Good morning, made the switch from class c to class a. Just bought a 2001 Georgetown 30 footer. On the way home the auto park light turn on and started leaking oil, make it ok. After reading all problems with the brake system (did my homework after I bought it, big mistake). All I wanted was to be on a Chevy chassis. I know me as I will be driving this thing would always be on my mind and I won't enjoy the trip.I want to put a manual brake, I have spoken to some guys at MILL supply, they have parts for the Chevy workhorse square trucks like the bread trucks and gave me some part numbers. Is there anyone out there that can help me with this, how to install it, have they done it. Am to the point that and thinking of selling it and going back to class c, but I really like this class a. Sorry for the long post. And thank u in adva

Know that Brazell's RV Performance Center near Centralia, Washington has had a fix for this for a long time. They specialized in Workhorse Chassis for years and have now added more to their line. Don't know if they can assist with parts etc for a do it yourselfer. Good luck!

Thank u I will give them a call. Am holding off on the remodeling inside. This has me nervous

As you collect the information, please post-- a very good alternative to the Auto-park system.

Mako1949 wrote:Good morning, made the switch from class c to class a. Just bought a 2001 Georgetown 30 footer. On the way home the auto park light turn on and started leaking oil, make it ok. After reading all problems with the brake system (did my homework after I bought it, big mistake). All I wanted was to be on a Chevy chassis. I know me as I will be driving this thing would always be on my mind and I won't enjoy the trip.I want to put a manual brake, I have spoken to some guys at MILL supply, they have parts for the Chevy workhorse square trucks like the bread trucks and gave me some part numbers. Is there anyone out there that can help me with this, how to install it, have they done it. Am to the point that and thinking of selling it and going back to class c, but I really like this class a. Sorry for the long post. And thank u in advaWhy not just fix the darn thing, like you would with anything else that broke. I had one for 9rs in an 18yr old coach and yes, I did fix it now and then, but it's not all that bad a system, once you understand it and carry a few spare parts on board.There's and AP guru, that goes by the handle of the oldusedbear, that will help you along and doesn't charge a cent. He will also rebuild your actuator if needed for a paltry sum. The Chevy engine in your year is probably the best bet and does surprise me that it even has AP, since a 30ft coach can't be over 15K lbs. Double check if it might have a parking pawl gear and if so, I would then not hesitate in installing a brake lever.Will the coach hold itself on a slight grade with the way it is now?

I went to their site and it's interesting the system they have. It's replacing it with air brakes. It comes out to $1,300 plus delivery and installation. Am looking for something more simple and less expensive. Any help would really b appreciated

Help. Converting Auto park Brake to manual lever

tropical36
Explorer
May 17, 2017
Mako1949 wrote:
It had oil and I top it off. Also replaced the green rotten switch

Just a thought and if your light is still on...
There's an over travel alarm of the adjustment process, as well, but thinking that it beeps, as well. Not sure however and have never seen one come on.
Again, contact Roger and save yourself a lot of pain.
Mako1949
Explorer
May 17, 2017
It had oil and I top it off. Also replaced the green rotten switch
cjd10
Explorer
May 17, 2017
Mako1949 wrote:
The gray switch was missing a piece, replaced it and no change, then replace the green switch with a new one and no change. No more oil leak but the light still one. Brakes are working fine but light is one. Is there a reset or something that I need to do.

Did you add fluid?
Theres a reason that green switched is nicknamed "Rotton Green Switch"
My 98 Georgetown had the autopark system. That green switch would start leaking like clockwork every 24 months.
fyrflie
Explorer III
May 17, 2017
Mako1949 wrote:
I was hoping that replacing the broken switch would take care of my problem guess am going to have to make that call.

Even if the switch had fixed the problem, you really need to talk to roger.
Once educated about the system, you will see that this system is fairly simple and further prepare you for any other issues you may face down the road.

I have owned my MH now for 16 years, and have only replaced each switch one time.
Mako1949
Explorer
May 17, 2017
I was hoping that replacing the broken switch would take care of my problem guess am going to have to make that call.
Jim
Explorer
May 16, 2017
Mako1949 wrote:
The gray switch was missing a piece, replaced it and no change, then replace the green switch with a new one and no change. No more oil leak but the light still one. Brakes are working fine but light is one. Is there a reset or something that I need to do.

Did you contact Roger (Oldusedbear) at the link shown on page one? He use to take phone calls too.
Mako1949
Explorer
May 16, 2017
The gray switch was missing a piece, replaced it and no change, then replace the green switch with a new one and no change. No more oil leak but the light still one. Brakes are working fine but light is one. Is there a reset or something that I need to do.
Mako1949
Explorer
May 16, 2017
Thank u for the tip, will be aware of it.
tropical36
Explorer
May 16, 2017
Mako1949 wrote:
I think the gray switch is broken and is leaking thru there. I have the switch allready also bought another grs. Will post with updates. Going to give this a shot but not happy at all. The first time that give me any problems am going with the manual level. Have though of selling it also, but I really like it and with kids in college don't have the money left over to go with a newer one

Keep in mind, that there are still a ton of them out there on the road and will continue to be for years to come. Once you get it right, it should serve you reasonably well. Just carry a green sw. on board at all times and with changing it out, keep the old one for a on the road spare and if it's still good, of course.
Here's some info for you and when changing out the green sw. Be sure to hold the large brass hex head if it wants to turn out. This is not part of the sw. body and is NOT TO BE REMOVED under any circumstances that are being put forth here.
With the gray sw. leaking, the brake should still be working and as long as you're full of fluid. However if the sw. has gone bad, as well and most likely, then the AP light will be on. Now if the gray sw. leads should short to ground, then it will blow the fuse, killing power to the system and lock up the brake.
John_Wayne
Explorer II
May 16, 2017
Years ago I read an article I think on this site on how to do the manual conversion had the parts list and all. So the info is out there you just need to find it. Sorry I can't help more.