full wall slideout issue - maybe

[willald]

Soo, last weekend, we went camping with some friends up in the mountains. Site we got to was not very level, really had to work the jacks, blocks to get the RV level. Tried to open the (full wall) slide out, it makes some strange noises, seems like its grinding on something, but does go out, although doesn't seem like it will go all the way out - In back, its all the way out, flush, but in front, the top corner isn't all the way out, its lacking about 3/4" and that corner will go no further out.

Anyway, doesn't seem like its an issue, not feeling any cold air or seeing any daylight from the top front corner that didn't appear to go all the way out, so we decide to leave it out, go on with camping trip and not worry about it until we get back. Was lot of wind, and rain one day (Friday), and we were watching the slide edges real close to see if any rain leaked in (or wind). There was neither, all was good. Stayed very warm inside, too (was cold that weekend in the mountains). Slideout went back in just fine the day we left to come home.

Soooo, took it to RV dealer yesterday to have it checked out. Today they call me, say there is absolutely nothing wrong with the slideout, it is working just fine. Indeed, I just checked it out in person, and it is working just fine now, like new. All they did, was lube the various parts (lock arms, rack/pinion gear, etc). We are left wondering what went wrong when we were out in the mountains last weekend, that is just fine now.

We have used this rig (Newmar Baystar, see signature) extensively in the 2 years we've owned it. We use it nearly year round, average about 9 or 10 trips a year. It has never sat for more than a month or so between trips. Have had almost zero issues with it up until this (and not even sure this counts as an 'issue').

I do remember that I had a hard time getting the rig leveled this last trip, was in a hurry to do such and may have not done a very good job leveling it. Wondering if that is all it was that caused this. I do know that full wall slideouts like this can be a bit finicky about getting things level before they are operated.

Thoughts? Should I be worried, or just chalk this up to, 'Relax, and just do a better job of leveling next time'?

[Chum_lee]

To get an idea of how much frames actually bend when stressed, go to any shop with a car up on a lift and being supported by the frame. (all wheels hanging off the ground) Open the drivers door and then try to close it. Chances are it won't feel/sound right. It may not even open/close with the wheels in the air.

Chum lee

[willald]

wildtoad wrote:
Sorry about the formatting.


72185 County Rd 3 Newmar Corporation 866.290.5371 Nappanee, IN 46550 Fax 574.773.2007
Product Information Bulletin
Date Issued
01/29/15
PIB #
Full-wall Slide-out 38 Operation
YEAR /
BRAND / TYPE
/ MODEL #
The intent of this Product Information Bulletin is to inform of the recommended operating procedure for all Newmar Product with full-wall slide-outs.
Product Information
In the past, Newmar has recommended leveling the coach prior to deploying the slide-outs. Although this is still the recommendation for coaches without full wall slide-outs, Newmar makes the following recommendation for coaches equipped with a full wall slide-out.
PLEASE REVIEW THIS RECOMMENDED PROCEDURE:
Motorhomes, as all vehicles, flex in travel. Flexing may be different due to terrain and the coach’s fulcrums (resting on tires or jacks). This is normally not an issue for coaches without a full wall slide-out. Although the jacks and the slide-out mechanism are both welded to the chassis frame, with a full wall slide-out, you have a large box (the slide), inside another large box (the coach) and they both flex, especially the coach. As the coach flexes, this movement is more noticeable in the outside reveal due to the wider slide-out.
Additional care should be taken once the coach is parked. Before operating the full wall slide-out, one should walk around the driver’s side and look at the “reveal” or “gap” of the two vertical wall trims around the full wall slide-out to make sure there is plenty of clearance so the trim will not rub when running the slide-out to the out position. If the gap looks good then the slide out can be operated. If the gap is tight in one or more places, try leveling the coach to see if that corrects it, then operate the slide out. If at any time there is cause for concern, do not operate the slide-out and call Newmar Customer Service.
PLEASE NOTE: Most often the gap will look best when sitting on the tires and not the jacks.
If you have any questions regarding this P.I.B., please contact a Warranty Service Representative at Newmar Corpo

Thank you, Tom, this is very, very helpful. If I'd known this, would probably never have had this problem.

I'll bet the gap or 'reveal' in our case after I did a not-so-good job of leveling last weekend, was very tight.

Will definitely keep this in mind going forward.

[wildtoad]

Sorry about the formatting.


72185 County Rd 3 Newmar Corporation 866.290.5371 Nappanee, IN 46550 Fax 574.773.2007
Product Information Bulletin
Date Issued
01/29/15
PIB #
Full-wall Slide-out 38 Operation
YEAR /
BRAND / TYPE
/ MODEL #
The intent of this Product Information Bulletin is to inform of the recommended operating procedure for all Newmar Product with full-wall slide-outs.
Product Information
In the past, Newmar has recommended leveling the coach prior to deploying the slide-outs. Although this is still the recommendation for coaches without full wall slide-outs, Newmar makes the following recommendation for coaches equipped with a full wall slide-out.
PLEASE REVIEW THIS RECOMMENDED PROCEDURE:
Motorhomes, as all vehicles, flex in travel. Flexing may be different due to terrain and the coach’s fulcrums (resting on tires or jacks). This is normally not an issue for coaches without a full wall slide-out. Although the jacks and the slide-out mechanism are both welded to the chassis frame, with a full wall slide-out, you have a large box (the slide), inside another large box (the coach) and they both flex, especially the coach. As the coach flexes, this movement is more noticeable in the outside reveal due to the wider slide-out.
Additional care should be taken once the coach is parked. Before operating the full wall slide-out, one should walk around the driver’s side and look at the “reveal” or “gap” of the two vertical wall trims around the full wall slide-out to make sure there is plenty of clearance so the trim will not rub when running the slide-out to the out position. If the gap looks good then the slide out can be operated. If the gap is tight in one or more places, try leveling the coach to see if that corrects it, then operate the slide out. If at any time there is cause for concern, do not operate the slide-out and call Newmar Customer Service.
PLEASE NOTE: Most often the gap will look best when sitting on the tires and not the jacks.
If you have any questions regarding this P.I.B., please contact a Warranty Service Representative at Newmar Corpo

[wildtoad]

Think of the slide as a small box inside another box (the mh). It is essential that a gap exists between the inner box and the outer box. Newmar only calls for you to check the gap on the sides of the two boxes. This is more likely to be an issue with FWS’s due to the length of the slide. It a good practice review all slides.

[ScottG]

I think the opening got a little racked and pinched the slide. Now that everything is relaxed, it isn't pinching anymore.

[willald]

Horsedoc wrote:
Full wall slide have duel motors?
I might check and see that both drive motors and screws are synced and balanced.

Yes, dual motors. Dealer checked that, and all is good there.

Opnspaces has a good point. Could the entire structure be in a bind when this happened??

Yeah, I think thats what it was. Once got off that site, brought jacks up, all is good. Definitely a lesson learned from this, like said in the previous posts.

[willald]

wildtoad wrote:
Newmar has the strongest slide system in the industry. They do have some “rules” for their slide system. First before extending slides check the vertical gap between the slide and the mh. This is called the reveal. If there is a gap (on BOTH sides), extend slides, otherwise don’t. Newmar states that most of the time (perhaps not in op’s case) the gap will be best BEFORE leveling. They don’t say when to extend, before or after leveling, just make sure you have a gap.

I have leveled mine just to find no gap or a too close for comfort gap and de-leveled to find the gaps were good. Extended the slides, then leveled. Make sure you reverse the process in the same order.

All the twisting to the frame and slide from the leveling probably resulted in the slide not being square, but not enough to cause damage. You were indeed lucky.

Thank you, Tom, this is really good info. I agree, the twisting is why the slideout wouldn't go all the way out, but fortunately didn't twist things enough to do any damage, so we are fine.

Yes, Newmar has an awesome, very stout slide mechanism, was one of the things that sold us on Newmar.

I had not heard, read that about the vertical gap thing to check for with the slideout. What exactly is meant by vertical gap between MH and slideout? Do you mean, the gap between bottom of slideout floor and MH floor?

[willald]

Lantley wrote:
I would assume rig was not quite level as a result the slideout was somewhat racked and would not extend fully. Once the rig is leveled properly the issue goes away.

Yeah, I think this pretty well sums up what happened. Crazy thing is we've been camping with this particular rig a LOT for over 2 years, sometimes in very remote, unlevel (to put it mildly) campsites, and this was never an issue until now.

The takeaway is avoid the really unlevel spots when possible. Pull up on boards to get closer to level or do whatever you can if you encounter a really unlevel site. Know that the slideout will not extend properly on a really unlevel site.

Agreed, thats definitely the lesson learned from this.

I've found over the years, that the best sites with the best views, access, etc. are usually the ones that are the most unlevel. Sooo, I carry a lot of blocks for leveling, and usually don't mind using them and taking the time to get it leveled even on the most unlevel sites (been on sites muuuuuch worse than the one we were on this last weekend). This was one time, though, I got lazy and in a hurry, and paid the price, haha. Hopefully won't happen again.

Not quite the same but I don't like it when the auto level function raises my 5'ers wheels off the ground. I do what I can to avoid the wheel raising scenario
when I recognize a site is way out of level

I am the same way, Lantley! I will not let a wheel get off the ground. If site is that unlevel, I break out the big, long blocks I built for driving wheels up on, and will drive whichever side is low up onto the blocks. Then, will stack several blocks under each of the jacks so the jacks don't have to extend as far, either. I've found that the more blocks you use and the less you extend your jacks, generally the more stable things are inside.

Seen people lift wheels off the ground all the time, and I imagine the jacks will handle it and won't hurt anything. However, I don't like the lateral stability you lose when you do that. The tires need to be on the ground, to help with lateral stability.

Fortunately, Lantley, where we are going next week up in your neck of the woods, the site is very level (and beautiful!), so won't be a problem. Looking forward to meeting up with you. 🙂

Will

[way2roll]

wildtoad wrote:
As a follow up, you don’t say what year BayStar. Some years had issues with the slide motor bolts coming loose. I don’t think this caused your slide issue, just something to check from time to time.

Per his signature: 2021 Newmar Baystar 3014

[wildtoad]

As a follow up, you don’t say what year BayStar. Some years had issues with the slide motor bolts coming loose. I don’t think this caused your slide issue, just something to check from time to time.

[wildtoad]

Newmar has the strongest slide system in the industry. They do have some “rules” for their slide system. First before extending slides check the vertical gap between the slide and the mh. This is called the reveal. If there is a gap (on BOTH sides), extend slides, otherwise don’t. Newmar states that most of the time (perhaps not in op’s case) the gap will be best BEFORE leveling. They don’t say when to extend, before or after leveling, just make sure you have a gap.

I have leveled mine just to find no gap or a too close for comfort gap and de-leveled to find the gaps were good. Extended the slides, then leveled. Make sure you reverse the process in the same order.

All the twisting to the frame and slide from the leveling probably resulted in the slide not being square, but not enough to cause damage. You were indeed lucky.

[Nv_Guy]

As been said, your coach was "racked", try not to do that in the future. It doesn't take a lot to rack or twist an RV & they generally spring back into square once the twist is released.

[Lantley]

I would assume rig was not quite level as a result the slideout was somewhat racked and would not extend fully. Once the rig is leveled properly the issue goes away.
The takeaway is avoid the really unlevel spots when possible. Pull up on boards to get closer to level or do whatever you can if you encounter a really unlevel site. Know that the slideout will not extend properly on a really unlevel site.

Not quite the same but I don't like it when the auto level function raises my 5'ers wheels off the ground. I do what I can to avoid the wheel raising scenario
when I recognize a site is way out of level

[Horsedoc]

Full wall slide have duel motors?
I might check and see that both drive motors and screws are synced and balanced.
Opnspaces has a good point. Could the entire structure be in a bind when this happened??