better .
If you are planning to drive a rig hundreds of thousands of miles towing or hauling a lot of weight or do a lot of western state driving through the mountains then a diesel would make better sense for longevity and torque for hills.
I found the diesel was more expensive to maintain and finding a good experienced diesel mechanic was more of an issue.

[mleekamp]

We went from several long TT's to a C like you. Fuel stops, both TT and C, are and can be challenging. We too used a gas truck to tow our TT. Here are the pros and cons from our viewpoint:

Pros:
--with onboard generator, we can take the dogs and do an hour or 2 at a museum or restaurant, and leave the AC on.
-- don't always need a dinghy (spare car). Sometimes we just go to state parks an hour or 2 away and don't need to hook up the Jeep behind us.
--We've went to state parks that have no camping, but wildlife (bison roaming the prairie at Wildlife Prairie park in IL)...and our C is great to take for AC and rest/lunch locations.
--hydraulic leveling; had it installed on ours and it works great

CONS:
--when pulling our Jeep, if I need to back up, I HAVE TO UNHOOK. You can't back up with a car/jeep out back. perfect straight is one thing, but plan your turns and entrances/exits (just like with a trailer)
--loss of floorplan space. our TT had HUGE amounts of space ... the C has no bunks, but the overhead bunk and tables to turn to beds...which is fine but some kids love "their own space"
--another engine/trans to take care of...that you most likely won't drive a lot. Plus the genset. We use as much as we can, non-ethonal fuel to avoid issues when sitting

[Hemling]

That's great advice - I've seen a ton of class Cs in campsites and so many have HUGE rear overhangs. I have to think they are a pain to drive / park.

[pianotuna]

Make sure wheel base to length ratio is near to 56%. 50% works just barely but is far more tiring to drive. Below 50% is a night mare to drive.

If you really need 32 feet--I'd consider a small Class A, or a C that has had the wheel base lengthened.